Hot Rods '25 T Roadster Sports Rod.

Stewart ... what was the deciding factor in using quarter-elliptic front suspension?

I love the car, it's got "Style" !!!
Glenn

 

I was a partner in the company that made Model A Modifieds. I designed the rolling frame and made all the jigs and fixtures. I had always liked the look of 1/4 elliptics, so incorporated them into the design. Once the car the first car was built and tested, I was sold!
For me it was handling and aesthetics.
To put the axle and tie rod in front of the grille and then go to add some form of leaf springs, the options are slim. Most go for a T bucket style suicide perch. It doesn't look clean enough to me, as the perch has to come out of the grille if you are using a full grille shell,and I am. It's a personal aesthetic. A suicide perch has worked well on thousands of cars, I just prefer the look of the grille being uncut.
I also liked the handling of 1/4 elliptics. Talking with some sports car and autocross friends we wondered if they also act sort of like a anti sway bar, whatever the modified handled very flat round corners.
I want my car to have the main visible parts to be hot rod, mixed with sports car, that look and perform well. 1/4 elliptics fill that for me.
Cheers,
Stewart.

 

That was Lions hot rods right? Great looking and well thought out lil T you have there!

 

No, it was called Real Hot Rods. I started with a '28 style roadster cowl and made a rounded back like a '31 rpm. Was a front cover and build up in R+C.
Like most of us, I have been building this car "in my head" for years. It was going to be my retirement project, but I couldn't wait till then.
Cancer has a way of kicking your arse into gear.
Cheers.
Stewart.

 

You guys made a pretty good splash back then.

 

Today was good and very bad .
The good. I modified the front top tube to give clearance for the electric cooling fan.
I then finished the Gauge pod. I made the sides on the shrinker/stretcher, and welded the whole lot together on the steering support tubes.
The bad. Feeling all proud of myself and checking something off the list, I decided to assemble the pod with the gauges to see how it looked. In the process I dropped the Temp gauge, shattering the glass and denting the bezel.
The gauges are from the early '60s. I have had them over 25 years waiting to put them on this car.
With the deed done, so am I for the day. I've come in to sulk, and make sure I don't do anything else stupid in the garage.
Cheers,
Stewart.

 

Less is more--the Colin Chapman principle.

Roo

 

Simplify, and add lightness. If you take something off, don't put it back on, unless it is lighter.
Both quotes I have ingrained into this build .
Cheers,
Stewart.

 

The gauge panel is "spot-on" Stewart.
So sorry to see the gauge accident, if I had one I'd send it to you.

Motor On !

 

After a sufficient amount of sulking and generally feeling sorry for myself, I realized I wasn't using the Fuel gauge I had! So after careful disassembly on both gauges, I reassembled the Temp gauge using the glass and bezel off the Fuel gauge.
As something I always teach my students, "It's not the size of the screw up, but the speed of the recovery" !
All is well in the Limey Speed Shop again. Sorry for the drama.
Cheers,
Stewart.

 

Stewart,

I have some Smith's gauges from a Jag sedan, though with black bezels. Let me know if you'd like to see them.

I have a rotary light switch from the same car, which I want to use the in my roadster, but it doesn't seem to work.

Thoughts?

Chuck

 

Yep, that's one of the good things about those Smiths gauges - real easy to get the bezels off and mix and match them.

Good save!

 

No intrinsic anti-roll I can see; in fact I'd expect the spring base to be somewhat narrower than with a transverse leaf, i.e. less roll stiffness per unit of bump stiffness. The quarter-elliptics will give you a bit of roll-steer, though, which could boost steering response on a car that is already taut and wieldy.

The springs get longer/straighter as they compress and shorter/more curved as they rebound, which changes the angle of the axle slightly. Compare the forward-facing quarter-elliptics found at the rear of almost every proper Bugatti. Set up that way they give a slight roll-countersteer, useful at a time when rear-axle waywardness was the norm. Clearly visible here:

 

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I understand the concept of the actual spring length varies under load, but doesn't the shackle make up for this?
Cheers,
Stewart.

 

Sorry - I missed your pic of the set-up. I was thinking e.g. GN quarter-elliptics, which also locate the axle. No roll-steer in your case. But no additional anti-roll either? Perhaps it's just a bit less polar moment of inertia due to more stuff closer to the CG than otherwise?

 

I learned a long time ago the difference between an apprentice and a journeyman is, a journeyman knows how to fix the mistake.

Sent from my SM-G386T using H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

We don't need no stinkin' fuel gauge!

 

After many years working in a production machine shop; I came to the conclusion that (some) journeymen just buried their mistakes deeper in the scrap barrel.

 

Limey,
Sure like your build and the "look" that your car is going to have. I have a 28 rpu that I built lakes style and used a Ford Zetec/BW T5 tranny and being low was a prime target of the look I wanted (front of the frame rails are between 2- 1/2 to 3 inches from the ground). I did the same think that you have done, C clamped some plywood to the bottom of the frame and built everything above it. I can tell you that this really works although you still have to drive careful around speed bumps. I also added some 1/8 inch thick aluminum plates to the low spots on the frame for protection. I do think that you might be a little optimistic about getting a 100 hp from you motor selection especially with the way you have built the intake. Your motor probably didn't make much more when it was stock. You are right about not really needing big HP to have fun, may car weighted around 1500 lbs and I had probably about 130 hp and it is snappy. Love your build and will probably using some of your neat ideas on the rebuild that I am doing on my 28.

Rex

 

Rex,
Your car was a big part of my thought pattern when I was building this. I have loads of pictures of your build, from plywood wheels up to the rear luggage rack on Bonneville sunset! I even considered making mine a modified. Needing to run the turtle deck for Modifed Roadster class made up my mind for me though.
The engine was rated at 105 hp in the Swift, so I'm guestimating 95-100 for me. I will be using some lumpier cams, which will improve things.
Cheers,
Stewart.

 

Bloody right! Those gauges and tank senders are soooo heavy!
Cheers,
Stewart.

 

Bring back memories Stewart?

 

Sure does!
It was the only flathead one we sold.
Cheers,
Stewart.

 

Not been up to much.
Got the frame all finish welded, except for the gas tank mounts. Waiting on new brackets being welded to the aluminum tank.
Made and welded the gas pedal mount to the firewall.
Made the rear valance pan and rear side panels for the turtle deck. These need to be spot welded together. A friend made the bottom of the grille and the infill panel to my design. Finishing the body tub is next.
Cheers,
Stewart.

 

looking forward to photos from the weekend

 

I don't want to ruin Stewart's surprise....but the color choice is PERFECT!

Thanks for having me there!!
Clark

 

Seeing as these guys just stole my thunder, here are some more pictures of the weekends labours. More pictures and words to follow.

 

Had a blast "Stew-be-do-be-do" Was so glad to get there.... You did a awesome job of engineering... Looking forward to seeing it kill bugs at neck breaking speeds..... You sir are loved by a LOT of people,.... But frankly I think your kind of a putz. .

 

Looks awesome! Great progress!

 

Sonofabitch that looks fantastic!