The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 61 chevy, Jun 20, 2010.
is 200 water temp too high for a 283 c i stock engine on a 92 degree day???
What thermostat do you have in it ??? if a 180 ,,thats normal ,,but still pretty warm ,,,put a 160 Stat in it and you'll get the temp done to 170-180 in slow traffic ,,
i think its normal, my motor get to 210 sitting in traffic, but it does come down when the stat opens. i say you are fine, others may say different.
200 F is no problem, with a pressure cap.
200 degrees is a little high, IMO. Room for improvement.
Geez Larry, you go on and on.
I drove Henrietta the '38 Ford pickup to church this morning. It was about 100 degrees when I came out of church. Almost 20 mile drive home, 307 Chevy with 160 degree thermostat. Temp gauge got up to about 190 when I was backed up in traffic at a red light that held a long time. Other than that, it stayed on about 175 the whole time.
Synthetic oil in the pan will make it run a little cooler......
I have a 180 thermo in my SBC powered 52 F1 Ford (yea I know) and it runs 180 all the time,OE radiator too
....... from another thread
Most people have been led to believe that 180-190 degrees is ideal, so they start to panic at about 200 degrees. Wrong. If we assume that your cooling system can maintain an operating temperature within about a 30 degree range under most driving conditions, then you should select a thermostat that will keep the operating range in the 190 to 200 degree range. Parts failure on a properly maintained engine should not be a consideration until water temperatures reach 250 degrees or higher.
General Motors Performance Parts
Frequently Asked Questions
don't get me started
Thermostats once they are open don't know whether they are a 160 or a 180 on a hot day if the cooling system is not capable of keeping it any cooler than 200 degrees, where they really shine is in the winter when you want to force it to run to the rating of the stat. Really the only concern in the summer is to make sure that they do open fully. If 200 concerns you, you need to concentrate on more cooling capacity.
I agree. The temp rating of the thermostat is what it keeps the engine UP to not what it keeps it down to. I see 200 as just up to good operating temp and not overheating. Remember that boiling is 212 and each lb of pressure on the cap raises the boiling point of the coolant 3 degrees. The percentage of antifreeze/summer coolant raises that boiling point even more.
The main thing is that your thermostat should open at the rating that it has. If you run a 180 stat then it should open at 180. Beyond that it depends on the rest of the cooling system to maintain that temp. If the temp goes up to 200 in traffic and drops back to just above the rating of the thermostat on the open road you probably have things pretty good with it and no worries.
Is the fan doing it's job effectively?
Is there a restriction for air in or in front of the radiator. Check the radiator for bugs and other stuff in or on the fins. Is the grill or what serves as a grill blocking air to the radiator?
Is the inside of the radiator and engine in good shape and clean?
Is the temp gauge reading accurately?
I have always gone by the theory that if the vehicle isn't puking coolant or running bad it isn't hot.
All very good info, and I don't disagree with any of it, yet one thing not mentioned is; the location of the temperature sending unit. You see, early small blocks all had the gauge hooked up near the thermostat in the intake, but later heads (after '67) have pipe plugs in the sides so there is the option of monitoring the hot spot of the system, which is by the exhaust valve (this is what the factory started doing then). This spot will see a much greater fluctuation depending on load, air speed over the cooling fins, rpm, etc. I think it'd be cool to have a gauge in both places for comparison sake (especially in a rod with room for a lot of gauges), but alas, early heads aren't drilled for it.
A newer 5 or 7 blade clutch fan might help cool it down also..... So what if it's not period correct... You can always bolt on the old 4 blade version for car shows...
DING! DING! DING! We have a winner........................
Ways to lower coolant temp:
1. More efficient fan, as close as practical to the radiator.
2. Right size and correctly flowing radiator with correctly sized & operating thermostat.
3. Fan shroud correctly installed.
4. Correct timing & advance setting.
5. Engine coolant galleys open and clean.
6. clean engine with no impediments to air flow.
Yes, it's too high. I wouldn't be happy with that. 200's not too hot. But on a 92 degree day, it leaves little "room" for a hotter day or bad traffic. I'd sure want it lower, so there's "room" for hotter conditions
Got it fixed yet??? Let us know how it turns out.
200..mmm i would be happier to see it not top over 195..what happens when the stat opens? does it drop to 180 or 190 or does it stay at 200?
Also, is that 200 at town driving speed or 200 sitting at a long stoplight in traffic? How much hotter ambient temp are you gonna have to worry about there? (sorry didn't look at the location...)
If it never gets past 200 while sitting in traffic, I'd say you're LUCKY.
my 455 on a hot day in traffic would get to 220*, no higher. had a 180* thermostat and a pressure relief cap. the car didnt seem to mind
yeah i agree..if it dont go past it than i think yer good to go
hell some of the newer sbc's run 210..i know thats due to the electronics and all these days but i think yer golden at 200 sitting
Some of my friends are late model dirt baller racers ,,and Sprint Car Guys ,,they don't run a whole thermostat ,,the bust the guts out and just run the ring ,,just enough to slow the water flo down so it cools ,,SO ,,i've done the same thing in my blown 355 SB in my '27 T ,,it's 100 degrees out today ,,and with my Speedway 4 core aluminum radiator & electric fan ,,,,sitting in stop n go 5 mph traffic in Branson ,MO,,it don't go over 180 degrees ,,cools to 160+ runnin' back home at 50 mph ,,BUT ,,i also run premium coolant and a 16 pound pressure cap ,,most old radiators won't accept more than 6 to 10 pound pressure cap ,,or you'll blow the seams outa those old radiators ,,so ,,one key is to run the best coolant money can buy ,,Speedway sells a coolant additive too ,,it will take 10 to 20 degrees outa the temp,,
there's lotsa tricks out there that racers do ,,
And don't forget the wonderful stuff that passes as an excuse for fuel these days...think it doesn't affect operating temps...???
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