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26 T gow job build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by olskool34, Nov 16, 2012.

  1. Cool project! I like the photo chop!
     
  2. woodbutcher
    Joined: Apr 25, 2012
    Posts: 3,243

    woodbutcher
    Member

    :D Hi olskool34.You got a real good start on your build.Good looking sheet metal.
    Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
    Leo
     
  3. olskool34
    Joined: Jun 28, 2006
    Posts: 2,460

    olskool34
    Member

    What do you guys think about my idea to push to the model a motor back to fit the hood? There is about a 3 inch difference in a model T frame to an A frame. I think I want to push the motor back to the firewall and shorten the driveshaft, the A pedals are really close to the firewall and the steering wheel is also a little short.

    I want to run the stock hood and the only way to do that is to move the motor back. I want the front axle to stay where it is so I will have to modify the crossmember because I will not run a split wishbone. I have some ideas that I have drawn up and I hope they work. I will be loosing the front frame horns to keep the chassis more like a T.

    I have talked with a few guys that have done a T to A swap and they lengthened the hood or did other things to make it fit, I just want it to look right. I like the extra wheelbase but do not want to make the hood longer.
     
  4. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 28,062

    The37Kid
    Member

    Can I vote for 1928-29 fenders? They always look great IMO. Bob:)
     
  5. modelAsteve
    Joined: Jan 9, 2009
    Posts: 360

    modelAsteve
    Member

    Forget the white walls! Sorry!
     
  6. 50Fraud
    Joined: May 6, 2001
    Posts: 9,819

    50Fraud
    Member

    I have never, ever seen an early Gowjob built from a coupe -- always a roadster -- so the car won't be strictly authentic in any event. If it were my car I'd use the 16s because they are beautiful, and because reasonable sized tires can be found for them. But it's not my car, and I think it can be great looking with those goofy big spindly things too.
     
  7. A couple of SUs would be a good way to go - even the HIFs look old school with the dashpots all polished up. Easy to home build a manifold and easy to get running correctly right through the rev range.
     
  8. olskool34
    Joined: Jun 28, 2006
    Posts: 2,460

    olskool34
    Member


    That is why I am building it, because it has never really been done before.
     
  9. GARY?
    Joined: Aug 15, 2005
    Posts: 1,626

    GARY?
    Member

    Rad project!! First I was thinking that it would get roadsterized. I'm digging the coupe look for sure.
    I'm all for the top chop. Just enough to remove the big header panel above the windshield.
    I'd run 21s for now too. They give them "the look". Then later on down the road if you wanted, you could play with different size wheels to see what handles nice, looks good, whatever you wanted.
    I've been really happy with 19s and 21s on my T roadster. Taller gets you higher top speed without winding it up too much.
    The WW pic is 19s. The BW pic is 21s. :)

    And thanks to Clayton, yours already has salt on it. Perfect :)
     

    Attached Files:

  10. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,669

    MrModelT
    Member

    I completely agree with you, the "Gowjobs" as we know them were almost exclusively roaster....what else could be more sporty then a roadster? I have however seen referrences to coupes being used on a few occasions. The father of a fellow H.A.M.B.er built a '28 Chevy coupe chopped 4" with a Chevy 'banger with Durant rods and other goodies. This car was built in the 1930's while he was in high school and a member of the Redland "Hornets" with "Multi" Aldrich.

    In thaT regard, it is not entirely unheard of....but certainly rare.

    I have also heard and seen a touring or two as well. :D
     
  11. lovin the amount of chop its going to get, most go a bit far and the car looses its grace of line look.Looking forward to the finished result of a top T coupe. JW :)
     
  12. GARY?
    Joined: Aug 15, 2005
    Posts: 1,626

    GARY?
    Member

    Stock length hood would be great.
    I'm running an A motor in mine. Stock wheelbase. The engine compartment is stock length give or take an inch. The motor is right up against a flat firewall.
    I was having a difficult time figuring how to get the steering around the starter. That's why I ended up going with a cowl steering setup.
    Looks like Clayton's set up would get around the starter. I think Multi's did so as well.
     
  13. GARY?
    Joined: Aug 15, 2005
    Posts: 1,626

    GARY?
    Member

    Any updates ??
     
  14. olskool34
    Joined: Jun 28, 2006
    Posts: 2,460

    olskool34
    Member

    Not really, just got the headlights I wanted (T roadster from what year I do not know) and am working on the dash. I got some crazy old dash cluster from a 20's car, I wili post some pics soon.
     
  15. straightshooter
    Joined: Nov 17, 2012
    Posts: 33

    straightshooter
    Member

    Looking forward to seeing some pics...
     
  16. kingpins
    Joined: Apr 27, 2009
    Posts: 623

    kingpins
    Member

    it would be nice to see a T coupe done like this.
     
  17. olskool34
    Joined: Jun 28, 2006
    Posts: 2,460

    olskool34
    Member

    Work on my dads A coupe has slowed this build down but I am accumulating some parts for it. I should have some progress pics soon I hope.
     
  18. Keep up the good work. I have taken more time that I hoped on my hot rod.


    Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
     
  19. El Mirage circa 1949. Looks like an A frame;

    [​IMG]
     
  20. ^^^^ kickass pic!
     
  21. fab32
    Joined: May 14, 2002
    Posts: 13,985

    fab32
    Member Emeritus

    Love the idea of a coupe and a slight hair cut +++++. As this one is somewhat local I'm hoping to see it around at a few events. Be sure to keep posting any progress, this one is going to be very cool.

    Frank
     
  22. rocksolidnate
    Joined: Feb 4, 2013
    Posts: 121

    rocksolidnate
    Member
    from Viroqua Wi

    cant wait to see the progress of this build!
     
  23. olskool34
    Joined: Jun 28, 2006
    Posts: 2,460

    olskool34
    Member


    That is what I am thinking almost to the T! Work is going to start within the next couple of weeks when the ice thaws and I can get it up into the garage.
     
  24. olskool34
    Joined: Jun 28, 2006
    Posts: 2,460

    olskool34
    Member

    Hey guys, I am thinking of a 4-5 inch chop. As you know there is a taper in the window frames and door frames. Here is my question, I can split the pillars and make everything line up but there is no way the glass in the door will follow the same path by doing so. What do you guys do when you chop the tops? Remove the entire channel in the door and put it back in after the chop to line up with the new angle on the door/window angle? I hope I am being clear here.
     
  25. LOW LID DUDE
    Joined: Aug 16, 2007
    Posts: 1,222

    LOW LID DUDE
    Member
    from Colorado

    Just make sure the window channel is equal straight up and down on both sides.Make a template out of press board wood same thickness as glass . Install and work up and down until it fits good,then you can take the template to glass shop for them to cut new windows. As for the taper, the original glass channel is straight ,but you can make the window a little longer at the bottom to stabilize it as it goes up if that is a problem.
     
  26. Rat.Racer
    Joined: Mar 11, 2013
    Posts: 417

    Rat.Racer
    Member
    from Maryland

    Can't wait to see how this turns out!
     
  27. Kinky6
    Joined: May 11, 2003
    Posts: 1,765

    Kinky6
    Member


    Yeah, this is cool and different. :cool:
     
  28. olskool34
    Joined: Jun 28, 2006
    Posts: 2,460

    olskool34
    Member

    I am really excited about this one. while working on my dad's coupe, I have been building this in my head over the last 4 months. work is going to start on it this weekend, probably going to pull the motor out and get it on a stand to strip it down and paint it. Frame work is first, then i will focus on what the body needs which isn't much.
     
  29. olskool34
    Joined: Jun 28, 2006
    Posts: 2,460

    olskool34
    Member

    Started in on the T today. Bolted the back of the body down, used the existing holes in the Model A frame and used the original holes in the T body ( just had to elongate them a bit) so that the rear wheel wells were centered over the rear tire.

    As you can see, the engine is about 4 inches too far forward. The pedals and gas pedal are too far outside the firewall. I think I am going to cut the frame in the rear when I Z it and remove 4 inches from the wheelbase to put the body in better relation to the motor.

    Also, I have noticed that the stock T radiator and shell do not like the A engine. Waterpump/radiator is way off there is no way the stock A fan will work. The radiator also needs to come down about 2 inches and there is not room for it with the A crossmember in the way. I want to run a stock T hood. What do guys do when they run a T on an A chassis? Thinking, thinking....................

    [​IMG]
     

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