Got some garage time in today. I mocked up the body and grill shell so I could figure out engine placement. It's starting to look a bit like a car. Should be able to knock out the motor mounts tomorrow, and then decide if I want to do an X-member or a K-member. Then start designing that and a trans mount.
I got the engine mounted yesterday. I kept the mounts simple, and I think they came out pretty well. Next step is crossmember of some sort, trans mount and pedals. Then I took some artsy fartsy photos for fun.
Nothing exciting this weekend. I started planning out my center crossmember, and need to order some material to make it happen. Since I couldn't make any progress on that, I worked on my '54 for a while, and today I welded up the chassis on the T. The front and rear crossmembers, and the front spring mount were all just tacked on. So, once the center crossmember and trans mounts are done, then the frame is going to come off the table and sit on its suspension again. And if anyone happens to be coming to GNRS and has some 28-29 Model A 21" wheels they would like to bring with them and sell to me, let me know.
I've been super busy at the shop getting ready for GNRS. We have been assembling two cars to go to the show. But I got at the T a little bit, so I'll post an update in case anyone is watching. I decided I was going to go with a K-member in this car, so I had some 1/8" sheared and bent into C-channels the same dimensions as the frame rails for it. I started by cutting a section to length and making the ends fit inside the frame rails. I would have done the ends of these piece a bit differently if I was at the shop, but since I was at home I had to do it a little more caveman. Here it is fit in-between the framerails. I then cut a section out of the bottom, so that I could make the crossmember drop down around the back of the trans, and give me a place to put the trans mounts. I then tacked together the dropdown portion. This will get filled in except a hole around the trans, and then once the trans mounts, side sections of the K-member, and the pedals are mounted, I'll make out and cut some holes in the K-member. Not sure if I'll be able to get back on this car before GNRS, so we'll see.
So GNRS is over an things are back to normal, so I had a chance to get back on the T. I finished up the main section of the K-member and placed it in the frame. I then made some trans mounts, and drilled holes for were they will be riveted. I then made some legs for the K-member, but I hated how they were fitting, and how they looked. So, I went back to the drawing board and come up with something different. So, I made up the new ones today and am much happier with them. Tomorrow I should be able to get them finished and drilled and rivet everything in. Then I can take it off the frame table and have a roller again.
Today I finished up the fab work on the K-member. Got it in and took the frame off the table and have a roller again. The K-member is just bolted in for now, I will rivet it in later when things like pedals are done, and I'm sure they will need no more modification. I'll probably also add some holes to it before it goes in for good. I also still need to deal with the torque tube, and radius rods, but I'll do that after I get the real wheels, and simulate some weight, and get ride height worked out. Also, need to mount the front wishbones, maybe I'll make some this week. Still lots to do, but it feels good to have all the bad stuff gone and be back to this point. Nothing but forward movement from here.
Thanks Bob. I'm told that's the old trick for T's, flip the later axle bells to make it a spring in front of axle. It'll probably make my shock mounting a little tricky, but I'll figure something out.
I didn't really feel like doing any fab work today, so instead I decided to open up the engine to see what I am really dealing with. I have opened the trans before, and that is going to need a going through. It needs a clean up and at least one gear replaced. So, I pulled off the heads and intake to have a look. Looked relatively clean in there. Not sure it's ever been rebuilt, but still in pretty good shape. Carbon build up as to be expected. There are no visible cracks in the block which I liked. I was worried about what I would find under the intake because the trans had water in it, and the engine didn't have a carb on it when I got it, but did have a rag stuffed in it. Didn't find and evidence of water in there, just kind of gunky, everything should be fine after a clean up.
Engine looks pretty good. I set the rearend in my hot rod up the same way, but what I found is that I needed a panhard bar to control lateral movement. Aside from that it handles & drives okay.
Interesting. What is the rest of your suspension like? Using Torque tube and radius rods? @chessterd5
No torque tube. It's a 9in. with a homemade Ladder bar suspension. your's may not move around as much as mine though.
That'll put your rear back about 7.5" behind the spring-over location. It's tough to mount/unmount the spring, FYI. Treat yourself to a nice spring spreader that will clear the pinion.
Messed with the engine some more today. Got the trans pulled off and engine on the engine stand. It looks like this project is no different from every other project I've ever had, and I'll be digging into it more then planned. I pulled the pistons, and had broken piston rings on 6 pistons, but cylinders all look fine. I was hoping to not take the valve train out, but there is one stuck valve, not stuck solid, but stuck none the less. And, the block is really gunky, so I need to take everything out of the block and get it hot tanked, and obviously survey my valve situation. This is my first flathead build, so as long as I'm this far inside the engine, is there anything I should go ahead and do to it? This is supposed to be a budget build, but may be worth making some improvements at this point. I'm open to suggestions.
I've got a My First Flathead - NOW WHAT? thread going, but I suggest the new Tardel Bishop Flathead book. I'm using a combination of stock internals, porting, and putting it back together topped with 2 or 3 94s.
If it were me, id be inclined to just replace the valves and all with a new kit, particularly if they are old style. BUT if you just want to do the one, there's still a little bit of NOS stuff out there.
That's what I'm thinking I'll do, is the whole set as long as I'm in here. They are the old style valves. I was wondering if there are any worthwhile upgrades I should do while I'm in there, such as put in later style valves or anything like that.
I bet there is a ton of money that can be spent on Flathead valve work. Just like metal finishing vs a coat of Bondo, it depends on what you want the finished product to be. Bob
You can get a full kit, soup to nuts, of stock, late, and stainless valves from 3rdgen auto on epay. Pm me and I'll show you. Im on mobile now and it'll be easier from my desktop tomorrow. That's my plan as far as my 8ba valves go anyway.
I have been following your 54 build and decided to check this build. I love anything to do with custom fabrication , body or chassis. Been at this for 40 years and I still pickup great ideas or tips. I really like the mount brackets and cross member pieces and that your riveting them for a original factory appearance. I have never seen the process of installing the rivets in person. If possible could you show that process and maybe where a person could purchase the tools [ if special] and the rivets themselves? Most of my chassis's are more modern in nature, but I would still find the process of great interest and others that are building more traditional stuff can use the info to take their projects to the next level! Great work Larry
Sorry the progress on the '54 build has been slow (or rather non existent), but I'm concentrating on this car right now and will be back at the '54 afterwards. Thanks, I generally try to make things look like they could have been done at the factory. To be honest with you, this will be the first time I'll be doing real rivets in a frame. Previously, I've just put dummy rivets on things that were welded on in one way or another. I can definelty show the process though. The only things I bought was bits for the rivet gun for 1/4" and 5/16" rivets. I'm going to use the rivet gun from the shop, and I machined my own bucking bar. But, here are a couple of resources on where to get the tools, and rivets. Although I got my rivets from McMaster Carr. http://bigflatsrivet.com/tools.html https://www.brattons.com I got my bits from Brattons, but I think Big Flats has them too, and maybe for cheaper. Also, on the Big Flats website, it has instructions on how to rivet. I won't be bucking the rivets until I have all the brackets on the frame finished, but hopefully that won't be too long. So, back to current, I've been disassembling the engine to get the block cleaned up, in preparation for the rebuild. I have been helping a friend meet a deadline at his shop the last couple weekends, but worked in a little T time. Got the block stripped down, but didn't get any photos. I'm sure you've all seen a flathead block anyway. I went to the shop today and made a cam bearing tool, and removed the bearings. The tool worked great. With the block ready for the hot tank, it was time to turn my attention to the trans. It went pretty smooth for the most part, but she didn't want to completely cooperate. The input shaft didn't want to come out of the mainshaft, but was finally convinced to let go. So, now I'll send the trans case out to the hot tank along with the engine block. In the meantime, I'll go through the internals to see what needs replacement. Most likely a lot, since there was water in this trans before and a bit of rust developed in there. And the ends of some of the teeth on my mainshaft, are chipped.
Very cool T! You've definitely got the design and fab work down. Love those mount brackets. Looking forward to updates.
Thanks @hotrodA I haven't updated in a bit. There hasn't been much to photograph, but I've still been plugging away on the car a bit. As it turned out, I needed a bore on my block, so that has been at the machine shop. And since then I decided to go ahead and put a bit more into the engine. My new pistons are on the way, as are a new cam and some headers. I got the parts I needed for my trans rebuild, and got it back together. I also got my steering box flange cut off, and machined the housing in preparation for a new flange. I disassembled the body panels, and got them all cleaned up, so I can start on the sheetmetal stuff. I started bringing some of the body panels back into shape, but don't haven photos yet. And finally, I machined some bulk off of my flywheel to lighten it up some, and now I can take it to the machine shop to be resurfaced. I really want to hit this hard and get something running pretty soon, so hopefully there will be some more updates soon.
Worked on getting everything placed today, so that I could get my steering box and pedal placement correct. I couldn't help throwing the intake and grill shell on for a bit of mockup fun. Once I get the placement of those items finalized, I'll get to work on the sheetmetal.
Tinwork looks a lot better, was the drivers door added or is that a Canadian body? Don't think I've ever seen a '30 shell on a T, that one sits very well. Bob
Someone added the driver door. They just cut the beaded section out and put it on a couple of cupboard hinges. I'm going to put it back to stock. Yea, I kinda like the '30 shell on there, so I think it's gonna stay.
The Jalopy Journal
