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Projects 26 T Roadster Pick Up build Thread

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Blue One, Mar 27, 2010.

  1. Square
    Joined: Sep 29, 2008
    Posts: 61

    Square
    Member
    from Canada

    Nice build! Subscribed
     
  2. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,462

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Another update. I spent a pile more hours and got the bones fabbed to the point where they are pretty much done.

    In mocking up the front axle and spring I found that my spring perches were 31 1/2" apart, and what I really need for a 46 " axle is 32 1/4".

    I also decided to switch to a mono leaf after talking to the fellows down at the shop.

    It will be easier to set where the spring sits for ride height as you can move it up and down.

    Funny how when you search you can't find that kind of info (measurements for location of spring perches etc. ), I went down to the local rod shop and took a tape to an assembled front end.

    To get the shackles right you need the spring perches to be the right width ,go figure :D

    So I needed to get the perches out to the proper width. The solution was to mill a 2" X 3" X 3/8" deep pocket into the inside of the bones for the perch. If you recall pictures above you will remember I have solid steel in there so no problem.

    I then used an assortment of exhaust tubing and conduit for the tubes and bored holes through the bones and welded in the tubing for a lightening hole look.

    It is unbelievable how many hours I have in these things,you are looking at somewhere around 50 hours of work (FUN) so far.

    So it goes when you fab from an idea in your head and totally from scratch :)

    Pics below.
    bones 002.JPG bones 001.JPG
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2018
    volvobrynk likes this.
  3. Boones
    Joined: Mar 4, 2001
    Posts: 9,691

    Boones
    Member
    from Kent, Wa
    1. Northwest HAMBers

    I just found this post. I am building a 27.. and used 6x2 rails that I tapered down to 3"

    [​IMG]

    I cut the rear off my old body (it was cobbled together) to stretch it some.
    [​IMG]

    it seems we are thinking along similar ideas...
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2010
  4. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,462

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Mine are also tapered down to 3" and as you can see I also put in the 32 style reveals.
     
  5. Boones
    Joined: Mar 4, 2001
    Posts: 9,691

    Boones
    Member
    from Kent, Wa
    1. Northwest HAMBers

    I decided to not do the reveal as i figure it would cause to much warpage and I am not building this on a steel table to hold it together. this weekend i will be finishing up the rear of my frame now that I have stretched the body (did that last night).

    I look forward to seeing your progress. you are doing alot more detail then I am.. your talents exceed mine
     
  6. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,462

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    A bump up for the daytime crowd, updated pictures of the wishbones above. :)
     
  7. t-rod
    Joined: Feb 7, 2009
    Posts: 423

    t-rod
    Member

    Those bones are amazing! Excellent work!
     
    Doctorterry likes this.
  8. crotex
    Joined: Apr 19, 2010
    Posts: 561

    crotex
    BANNED
    from cuero, tx

    looks really cool so far. Keep the pics coming.
     
  9. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,462

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Another update, I decided to drill my axle today. (46 " axle) The scene of the crime is my garage and metal fab table where I clamped the axle down .

    I used a technique that has been posted here before to find the center and lay out the holes.

    My weapon of choice was a Holemaker magnetic based drill and the Jancy Slugger cutters.

    The Holemaker drill uses a set of Slugger annular drills, decription follows :

    "With their unique centerfree design, Slugger annular cutters cut only the periphery of the hole, ejecting the remaining center as a slug. These cutters produce reamed quality, burr-free holes in one operation, eliminating costly pilot holes and step drilling. Slugger cutters reduce torque and horsepower requirements by only cutting the periphery of the hole using the proper tooth geometry."

    I laid out and drilled 13 - 1 1/16" diameter holes on 2 1/2" centers with one hole dead center of the axle.

    With this equipment the holes come out very nice, like they were machined with no further cleanup needed.

    I'll post pictures below.
    Larry.
    Axle drilling 001.JPG Axle drilling 002.JPG Axle drilling 003.JPG Axle drilling 004.JPG Axle drilling 005.JPG Axle drilling 007.JPG Axle drilling 010.JPG Axle drilling 012.JPG Axle drilling 016.JPG Axle drilling 014.JPG Axle drilling 008.JPG
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2018
    volvobrynk likes this.
  10. gnichols
    Joined: Mar 6, 2008
    Posts: 11,349

    gnichols
    Member
    from Tampa, FL

    Nice job. Super clean holes! Gary
     
  11. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,462

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    One more step along the way :)

    After drilling the axle I cut some 3/4" tubing and notched the heads of the 3/4" grade 8 bolts I am using for spring perches. A little work with the TIG and I had some pretty spring perches.

    I ended up making a 3/16" plate for each side which sits in the wishbone relief pocket under the spring perch. The lower front shock mounts will go on this plate just above the spring perch later on.

    After that I assembled everything I built the rear wishbone mounts using a couple pieces of 1 1/4" pipe with plates and nuts welded inside them (5/8"). They go through the frame and stick out about 1/2" past the frame on the outside and have a slight angle to keep the heim relatively straight.

    The rear mounts need finish welding with the TIG and are just tacked in.

    Here are a few pictures.
    front suspension 002.JPG front suspension 003.JPG front suspension 004.JPG front suspension 005.JPG
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2018
    Lil'Alb and volvobrynk like this.
  12. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,462

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Another bump for the daytime crowd :) Update above ^ :D
     
  13. Codeman
    Joined: Jan 25, 2007
    Posts: 317

    Codeman
    Member
    from SE Mo

    Very nice work, subscribing.
     
  14. gsport
    Joined: Jul 16, 2009
    Posts: 677

    gsport
    Member

    i sure enjoy a good build up.... and this is one.
     
  15. xhotrodder
    Joined: Jul 2, 2009
    Posts: 1,665

    xhotrodder
    Member

    Loks like it is going to be a sweet ride, when you get it finished. Keep up the good work. I look foward to more posts.
     
  16. Raunchy
    Joined: Apr 16, 2007
    Posts: 379

    Raunchy
    Member

  17. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,462

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Well, it has been a little while since the last update, but here goes. A decision was made not to use the cast Magnum axle, so I picked up a So-Cal forged axle.

    Today I drilled it using my new mag based drill and an annular cutter.

    ( The last time I used a borrowed mag base drill, now I have my own. They are an amazing tool , and with the annular cutters make some really nice holes. As well it can be fitted with a regular chuck for drill bit duties. It will get lots of use.)

    I drilled 13 - 1 3/8" holes starting at the center and going out on both sides on 2 1/2" centers.

    I have also picked up a 312 Y Block with tri power and ordered up a Y block to C4 adapter.

    A few pictures of the new axle and other stuff :)

    Larry.
    Forged Axle.JPG Forged Axle (1).JPG Forged Axle (2).JPG Forged Axle (4).JPG Forged Axle (6).JPG photo[2].jpg c-4adptr.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2018
    Lil'Alb and volvobrynk like this.
  18. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,462

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    A bump for the update :) Man it doesn't take long for a post to be buried a long ways down here :)
     
  19. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,462

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Started setting up my rear end, going to fab wishbones similar to the front.

    I'm gonna fab everything, decided to go with TCI all american coil overs in favor of a decent ride.

    Will build a panhard bar and brackets and post pics as I go.

    A couple shots here of the initial setup, I built a coupe of "hangers" to locate the axle while I build everything else.
     

    Attached Files:

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  20. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,462

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Couple more pics, threw a tire on, kinda hard to get any perspective shot in my small space but the 2x4 represents the length the pickup bed is going to be and the wheel will be centered in the length of the bed.

    Larry
     

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  21. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,462

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    And my Tri power for the 312 Y block fresh back from dickster27 :)
     

    Attached Files:

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  22. Boones
    Joined: Mar 4, 2001
    Posts: 9,691

    Boones
    Member
    from Kent, Wa
    1. Northwest HAMBers

    keep going, I like what I see.. might sit kinda high in the rear if the tires remain in the position shown. or does it slide up in your jig...
     
  23. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,462

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta


    I think the picture may be a little decieving. I am going by a fellow I know who has a similar roadster (Similar, not the same :))

    He has an 8" kick up as do I and he has 6" from the top of the axle to the bottom of the kick up which is what I have in my mockup.

    Gonna get it all together and sitting on the tires and then I may have to adjust from there.
     
    volvobrynk likes this.
  24. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,462

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Went out to the garage and took another look at it. As far as I can see by measuring I'll have about a 3 1/2" rubber rake front to rear.

    Layed out the pieces for my rear wishbones and shot a few pics.

    Welded the shells of the bones together today and smoothed the welds with a belt sander (stationary sander with a 3 1/2" belt)

    The rear bones will be drilled with holes and have tubes welded through them to match the front bones.

    For the heim threaded bungs I cut DOM tubing pieces threaded them for the 5/8" heims and then squeezed them into short pieces of 1" X .063 thinwall tube.
    Welded the ends up and smoothed them out so they look like a chunk of square stock threaded.
    Thought they would look cleaner when welded into the wishbones plates.

    Heres some pics.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Sep 29, 2010
    volvobrynk likes this.
  25. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,462

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

  26. Racrdad
    Joined: Jul 27, 2007
    Posts: 1,208

    Racrdad
    Member

    Super nice fab work, really like the bones you made. Very creative!
     
  27. kingpins
    Joined: Apr 27, 2009
    Posts: 623

    kingpins
    Member

    very nice job.....
     
  28. Boones
    Joined: Mar 4, 2001
    Posts: 9,691

    Boones
    Member
    from Kent, Wa
    1. Northwest HAMBers

    the rear bones look great, what thickness plate did you use for the axle mount and the two rear sections that sandwich the threaded bungs of the bones
     
  29. Buick59
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 1,995

    Buick59
    Member
    from in a house

    The greatest thing about the HAMB are these build threads!
     
  30. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,462

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta


    Thanks guys.

    I used 1/4" plate for both the axle mounts and the side plates of the bones.

    Flame cut them and then drilled the holes. Once that was done I bolted the axle mount plates together in a stack and clamped the side plates of the bones together into a stack as well.

    I finished the edges on the big 3 1/2" wide belt sander (we have a big industrial size belt sander at the college) while they were stacked together which made them all 100% identical and also makes them look laser cut.

    The bones themselves are made of shells of the same material and bent the same way as I did the fronts. The rear end of the bones where the side plates attach are capped with an end plate as well.

    As usual everything will be TIG welded.

    I'll post more pics as I progress along, the rear bones are also going to be drilled like the fronts.
     
    Last edited: Sep 29, 2010
    volvobrynk likes this.

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