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Projects '26 Model T build.

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by xrw urabus, Mar 10, 2011.

  1. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,630

    MrModelT
    Member

    It almost sounds like lifter noise. I would check the crank pulley and fan to be safe.

    Do you have an aluminum cam gear? Aluminum pistons?

    You can try killing one cylinder at a time to rule out piston slap or rod issues..
     
  2. Crazybillybob
    Joined: Nov 8, 2010
    Posts: 309

    Crazybillybob
    Member
    from Ohio

    We have an aluminum cam gear and Aluminum Pistons.
     
  3. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,630

    MrModelT
    Member

    My aluminum timing gear is noisy too, as is the timing/mag drive gear on the speedster.

    If you ground out each plug with a screwdriver (to eliminate rod knock) and it makes this noise at any rpm....I suspect it's the timing gear.
     
  4. Crazybillybob
    Joined: Nov 8, 2010
    Posts: 309

    Crazybillybob
    Member
    from Ohio

    After doing another test run... I narrowed down the places to start looking.

    The Crankshaft pulley looks like it's moving around. (good eye 29pu !)

    So I waited for her to cool down and pulled the fan belt.


    I think the pulley might be just a little too loose!
    A quick search on Model T club's site has a number of fixes. The one that comes up the most... buy a new pulley. Or braze up the bore and re-rill/ream/bore to fit the crankshaft properly.

    First I have to get the pin that's holding it onto the crank off. A long drift and a 16oz ballpeen hammer just made it laugh. I guess the 3lb persuader comes out next..

    CBB
     
    Jeff34 likes this.
  5. Late to the Party
    Joined: Nov 16, 2015
    Posts: 832

    Late to the Party
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  6. Flathead Dave
    Joined: Mar 21, 2014
    Posts: 1,818

    Flathead Dave
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from So. Cal.

    Un-chopped is the way to go. My pics show a couple of years ago with a V-6 on a 1982 Mazda Pick Up frame to today with my flathead on a 28-30 frame.

    Trust me, chopped T's look cool and all but more respect comes from leaving it as a tall T.
     

    Attached Files:

    Late to the Party likes this.
  7. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 387

    Jeff34
    Member

    "Persuader". That's what I call my 5# sledge. Something sounds strange. Hope it's just the pulley. Can you run it without that pulley to see if that's what it is?
    Great looking tall T. Glad you decided no haircut.
     
  8. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,630

    MrModelT
    Member

    Yeah, the lower crank pulley is the sound for sure. Mine did a similar thing....but it wasn't as uniform as yours.

    Good save!

    Sent from my SM-G900T using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  9. Crazybillybob
    Joined: Nov 8, 2010
    Posts: 309

    Crazybillybob
    Member
    from Ohio

    A while back I had teased that I was working on something special for the Car. You get to see it now.
    We are planning on using some Model A tail lights on the T in hope that blinky lights will help other drivers realize why our arms are out the windows.
    I started the project by drawing the Light in CAD. Then designing the bracket around it. I also wanted to integrate a licence plate mount into the design (that bracket will appear in a later post).
    [​IMG]
    After the CAD design was completed I 3D printed the bracket. The Bracket was scaled up 2% to account for the metal shrinking when cast.
    [​IMG]

    The Print was sanded smooth primed and painted with several coats of Gloss Black then Waxed.
    [​IMG]
    The Wooden box under the part is the flask. It will be filled with sand that has been treated with Sodium Silicate (this mix will harden when treated with CO2).
    Once the Flask is full, properly compacted, and hardened the part is removed.
    [​IMG]

    Everything is closed up and Ready to pour.
    [​IMG]

    My furnace is nothing to write home about. Just a 5 gallon bucket lined with homemade refractory and some plumbing parts knocked into a propane burner. With air feed by a shop vac.
    [​IMG]
    But it seems to get plenty hot enough to melt aluminum.
    [​IMG]
    Once it is hot enough the Aluminum is pulled out of the furnace, fluxed and degassed. Then poured into the mold.
    [​IMG]

    Then it is left to cool and the extra is poured into muffin tins.
    [​IMG]

    Once cooled the parts are pulled from the mold.
    [​IMG]

    The Spur, Vent, bobs, and flash are cleaned off.
    [​IMG]

    The Mounting holes are drilled.
    [​IMG]
    Then the part is test fitted to the light.
    [​IMG]
    As I post this I realize I mounted it backwards ... I will have to fix that and update the thread.

    It was a good bit of work but a lot of fun. (If anyone wants one of these pm me we'll work something out)
    I can see more parts made this way !!

    Thanks,
    CBB
     
  10. olskool34
    Joined: Jun 28, 2006
    Posts: 2,327

    olskool34
    Member

    Wow, impressive!
     
  11. jerseyboy
    Joined: Jul 17, 2006
    Posts: 632

    jerseyboy
    Member

    I just love this kind of stuff. So much talent on this site!:D:D:D
     
    camistheman likes this.
  12. Crazybillybob
    Joined: Nov 8, 2010
    Posts: 309

    Crazybillybob
    Member
    from Ohio

    Thanks for the Kind words guys. As promised here is the photo of the bracket attached the "Right way" on the light.
    [​IMG]
    The bracket will end up painted black to match the car.

    CBB
     
  13. olskool34
    Joined: Jun 28, 2006
    Posts: 2,327

    olskool34
    Member

    Very slick! I like it a lot.
     
    camistheman likes this.
  14. bobbytnm
    Joined: Dec 16, 2008
    Posts: 1,070

    bobbytnm
    Member

    Wow! Impressive work

    Thanks for sharing
    Bobby
     
    camistheman likes this.
  15. bengeltiger
    Joined: Mar 3, 2012
    Posts: 469

    bengeltiger
    Member

    Love the bracket. Aluminum casting is something I've researched and expect to try in the near future.
     
    camistheman likes this.
  16. Crazybillybob
    Joined: Nov 8, 2010
    Posts: 309

    Crazybillybob
    Member
    from Ohio

    So over the weekend I got stuck in the garage by a thunderstorm...Ahh darn!
    I used the time to strip the old paint and rust off the dash board.
    [​IMG]
    Like the rest of the car there is some slight pitting and discoloration to the metal. Between the wire wheel and the Scotch Brite pad on the grinder I was able to get it off.
    Since it was raining I couldn't leave that nice clean steel unprotected or I would have to do the work all over again.
    So the dash was covered in gray sealer primer.
    [​IMG]
    The primer still needs sanded smooth and the dash painted but I have to wait for it to dry first.
    I also started cleaning up the headlight bezels, as the paint on them was chipped, dirty, and a yellow white color.
    After a trip to the wire wheel I was happily surprised that the bezels are nickel plated brass... most of the nickel is long gone...so Their brass. These should have been nickel plated steel on a 26... But based on the hodgepodge of other year parts on this old girl I.m not really surprised that they are not.
    [​IMG]
    The brass is pitted, and they have a couple dings.... but I think it's about right for this car. Maybe give them a coat of wax to keep the oxide at bay.... but run them as they are! Any thoughts?

    Till the next time,
    CBB
     
    camistheman likes this.
  17. Bigcheese327
    Joined: Sep 16, 2001
    Posts: 6,561

    Bigcheese327
    Member

    Personally, I'd get them re-nickeled. I'm not a fan of brass on Model T's built after 1916.
     
  18. jerseyboy
    Joined: Jul 17, 2006
    Posts: 632

    jerseyboy
    Member

    Nice job on the dash! Keep them brass.:D
     
    camistheman likes this.
  19. Late to the Party
    Joined: Nov 16, 2015
    Posts: 832

    Late to the Party
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I agree with Bigcheese. Brass parts on a Hot Rod look too much like a fad T.
     
    camistheman likes this.
  20. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,630

    MrModelT
    Member

    I'm inclined to agree as well. Brass on a Black or Nickel era T just doesn't do it for me to be honest.

    Simple black or nickel plate would be best.

    Sent from my SM-G900T using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    camistheman likes this.
  21. Crazybillybob
    Joined: Nov 8, 2010
    Posts: 309

    Crazybillybob
    Member
    from Ohio

    When we get to the point where the headlights are mounted... I'll throw them as is and see. If they need re-nickled well that's something I can do at home!
    CBB
     
  22. Crazybillybob
    Joined: Nov 8, 2010
    Posts: 309

    Crazybillybob
    Member
    from Ohio

    camistheman likes this.
  23. Crazybillybob
    Joined: Nov 8, 2010
    Posts: 309

    Crazybillybob
    Member
    from Ohio

    We are working on several parts of the car at the same time right now... With not a lot to show yet. One of the things we've noticed from our engine testing and noise hunting is that the battery ground and feed wires were undersized.
    From the factory the ground wire was a 2/0 wire or solid copper equivalent. The primary battery feed was a 1/0. This was all for the 6V system as you need a higher current at 6Vdc than 12Vdc to do the same work. When we converted the car over to 12Vdc we were guessing a bit at the current load. While 2 and 4 gauge wires we had should have been heavy enough we saw the ground was getting hot enough to start melting the terminal and the primary was melting the insulation. That was not good in the long run. So another order was made to the Brillman Company for the proper 2/0 Copper and 1/0 copper cotton covered wires.
    [​IMG]

    After a little work with a torch the ends were soldiered on heat shrinked and whipped with heavy cotton thread.
    The heavy gauge wires only come in black so to aid in connection and hopefully dumby proof things a little more the ends of the positive primary wires were whipped in red thread, the ground was whipped in black.
    [​IMG]

    I still have to get these installed in the car but this is where we are at the moment.
    Thanks for stopping by,
    CBB
     
    Bigcheese327 likes this.
  24. Crazybillybob
    Joined: Nov 8, 2010
    Posts: 309

    Crazybillybob
    Member
    from Ohio

    After a long time away... We've made a little progress on the car.

    It took a little filing of the crankshaft as years of hand starts and flopping crank pulley had raised a bur around the pin hole that wouldn't allow the new pulley to slide on easily ( the new pulley is machined not stamped and the tolerances it was made to are much tighter than the old stamped one with years of abuse). A couple of turns of the locking screw and it doesn't flop around like the old one.
    [​IMG]
    We also moved her from the basement back out to the shop in prep for dropping the rear end.We found some clearance issues with the Rock Mountain Brakes. The issue is due to the "Improved Car" spring perches are just under 1 inch longer that the older spring perches. This 1 inch is the difference between the brakes fitting or rubbing. While the rear is down we're going to switch out the Warford Aux Trans case to a different one that shouldn't leak quit so much. Also we are working on a new mounting bracket for the Aux Trans. Things are happening just not photogenic or quickly. Hopefully I will have a time to start her up this weekend and verify that the rattle is gone. (and blow the dust off the old girl) The basement houses my woodworking tools so the car has a thin coating of saw dust all over.

    CBB
     
    sidevalve8ba likes this.
  25. Falcon H
    Joined: Mar 11, 2015
    Posts: 135

    Falcon H
    Member
    from Waco Texas

  26. Crazybillybob
    Joined: Nov 8, 2010
    Posts: 309

    Crazybillybob
    Member
    from Ohio

    Guys, I'm sorry for the random missing Pictures in this thread. I have tried going back and editing the post to fix the link and they stay missing. The Pictures are there in the edit but once I save it they are missing. All the images are on the server and the links are right. I'm not sure what's up this just started happening after the last HAMB forum software update. If anyone has any Ideas on what to do to fix them. Please let me know.

    CBB
     
    MrModelT likes this.
  27. 58custom223
    Joined: Jun 24, 2014
    Posts: 39

    58custom223
    Member

    Following!


    Sent from my iPad using H.A.M.B.
     
  28. 46stude
    Joined: Mar 3, 2004
    Posts: 1,704

    46stude
    Member

    Been near 8 months since the last update- how's the project coming?
     
    sidevalve8ba likes this.
  29. Crazybillybob
    Joined: Nov 8, 2010
    Posts: 309

    Crazybillybob
    Member
    from Ohio

    We've had a crap winter here and the car got moved into my unheated garage in prep for the oily mess pulling the Rear and Aux trans back off will be. To be completely honest I got discussed with it when I got to the point I was going to have to take 10 steps backwards. Had a few months to step back... Now with the warmer weather finally here I'm ready to get back on this project. Yo should see some activity here again shortly.

    CBB
     
    sidevalve8ba likes this.
  30. Crazybillybob
    Joined: Nov 8, 2010
    Posts: 309

    Crazybillybob
    Member
    from Ohio

    You guys have set a little fire under my backside. Over the weekend we fired the old girl up for the first time since the pulley was replaced and the inspection covers were reinstalled on the bottom of the engine.


    For the video we had the battery sitting on the ground beside the car again. This is because we burnt up the first wiring harness we made for the battery to starter connection. Turns out 8Awg wire is not up to the task of starting a freshly built Model T engine. I pulled the old melted wires out and installed the new harness we made of 2/0 and 1/0 Wire.
    [​IMG]

    Awhile back I had made up a nice metal battery box, Got it all painted and then figured out that we couldn't install it with the body on. It was too tall. I'm planning on remaking the battery box in the near future but I'm waiting on a new toy to help (it marries the 4th state of matter and CNC). So to get a battery in the car safely till then I knocked together a plywood battery shelf.
    [​IMG]
    It's not a permanent fix but it will do for now. (the two wires you see are for the coil an the fuel pump. We don't have the dash in so for testing they have been ran straight to the battery).
    I have a few house type projects fighting for time right now but I'm going to try and carve a few hours a week out to get this car back on track! Check back again soon for more progress.

    CBB
     

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