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Projects '26 T roadster build gets it's ass in gear!

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by marx, Sep 8, 2008.

  1. marx
    Joined: Oct 8, 2005
    Posts: 475

    marx
    Member

    Hot and humid here in the Twin Cities today, so let's do some welding! Got the rear shocks done. Decided on tube shocks in the end. Mounted them to the rear end using "41-"48 Ford radius rod ends. Big thanks to HAMBer ProtoTypeDesignFlauz for supplying those! Chassis done, time to prep for paint!
     

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  2. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,105

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    I hope you plan to do some more welding before you prep for paint.

    ( Unless you did so after the pictures )

    If not, then you are not finished. the upper and lower shock mounts should be welded all the way around, it does not look like they are in the pictures.
     
  3. marx
    Joined: Oct 8, 2005
    Posts: 475

    marx
    Member

    Yup, these are tacked in for placement. Much easier to finish weld under that 8" with it off the car and rolled upside down.
     
  4. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,105

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    I know where you are with that :) while some of the welding has been done on my 26 RPU, a lot is in the tacked together stage too.

    Taking it all apart will mean a couple days of welding and finishing. At least !
     
    Last edited: Jul 11, 2011
  5. ProtoTypeDesignFlauz
    Joined: Jul 29, 2007
    Posts: 1,117

    ProtoTypeDesignFlauz
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Marx, the car is looking nice! Glad to have helped you out, with a small part of a cool build.:) Now I know how I am going to mount my rear shocks on my '26 roadster. :D
     
  6. Dennis Lacy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2008
    Posts: 1,108

    Dennis Lacy
    Member

    MARX,

    I just stumbled upon this build thread last night and looked through every page. As the builder/owner of a '27 roadster on '32 rails I can certainly appreciate what it takes to make the frame fit the little T body. I have seen many different takes on this and I don't believe I've ever seen a dogleg put in the rear rails to get them inside the subrails, allowing the subrails to stay more or less intact. That is really clever! How you did the toe panel is absolutely essential to gaining leg room and comfort, I did very similar by putting my toe panel on a steeper angle and shoving the bottom forward. I think I gained about over 6". I don't know how people run the stock floor, especially with a lower seating position, because it puts your ankles at an akward position that gets real uncomfortable real fast!

    All the work you have done on this car so far is really nice and that you are running an Olds is just way cool!

    If I had to pick on one thing, tho, it would be your seating position being really high. I would have liked to see you figure out how to get as low as posible so your whole neck and head weren't above the windshield. '26 & '27 Roadsters are my favorite hot rods, period, and nothing kills me more than to see one that looks really bitchin and sleek sitting there then seeing it go down the road later with half of the drivers body sticking out of the car.

    My car is using the lower windsheld, like you, and when I sit in it I am looking right through the middle of it and when viewed from behind all that can be seen is the upper half of my head above the body. I have my seat cushion right on the floor. When I built this car one of my biggest priorities was to not sit up in the wind like every other one I've seen.

    Keep up with the awesome progress, can't wait to see it done!
     
  7. daddio211
    Joined: Aug 26, 2008
    Posts: 6,002

    daddio211
    Member

    I'm enjoying the thread, and also have a T roadster in the works. Like Dennis said, get down low in there!

    The one thing I've never liked about T's is that too often owners look like they're sitting ON them rather than IN them!
     
  8. What year is the transmission you are using.

    Thanks
    Frenchy
     
  9. marx
    Joined: Oct 8, 2005
    Posts: 475

    marx
    Member

    I'd have to look at my number sheet again, but I think it's about a '68 or so.
     
  10. marx
    Joined: Oct 8, 2005
    Posts: 475

    marx
    Member

    The chassis, bones, front axle and springs made the trip to the sandblaster this week! Chassis is in the body shop and getting a little massaging, and should be in paint by the end of the week. The rest of the stuff spent a couple days with the powder-coaters. Made the difficult choice of selecting chassis and body color a coupe weeks ago. Stay tuned for pics revealing the decision...
     

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  11. marx
    Joined: Oct 8, 2005
    Posts: 475

    marx
    Member

    Couldn't agree more, Dennis. It's what kills it for me when roadsters get channeled to deeply, too. Looks kick-ass in the drive-way, but silly on the highway.
    My final seat position is one of those details still yet to be dialed-in.
     
  12. t-rod
    Joined: Feb 7, 2009
    Posts: 423

    t-rod
    Member

    X4 on seating position. Sitting low on the car is exactly why I didn't channel my car's body.My seat is almost on the floor.
     
  13. marx
    Joined: Oct 8, 2005
    Posts: 475

    marx
    Member

    and the winning color is....International Harvester Baja Brown! I'll get some pics of it outside when I can, but for now, here it is under shop lights.
     

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  14. marx
    Joined: Oct 8, 2005
    Posts: 475

    marx
    Member

    Assembling the clutch it became obvious that my standard GM pilot bushing was not going to work on the crankshaft on this particular olds. The opening was considerably larger. Made a call to Titus in search of a solution. A couple measurements later his machinist friend turned me a nice little steel adapter. Fit perfectly, and tapped in nice and snug. Now if I ever need to replace my bearing I can just pop in another standard GM piece.
     

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  15. marx
    Joined: Oct 8, 2005
    Posts: 475

    marx
    Member

    Frame back from paint, and suspension parts fresh from powder coating. Re-assembly can begin!
     

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  16. marx
    Joined: Oct 8, 2005
    Posts: 475

    marx
    Member

    Needed to make a bracket for my clutch slave. Spent a little time leveling a nice straight shelf into the block for a good clean mounting spot. Then mocked up a cardboard bracket, transferred the template onto steel, cut it out and welded it up.
     

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  17. marx
    Joined: Oct 8, 2005
    Posts: 475

    marx
    Member

    Throwout arm was exactly an inch too long, so I spliced it and added the extra distance. Added a small tab for a return spring.
     

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  18. marx
    Joined: Oct 8, 2005
    Posts: 475

    marx
    Member

    Bracket finished, painted, and in place.
     

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  19. marx
    Joined: Oct 8, 2005
    Posts: 475

    marx
    Member

    Brake lines plumbed.
     

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  20. marx
    Joined: Oct 8, 2005
    Posts: 475

    marx
    Member

    After sectioning the dash so much, I still needed to do the same to the inner bracket for the rear mounted gauges. After much deliberation I've decided to stick with the stock gauges that were in the mystery dash. Maybe they work, maybe not. I'll burn that bridge when I come to it. Bracket done and in.
     

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  21. You are jamming! Looks great!
     
  22. marx
    Joined: Oct 8, 2005
    Posts: 475

    marx
    Member

    Ebay fuel tank painted. Fleet Farm tractor and implement black.
     

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  23. mika112
    Joined: Dec 6, 2009
    Posts: 280

    mika112
    Member

    beautiful look nice hot rod
    nice job .
     
  24. marx
    Joined: Oct 8, 2005
    Posts: 475

    marx
    Member

    Motor in it's home, and starting to run fuel lines.
     

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  25. marx
    Joined: Oct 8, 2005
    Posts: 475

    marx
    Member

    Last winter we cut out the motor mounts and brackets I'd originally made back at the beginning. They incorporated the single large bolt on each side of the Olds block, and I just never was able to wrap my head around that being enough. I just couldn't let it go. So I picked up a pair of Hurst-style mounts and trashed the ones I made. I will sleep that much better now. And they look plenty cool.
     

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  26. zimm
    Joined: Jan 22, 2006
    Posts: 802

    zimm
    Member
    from iowa

    nice work just reread the thread and the colors are perfect
     
  27. titus
    Joined: Dec 6, 2003
    Posts: 5,076

    titus
    Member

    Looks good.

    Take out those speedway rubber motor mounts and throw em away, they split right away, call up chassis engineering and order a set of theirs.

    jeff
     
  28. loco_gringo
    Joined: Sep 2, 2009
    Posts: 583

    loco_gringo
    Member

  29. marx
    Joined: Oct 8, 2005
    Posts: 475

    marx
    Member

    Got the body up to the media blaster this past weekend. Picked it up and ran it over to Bob Fulmer's body shop today to get it sealed up. If there is anything prettier than cleanly blasted steel: then I've never seen it.
     

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  30. cody1958
    Joined: Sep 19, 2006
    Posts: 831

    cody1958
    Member
    from wichita ks

    love this car
     

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