Anyone done it? Got a 230 in my '54 plymouth with the powerflite. Just got it running and the brakes done. Trying to build a daily driver. This is the second 1bbl carb and probably needs a rebuild. So I'm thinking about a cheap reliable upgrade. I was noticing on the Jeep 4x4 sites there are guys putting them on their sixes with great results even when they use the 1bbl to 2bbl adaptor. Seems there are a lot of used ones out there from sb fords cheap. I would think they would be about right cfm wise(maybe a little more). I had one on my 74' ranchero with the 400 v8. It started leaking, I rebuilt it and never had to adjust it again. It would start up right away at -30f or 100f. I had a 4bbl intake for it I never installed cause the 2100/2150 worked so well and it lit up the tires plenty. I figure I can hide it under the air cleaner so it should still look old school. Anyone done this?
If you go to www.fordsix.com you'll find lots of guys using the Autolite 2bbl on their engines with good results. Do a search; there are a couple of different carb configurations. The only big downside is that there's not a good source for jets, so tuning is limited, but most of these things work pretty well as is.
I put one on my CJ with a 1bbl to 2bbl adapter. Prior to the install I did a "nutter" bypass and the Junkyard Genius mod to my distributor/ignition. The combination of these mods is amazing.....the Jeep runs strong, smooth, and efficiently. I have gone from about 14 mph average to 17. The carb was the final mod, but it replaced the computer controlled Carter which was a piece of crap. I installed the carb, opened the mixture screws two turns and started the engine. It died one time due to insufficient idle, but I opened the butterflies slightly and restarted it. It made an amazing difference. After adjusting the mixture screws it ran MUCH smoother than the original carb. It has more power and better fuel economy as I stated before. I would recommend one of these to anyone. It's an easy mod which produced great results for me.
What adapter did you use? There are so many. I have plenty of hood clearance so height isn't an issue, taller might be better. I just wonder which will flow the best since I hope to do dual exhaust as well. I'm having trouble getting the 1bbl carter to idle at a reasonable rpm and to keep fuel in the bowl after I shut it off. Probably needs a rebuild but I'd rather upgrade while at it.
Sorry, I don't know a model number..... I bought the carb nearly new, with all the adapters and junk in a box.
So I got the 2100 mounted and the flatty runs great!!! I have to figure out the linkage though. I need to find non billet options for parts for the linkage. Ideas? It would have almost been a bolt on swap but the linkage pulls when it needed to push. I flipped it around the other way and everything else had better clearance. I noticed that there were some dual carb setup that pulled from the center which would work for the 2100. Carlos at BFIC was awesome, got me info, got me gaskets and rebuild kit. It's nice dealing with somebody who doesn't just look up my car on the computer and tells me that the carb I have isn't for that car.
rocknroad: what is the size of the venturi? (cast in the carb body behind the accelerator pump rod?) sizes varied from .98 to 1.33. 190 cfm to 424 cfm. i think you made a wise choice of carbs - easy to find, easy to rebuild and come in many different sizes. best of luck...jack
It's a 1.14 cast into the side. The carb was supposed to need a rebuild, but it runs so much better than it did before. Idles smoother than with the b and b even with old gas. I'm trying to only do modifications that could have been done pre '64. I've had many of these on fords I've owned over the years. Cheap reliable and plentiful!
I recall the original floats being treacherous in them, i assume the replacements have solved the 'soaking' problem and i believe they have a peculiar spring/clip arraingement that secures the float to the needle & seat, if you don't clip it the entire float will rise and make contact with the top plate of the carb and that won't let the needle & seat operate right. Just giving you a headsup if you have to go inside, the spring/clip thing is easy to miss.
[QUOTE=oj;I recall the original floats being treacherous in them, i assume the replacements have solved the 'soaking' problem and i believe they have a peculiar spring/clip arraingement that secures the float to the needle & seat, if you don't clip it the entire float will rise and make contact with the top plate of the carb and that won't let the needle & seat operate right. Just giving you a headsup if you have to go inside, the spring/clip thing is easy to miss. i agree. attention to detail...jack
So I got her running...the starter gave out...but not before I lit up the tires trying to straighten out the bumper with a tow strap!
Ok the carb works great until it runs out of fuel... When I hit the gas too hard the see through fuel filter goes empty and the engine stalls. Is it time for an electric fuel pump? It smokes the tires if I bring it up slow but if I slam it it stalls. Sometimes when it sits for a week the see through fuel filter gets empty and it it takes longer for the car to start. I think the fuel pump might be the issue, but the new carb might breath/flow better and the fuel pump might not provide the fuel needed. Ideas?
Here is a good read on using the adapter, go to item 15. http://classicinlines.com/CarbChoice.asp#2V They recommend using the 1.01 or 1.02 which are around 240 cfm. I used to hoard 2100 1nd 2150 carbs. I sold off a dozen or so this summer but I saw jets in the mid 40s to high 50s. I have heard you can buy a tap and rethread them to use holley jets too. I'm running a pair of 98s, never looked at the jet size when I rebuilt them though. They are the early style with a check ball on the accelerator pump instead of the little diaphram. Easy to tell because they have a screw on top of the accelerator pump protrusion.
From what you described it's possible you could have both a carb(accelerator pump?) issue and a fuel supply problem.
The accelerator pump seems to squirt just fine as long as there is fuel in the bowl. When it sits the gas seems to drain out of the see through filter. Is there an issue with the check valve in the fuel pump? I crank it over for awhile and it starts right up as soon as gas is seen in the filter
In 1956 Plymouth and Dodge offered an optional 2bbl carb on the 230. If you look you can still find the manifolds from time to time on swap sites and meets. They used the carter that was on the small v8' of the period 270 to 318. The factory HP for the single bbl engine was 125, the 2bb was spec'd at 132. I do not believe any other mods to CR or cam were made. So an 8hp increase with no other changes. you might want crank in a couple degrees of advance over factory to take advantage of the increase in fuel.
blow some low pressure compressed air from the fuel pump inlet back to the fuel tank. The tank pick up has a scintered brass filter in the end. The air will blow any rust and gunk out of and away from the pickup. There is a simple fuel flow test you can do. But you need as assistant. Disconnect the fuel lie from the carb and direct the flow into a suitabel container. Pull the coil wire and have an assistant turn the engine ove withthe starter. Count the fuel pulses goin into the container. 12 strokes should gibe you about 6 to 8 ounces. If its less, you have a blockage. there is also a brass screen in the fuel pump that gets clogged.
I'll try that! I tried to drain the tank from the fuel pump side while the car was pointed steeply downhill. I got my air compressor and pressurized the gas tank using a rag and air blower. I just got a drip drip drip drip out the other end. Pickup might be blocked
Ok made a bracket out of 4x4, got some 1/4" rod and forged a longer throttle rod. Now it runs great but stalls. See through filter goes empty. Going to check and see if the gas cap is vented. Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
So i vented the gas cap with a couple of holes. That solved the problem until I can get a proper vented one or make the gas tank vented. Rebuilt the carb and tuned it. I think the jets might be too big. The mixture screws are all the way in (leanest). But that's where it runs the best. Sounds real throaty for a six. Now rewire!!! Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
The main jets have no effect on idle and low load/RPM running. I would check the float level. The most accurate way to do that is to remove the carb top plate, start the engine, measure from the gasket surface at the top of the carb to the level of the fuel in the bowl.
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