Projects '23 Model T Gow Job - AKA: Sand Creek Special

On to some plumbing. Todays "simple" project was to plumb up the mains. First order of business was to make a custom fitting:



Then run all of the lines. Not much issues here. I did the rear line over as I didn't like the first version. Second one looks much better.....although I wasn't thinking about the back of the pan wall. I will have to look into that, hopefully I won't need to do it a third time.



Well, Looks like the dip tray is going to need some work. This is a Model A unit I'll modify. Figured that was best being I'm using an A crank and rods.




As it turns out, a simple notch for the center main line and trimming the front off works darn near perfect....although I may have trimmed a little too much of the front for my liking *sigh*.






Something I soon discovered, but hard to photograph, the tray is currently sitting on the crank throws. With that, the dips on the rods are a good 3/16" , maybe a smidge more away from the bottom of the dip troughs. So obviously moving the tray away from the crank is only going to exasperate the distance on the rod dippers and dip trough. I am not sure if I want to have that distance increased. I may have to really cut up this tray to get what I want....to be determined.

 

How much oil sits in the tray? If it a 1/2" you should have lots no?

 

Not positive on the measurement of what sits in the dip, I just want to make sure it is indeed enough. Technically it should be, being its all Model A parts, but it was worthy to note for sure. In a perfect world, the space between the crank and tray and the rod dippers and tray should be the same.

I am not sure how far away the tray sits from the crank throws in a stock A application. I am figuring I need about .150" clearance, I may just lay a couple of pieces of 3/16" (.187") flat stock on the crank as spacers while I mock everything up.

 

I don't know anything about bangers but I would be inclined to set the tray at an approximation of how it sits in the car and fill it with water and measure how much ch it holds.

 

One thing I first discovered a ways back was getting the Big A$$ Model A dip tray out of the T sized pan cover access hole. Well, upon further inspection last night, I realized I could shorten the pan (had to do that anyhow), and I could definitely narrow it. The narrowing was ok because I wanted to add a taller side lip to one side----which will become apparent hopefully tomorrow or the next day.




You can see from the front I cut off, the pan is 1" narrower from stock.





We're getting there slowly......

 

The next step was to add some squirters for the rods. Basically playing off the principal of the early Chevys that had oil tubes feeding the the rod troughs. These are just some 90 degree #4 AN fittings




Back side---or inside? depends on your perspective I guess. I may be adding short stubs of copper tubing to the ends of the fittings, I have to see how some of this plays out further down the build.




Next step was to start building a manifold to distribute the oil from the filter to various places. This was a piece of 3/4" DOM .125" wall tubing I had in my cut-offs bin. It was perfect for my needs. Here I've welded two fittings on so far---again -4 AN.




And here it is all finished up---except for the mounting brackets.




And after a few hours of plumbing and a couple of runs to the local hose supplier and Napa. I am REALLY glad this is all figured out now. I wasn't sure how it was all going to play out. I had a couple of ideas, but no real solid plan to go with. Sometimes thats how it goes, just start building and see if it works. The large -8 line will be the manifold feed from the filter.....hopefully the oil pan still fits with the filter....I need to get it off the mock up block and find out.

 

Loving watching your progress!

 

A thing of beauty!!

 

Well, as it goes, building something one off usually requires some redo. Not to bad in this case, I had to cut off two fittings and will need to weld those holes shut and redrill and weld new ones on.




Just a overall shot of the 10 lbs of crap in a 5 lbs bag. I freaking kinked the main oil feed line to the oil manifold so that'll have to get redone also. Next up is to build mounts to hold the dip tray into the main oil pan at the correct height. Also need to clearance the inner pan rails to clear the rod bolt nuts. Unbelievably, I can as I had hoped to achieve, get the dip tray out of the access hole in the oil pan. It requires removal of the oil manifold. After unhooking that mess, you can tilt it out and up through the hole.

 

Nice!!

 

great progress!

 

Any updates?

 

Sadly, no. Been real busy with side jobs after work. Plus being winter it's cold in the garage. Heating it requires time and money (kerosene), and if I'm heating it, I'm going to make money while doing it.

Two things I really need to keep this going, a completed body, and a running engine. Considering trying to find a stock T engine to stick in it with the faux triple deuce intake. I did set up two different driveshaft tubes, one for a stock engine/trans, one for the A transmission behind the T engine. Just need to get the driveshafts shortened and have a new square machined on the end for the u-joint.

 

What do you need?

I have a mint pass. door, the 2 panels that go between the doors on a touring, a seat back panel and a roughish rdstr. pass. 1/4...I guess shipping is the issue though

 

Thanks Nailhead. It's not a parts issue, it's getting the time / motivation / and right frame of mind to work on it.

As far as the body, I need to do the rust repair on the pass side....which is going to require splitting the whole side in half as I need to replace all under the door. Then there's the rewooding of the body. It's just a matter of time and patients.

A stock engine/trans would at least motivate the project to a near running state. The chassis and steering are basically done.

Whats the saying? "When you have time you don't have money, when you have money you don't have time"? That about sums it up mostly.

 

Yeah that wood...that's why mine is still sitting in a pile of panels I had the plans for it but woodworking isn't my forte

 

I'm good with 2x4's and 3" wood screws

 

Be sure to build some caster into that front cross member / spring mount. Lengthening the control arms / lowering the control arm to frame pivot to get proper caster will bind the spring shackles.

 

Yup, I know about that. I used Model T spring and perches. The T perches have caster built in, unlike the Model A's and later Fords. Well aware of binds in suspension coming from my auto racing many years ago. But definitely a good post as a reminder to others. Thanks.

 

Any progress? Looking forward to see how it's coming out

 

As much as I'd like to say yes, no there hasn't. Hard to just go out and work on something in the garage when it's cold out. And when I do heat it it is to do Side Jobs. Ive geared up and begun narrowing rear axle housings---done Three 8-3/4 Mopar ones currently.

I've been half heartedly searching for a reasonable stock T engine. At this stage it would go a long ways to getting this thing under power. But the body is still a biggie to get done. My main goal is to get the pass side patch panel in.

 

Hang in there, looking forward to seeing progress when it happens

 

Is it progress if it's backward progress?

I needed to fix my oil pan. If you recall, I made a big spacer ring to bolt to the back of the block. It is a spacer and will be built out to enclose the back of the block. What I discovered after mounting the pan is, things did not get in place where I wanted them...concerning the back wall of the oil pan. The plan has always been to bolt the ring to the block and have it sit right up against the pan. There was a gap, an uneven one at that, because I did not get the back wall where I wanted it to be. Well knowing oil was going to be here, I wasn't going to take the chance trying to seal the gap with a gasket or sealer.

Soooo, I marked and drilled my ring for mounting holes, drilled them into the back wall while all bolted together.




Then I cut the back wall back out




I then welded nuts to the inside of the back wall so I could bolt the spacer ring to it.




Bolt it all back together firmly......




And start welding it back together.....those gaps are going to be a huge PITA to reweld, but I'll get it done tomorrow hopefully.

 

Yes - I think it's = to "Advance to the Rear" , .
Marcus...

 

Taking some advantage of a day off, I decided to continue work on the oiling system.

I needed to make temporary stand offs to hold and get the dip tray where I wanted it. Some quick cuts on some scrap metal and a bend in the vice.




Get everything positioned, I used some 1/4" scrap to set the distance between the crank and dip tray. Then made some judicious tack welds from the tabs to the dipper tray. I need to finish rewelding the oil pan up before I can continue on this. But this has been a chore that has nagged me for quite a while.

 

Nice Progress.

 

I'm loving your build! The work you are putting into this engine is amazing! Watching eagerly.

 

Thank You. I know this part is probably boring to some, but it is part of the build. Some might be "Why does it take so long" that last couple of posts were my whole day today and part of yesterday. Tons of put it together and take it apart and repeat.

I decided that I should try to locate the oil filter yet a third time. So that had to get done today. of course I had to weld those holes shut now . You can see my first position on the other side I previously welded up.




Then I set the dipper pan into the oil pan and started formulating a plan to get it mounted solidly but still removable to service the rod shims if need be. I might add, basically you have to disassemble all the lines and remove the oil manifold to get the dipper tray out, but it will come out. Not an easy engine to service, but it is possible. I am considering making my own lower cover and thus make the opening another 2 or so inches across to make things easier. Then I'd just use silicone for the gasket.

 

BTW, I calculated out the oil capacity, 3 gallons (12 quarts). The pan fill dimensions are 9.5" x 20" x 4" high.

 

[QUOTE=" I know this part is probably boring to some, but it is part of the build. Some might be "Why does it take so long" that last couple of posts were my whole day today and part of yesterday. Tons of put it together and take it apart and repeat.[/QUOTE]

The ones hat would say that would be the ones that have never done this sort of thing! It takes for ever to do these "One Off" builds. LOOKING GOOD!