Getting ready to tackle changing of the rear main seal on removed engine from my 64 Bel Air . From google I have heard everything from using a Chinese finger trap to completely removing crank. Any good advise in between these ? I obviously do not want to make it more difficult than needed but do not want to have to do it twice either . Anything else I should also do while there ? THANKS !!! Dan
Bear in mind, a rear main seal leak is often caused by worn main and thrust bearings. A seal only has so much tolerance for movement,exceed that and it will leak.
You should be able to drive the upper half up at one end, then grab the other end with pliers and pull it out. Use the little plastic thingy that comes with the seal to protect the outside edge of the new one as you install it. triple check to make sure the lip is forward on both halves on the new one, too.
Squirrel, I guess your referring to the “ upper half “ as of I is being changed in the car ? Here is the one I bought as recommended in a different thread. The round plastic piece I am not sure how it works but this afternoon when I pull the pan it will be apparent I have both the 61 manual and the 64 supplement and am going to read again
Triple check is right. It's VERY easy to mis-match the halves of the seal. Put a small drop of sealer where the two halves of the seal join. I've also heard that it helps to rotate the seal a bit so that the joint of the seal is clocked slightly off of the parting line of the block and main cap. I hope that makes sense. .bjb
Squirrel, I have both the 1961 manual and the 1964 supplement... I was referring to the first when I should have looked at the supplement.. they went from the 235 to the 230 in there sometime I also have the wrong seal . Thanks.... Dan
Oh yeah, that's what they look like. No need for sealer on the main cap, and you can't offset the seal.
The manual says tap with brass pin punch until protruding from opposite side and “ roll “ out with pliers .. I taped it with a steel punch and it sounded metallic... going to wait till I see correct seal to confirm that there may be a metal rod inside the seal . I am also gong to buy some brass punches. Thanks Dan
there is a metal rod inside the seal. you should be able to see the end of it, and be careful to keep the punch centered on it
Squirrel, It was tight make me nervous once it broke loose Slade right out of there with my fingers .. Working on the front seal now figuring how to put that balancer on . I asked you in a different post About a part number but can’t remember if I put the number in so I’m looking for that post now thanks
the damper goes on with a big hammer, and a block of wood. Hold the block of wood against the damper, and beat on the wood with the hammer.
I read a couple posts that said this would help on the shaft along with heating up the balancer but I am afraid that heat may damage or weaken the rubber
just use a big hammer and a 2x4, it will go on. You might need to remove parts so you have room to swing the hammer.
THIS ^^^^ I've been told is usually an indication that you have been talking to the wrong people. The seal is a National 5092 or it's equivalent. It works a whole lot better any time you are changing the rear main with the crank still in the engine if you loosen up several of the main cap bolts to let the crank drop down from the block just a tad. That saves a lot of fight in getting the old seal out or the new seal in. Primary thing is making sure that the lips on the seal are oriented in the correct direction and properly torqueing all of the main caps. I've offset the seals a time or two when installing them and really haven't been able to tell if it helps or not.
The Jalopy Journal
