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235 L6 exhaust thoughts?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by wolffcub, May 14, 2013.

  1. wolffcub
    Joined: Jul 4, 2011
    Posts: 97

    wolffcub
    Member
    from Edmonton

    Hello all. Been lurking for years on this forum but never took the time to say hello. I got myself a 49 chevy truck about 16 years ago and have been slowly working away on it in my spare time.

    Now I am at the exhaust stage and i have a quick question. The dual Fenton headers have a 2" dia. hole size on the mounting flange but im going to use a 2.25" dia exhaust system. Would it be better to mount my 2" - 2.25" pipe adapter right at the header flange location or run pipes off the header as 2" dia down and slightly back then install the adapter?

    Just a little pic of the current state of the headers for shits and giggles.

    Scotty

    [​IMG]

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  2. UPSrodder
    Joined: Jun 9, 2005
    Posts: 566

    UPSrodder
    Member

    From the looks of your project, I would say, run the 2" down under the cab and then have the adapted 2.25" pipe after that. no point in seeing the adapted piece when you look at your engine compartment. Only the placement of the mufflers will make the difference in the sound of the exhaust. The closer the mufflers are to the engine the louder the rap will be.
     
  3. OL-54
    Joined: Oct 9, 2010
    Posts: 14

    OL-54
    Member

    Traditional 2" systems will produce a wonderful rap and tone. From experience, 2.5" systems don't have bite of the bark and produce a headache inducing drone at highway speeds (with a variety of mufflers to try to fix it!). I am unsure of the 2 to 2.25 differences. Nice remote filter mount.
     
  4. 54rat210
    Joined: Jun 5, 2012
    Posts: 390

    54rat210
    Member

    Nice looking 235
     

  5. wolffcub
    Joined: Jul 4, 2011
    Posts: 97

    wolffcub
    Member
    from Edmonton

    She will only be a city driver for the weekends. I'm not a fan of the rasp sound at all. Im going to stick 2 flowmaster 50 series mufflers on it as far back as possible. Im more for the deep tone.

    Thoughts on running a cross pipe between the duals? I have lots of room to install one just behind the trans cross brace.
     
  6. Curt B
    Joined: Oct 15, 2009
    Posts: 325

    Curt B
    Member

    Looking good. I went 2" all the way out the back with Dynomax turbo mufflers and love the sound. 2 1/4" pipes, a cross pipe, and even the heat tube setup will all kill off a portion of the rap. You do have a 1/16" restrictor in your oil filter plumbing right?
     

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  7. wolffcub
    Joined: Jul 4, 2011
    Posts: 97

    wolffcub
    Member
    from Edmonton

    No i don't have one in the oil line. Never knew it needed one. The motor is not a 49 but a 55 with some work done to it. Do i still need the restriction fitting? What part did you use on yours?
     
  8. wolffcub
    Joined: Jul 4, 2011
    Posts: 97

    wolffcub
    Member
    from Edmonton


    I see your profile says your in Edmonton. What you running for a power plant?
     
  9. I have also heard that the sound of 2.5" can be annoying. I went with 1 3/4" on mine as I wanted a bit more rap but 2' seems to be most widely used.
     
  10. Curt B
    Joined: Oct 15, 2009
    Posts: 325

    Curt B
    Member

    I'm running a '55 235 in mine as well and a restrictor is definetly a requirement. I'm using a high performance Amsoil bypass filter which has a restrictor built into the head.

    Engine spec's are: .080" overbore, mild porting, repop Fenton dual intake/Rochester B's, 261 cam, split stock exhaust, and various aluminum bits.
     

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  11. wolffcub
    Joined: Jul 4, 2011
    Posts: 97

    wolffcub
    Member
    from Edmonton

    Like your custom made filter setup. Should put a price on it and let me know how much for you to build another. Got a part number or link to your filter bypass?

    Would be wonderful to meet up some time so i can gawk at your ride and chat.
     
  12. jcmarz
    Joined: Jan 10, 2010
    Posts: 4,633

    jcmarz
    Member
    from Chino, Ca

    A 2 inch pipe would be more that enough for the 235. If I remember correctly, there's a thread on here that talks about exhaust pipe size and how it relates to the motor and how it's a common mistake to use to big of a pipe or too small of a pipe size. So, I would not even consider using a 2.25 inch pipe.
    Nice truck. I have had my truck for 11 years now and still working on it. Have you joined the AD group? If not go to community and join.
     
  13. wolffcub
    Joined: Jul 4, 2011
    Posts: 97

    wolffcub
    Member
    from Edmonton

    All the reading I have done regarding the 2" vs 2.25" seems to give no definite answer. One reason for going 2.25 was because i can get my hands on a rod pre-cut do it yourself flowmaster kit. Flow master does not make one in 2".
     
  14. jcmarz
    Joined: Jan 10, 2010
    Posts: 4,633

    jcmarz
    Member
    from Chino, Ca

  15. wolffcub
    Joined: Jul 4, 2011
    Posts: 97

    wolffcub
    Member
    from Edmonton

    Picked up the flowmaster 2.25" exhaust kit and two 50 series delta mufflers. got all the parts in the kit to layout correct and it looks like just 2 bits need to be modified. Was up late in the garage cutting and welding away into the am.
     
  16. Curt B
    Joined: Oct 15, 2009
    Posts: 325

    Curt B
    Member

    Just out of curosity what was the kit worth? I paid $400 from manifold to tips installed and thought I got good value and a clean setup. Here's a link to the filter unit I'm using and be sure to restrict it somehow (built in to my unit). Drilling a hole in an NPT plug or incorporating a carb jet are both options to keep pressure to the bearings.

    http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ.../filters-and-mounts/single-remote-bypass-kit/
     
  17. wolffcub
    Joined: Jul 4, 2011
    Posts: 97

    wolffcub
    Member
    from Edmonton

    You did get a good deal. I spent $480 on it all yesterday. Too late for me now i already started to cut the kit parts lol.
     

  18. That is great advice spot on.
     
  19. Cosmo49
    Joined: Jan 15, 2007
    Posts: 1,298

    Cosmo49
    Member

    I think you are heading in the right direction. Here's my thoughts coming from a daily driver only vehicle, close to 15 years over 70 k miles. 2" exhaust to an 'X-pipe' or an 'x-muffler' (Summit sells one, it's 2 in two out with a perforated "X" inside the muffler. I'd even send the pipes out the back on the same side (driver's). I LOVE the x-pipe, let me repeat, I LOVE the x-pipe, I'm going to try that x-muffler as I described above the next time.

    OH, presently I have Fentons, x-pipe just after the bellhousing crossmember, 6" of pipe then twin 30" cherry bombs ( don't know what they are packed with). This system has been on for over ten years, is not too loud, remember daily, only vehicle and I take my '49 1/2 ton on 1k trips several times a year, engine is a '56 235 as below....

    [​IMG]


    Roll on brother...

    Cosmo49
     
  20. APACHE FS
    Joined: Feb 20, 2007
    Posts: 569

    APACHE FS
    Member

    Your gonna like that 50 series delta flow, has a good sound without being too much inside the vehicle. I've run them on other stuff but not a 6. I'm gathering all my exhaust stuff now, is be interested to hear that thing if you could link a video or sound bite when it's done.
    Nice work on everything, by the way.


    Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
     
  21. deeddude
    Joined: Aug 30, 2011
    Posts: 127

    deeddude
    Member

    I'm not a fan of the raspy sound either. I went with 2-2" into a merge with a 3" outlet and a single flowmaster. It had a deep tone to it. Kinda sounded like a V-8 at idle and a nice mellow tone cruising. There are a couple you tube videos with this set-up, search 235 start-up and you'll find them.
     
  22. wolffcub
    Joined: Jul 4, 2011
    Posts: 97

    wolffcub
    Member
    from Edmonton

    Been a slow two weeks for me but got it all sized up, cut up and tack welded in place. Not too keen on the way the down pipes turned out angle and cut wise from the readers running down and back however........ I have decided to do it a bit on the rat rod ish side of things for the body so the look will suit it.

    Quick question.. thoughts on the cross pipe between the 2 exhaust runs? Is it necessary? Pros and cons?

    Scotty
     
  23. HEATHEN
    Joined: Nov 22, 2005
    Posts: 7,591

    HEATHEN
    Member
    from SIDNEY, NY

    If you like the "bumble bee" sound of a six with duals, don't use a crossover.
     
  24. Guys, sorry for the question is not subject. Tell me where I can buy the oil filter with copper pipes and fittings. In Russia, it is difficult with inch dimensions fittings.
    Thank you
     

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  25. wolffcub
    Joined: Jul 4, 2011
    Posts: 97

    wolffcub
    Member
    from Edmonton

    Got it all in position and started welding some joins. All seems to fit fine and clear all the cross members with no issues.

    Not 100% on board with the pipe from the rear header but it will do for now until its on the road and i can drive it to a exhaust shop.

    [​IMG]

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  26. Cosmo49
    Joined: Jan 15, 2007
    Posts: 1,298

    Cosmo49
    Member

    An 'h-pipe' set up is not an 'x', pardon if you already knew that.
     
  27. jkski
    Joined: Jan 27, 2009
    Posts: 137

    jkski
    Member

    WOW very nice,you do good work.
     
  28. wolffcub
    Joined: Jul 4, 2011
    Posts: 97

    wolffcub
    Member
    from Edmonton

    I know 'H' comes before 'X' in the alphabet. I have read about some of the pros and cons of each setup and decided for the H setup. Main reason was because the " do it yourself kit" I got only had the 'H' included in the kit.
     
  29. Cosmo49
    Joined: Jan 15, 2007
    Posts: 1,298

    Cosmo49
    Member

    Didn't mean to come off as a wise ass. I have a'49 Chevy 1/2 ton as well, daily driver only vehicle for 15 years with a 235, Fentons. Think of two hard rushing streams running parallel, then you put in that 'H' connector, the streams are going to rush on by. Now keep those streams tight together and put an "X" in there do you see how the pulses cancel out and improve the flow?

    I see you have a Saginaw. Your shifter is going to be right on your right thigh and too far back (unless you are putting buckets in), here's what I did to put the shifter in the middle of the floor....

    [​IMG]


    You've got to go over and up to 1) get the shifter away from your leg, and 2) provide a spot to mount your shifter.

    Here is another picture of how I fabricated a mount to put the shifter in a position where I use the bench seat. I know that you are looking at is a Muncie 3 speed but I was able to use this same mount (same holes) on a '69 Saginaw with Borg-Warner overdrive. Works like a charm....

    [​IMG]

    Here's the shifter in the middle of the floor, bench seat...

    [​IMG]


    Good luck, pm me if you want to talk it out. Don't get me wrong brother, the way you have the exhaust is going to sound excellent, just too loud for me, the quieter and powerful advocate.

    Regards,

    Cosmo49
     
    Last edited: May 23, 2013
  30. wolffcub
    Joined: Jul 4, 2011
    Posts: 97

    wolffcub
    Member
    from Edmonton

    Thanks for the info on the shifter. My cab has not been installed since I put in the power plant about 10 years ago. I had a feeling it might rub my leg. I was also envisioning a offset bracket like yours.

    As for the 'H' pipe, its already all welded up and permanent. Thanks for the information anyways.

    I got my intake back today from a friend that did some tig welding to it. I had to grind away a bit of the back side of the exhaust preheat chamber so it would clear the fenton headers. A hole was left due to the material removal and had to have a filler chunk installed and welded flush.
     

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