Projects 26 T Roadster Pick Up build Thread

That looks damn cool and its like a signature piece that were done back in the day. JW

 

That looks really good Larry!

 

So cool!

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

Somebody did the V8 emblem trick on the side in this one: From here: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...m-days-gone-by.428585/page-3122#post-10622995

 

This weekend was devoted to building my lake headers. Next will come the undercar exhaust system to connect them to.
Larry

 

That is some nice work!

 

Nice job on those Larry !

 

They match the rest of your work, very nice. JW

 

You just gotta love getting new parts
The FedEx truck showed up and....
I wanted some good quality (Not Chinese copies) carbs to top off the Edelbrock 573 tri power for my mctim64 built Y block so I contacted HAMB vendor Uncle Max.
After some back and forth messages we came up with a plan.
I wanted the carbs (Brand new Stromberg 97s) finished in a gold color with black bases and chrome for all the linkages.
Clive ( the carb builder in England ) and source of these fine carbs really outdid himself.
I got the carbs and they are absolutely beautiful.
Pictures for your enjoyment.
Larry

 

Holy Cow! Those are beautiful! If they work as good as they look perfection is at hand.

 

Really sharp looking carb's you specked out!!

Earl

 

WOW nice REAL nice.

 

They look totally amazing Larry. JW

 

I've decided to drop the exhaust off the headers in front of the turnout-block off plates and run the undercar exhaust like planned.
All the way to the back and through a pair of Porter mufflers.
Instead of running the exhaust down under the frame I'm going to go through it.
I have some pipe cut to sleeve the hole through the frame and I think it will end up looking great.
The frame will be as strong with the sleeve through it as it is without the hole so why not

 

Is the engine on rubber mounts? The only issue I see is a possible rattle if the pipe can hit the frame. It will look great.

 

The engine is on the old style flathead biscuit rubber mounts. Stay tuned The exhaust will be mounted under the car using semi solid mounts with rubber isolators (see picture) and the 2 1/2" pipe will have plenty of clearance through the holes I have planned in the frame.
No spoilers on that pictures will follow.
Larry

 

DAAAAAAAAAAMN! Those carbs are a work of art! @uncle max did me right too!

 

I should have known you had it covered. Every other detail is so well worked out.

 

That all sounds very cool and Larry, may I say this build is a work of art, nothing out of place or prospective. JW

 

Time for a small update.
I had a couple of pieces of 4" pipe cut at a 45 degree angle to sleeve the frame and run my 2 1/2" exhaust through the frame.
I got both sides done and built a small fixture to hold the exhaust tubing in the center of the hole when building the rest of the system.

While I was lying under the car pondering the exhaust I spotted a previously missed problem with my rear suspension design. One of the upper bars will bind on the rear end and the suspension will work poorly.

So, I have decided to go to rear suspension design 3.0
Instead of the coil overs I am going to make a run to our So-Cal speed shop and pick up what I need to install a transverse rear spring. Will work better and be a bit more traditional.

The rest of the exhaust can wait till I sort that out. Pictures follow.
Larry.

 

That exhaust fixture thing looks trick and its good you found the rear end problem now. Loving your work Larry, too cool. JW

 

Larry, I love that idea of running the exhaust through the frame and you are making it look so good, that more guys will be following your lead, I'm sure.

 

"So, I have decided to go to rear suspension design 3.0 "
Yesterday I discovered that the reason for having a detailed precise plan is so that you know for sure one thing that won't work.
The exhaust looks great and as for the transverse spring, of course here the more traditional the look the better. Function be ............!

 

Still haven't formulated a solid plan for the rear suspension yet. Apparently from most of my research on buggy spring rear suspension I will have to give up my rear "bones" which I have mounted outside the rear rails.

I'm not willing to make that move as I want them as part of the cars overall look.
So, the next move is to remove the bed and see what I can do to resolve the situation.

The problem I see is with one of my upper control arms which appears like it will hit the top of the rear end when the suspension allows the rear end to go up.

So.... the story continues along with a little head scratching
Isn't this fun

 

pay shun lee whey teen

 

Larry, I was just studying a photo in post #106 of the rear end and the main issue I can see is that the radius rods are double mounted to the axle and will cause the housing to move in a different arch to the top control arms. As for the top arms hitting the housing, if you moved the rear mount forward that should solve that. As for the arch difference, you could change the radius rods to a single mounting point on the axle to stop bind. OR have I missed something else? As for having to change the radius rods if you fit a buggy spring because they are outside the frame, i take it is because of the solid sway bar effect, they will act the same way with your current setup. JW

 

That is version 1.0-
Version 2.0 is post 123 ish.



If the bars will contact the housing, think about -
1. shortening these bars
2. making the mount wider
3 moving the mount forward
That 3 step solution should correct the symptom. At least keep the fix all in one spot.
How much suspension travel will you really actually have, really enough to bind the bars on the housing?

I think that you are pretty far along to be switching from coil overs to transverse springs now, but it's only metal and subject to change.

 

Yip you are correct ! Cheers JW

 

Post #106 was version 1.0 of the rear suspension and as you could see the "sway bar effect" was why it wouldn't have worked well.
If you look at post #123 you can see the changes which eliminate the "sway bar effect and is how the rear suspension now sits.
The problem I see is in looking at the upper bars (where they attach above the rear end housing) from the rear of the car looking forward is that the drivers side upper bar has very little clearance and looks like it will hit the top of the pumpkin when the suspension moves the rear end upwards.

I still like the way I designed it in the modified triangulated 4 bar fashion, I just need to see if there is a solution to the issue.
I'll get there
Larry

 

Wow, you are fast
You are absolutely right, and you posted what you did while I was looking and typing my response.
I like your way of thinking, I believe what I have built will work well and I like option 3 actually.
I am not opposed to switching direction if absolutely necessary however if I don't have to I won't.
I'm going to look at the suspension travel first and go from there, thanks for the ideas.
Larry.