200 4r,,,,???????

Picked this up today. Guy could just call it a 200. It looks to old to be metric but the pan doesn't look like what I have found in my research. The lockup cable seems mechanical(in pic). I am hoping that the bell housing is the dual Buick/Chevy bolt pattern. No ID tag to be found. This is what I was hoping to put behind a stock 250. Any thoughts or input is appreciated before I get knee deep in this one. Thanks in advance. Squirrel I hope your still up,,,,,,,,,,,

 

looks like a turbo 350 to me

 

I don't believe that is an overdrive transmission. It looks to me like a Turbo 350 3 speed. Gm made a metric non overdrive transmission after that, but I'm pretty sure they were stamped with "metric" on the pan.

 

X3


Go figure, the whole page didn't come up. #3 Turbo 350

 

and just to top of the misery, it's a BOP bellhousing won't bolt up to a chevy.

 

Buick-Olds-Pontiac turbo 350. With the black paint I'd say it went though a rebuild shop at least once.

 

Anybody need a BOP 350?????

 

The Chevy pattern and dual pattern have kind of a point at top middle with a bolt hole there. The dual also has those ears on each side -

 

Adapters are pretty cheap, if you want to use it.

 

Any Hambers making money on adapters for this BOP to Chevy. I would rather get it here from people who know what they they are selling,,,,cause right now I am frustated and apparently don't know what I am buying,,,,Thanks

 

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Chevy-to-BOP-Transmission-Adapter-Plate,3281.html

 

Gimpyshotrods ,,,,THANKS,,,, and its only 40 bucks. Any special precautions on using the adapter? Just guessing that the starter and factory torque coverter shouldn't have any issues.

 

You're welcome. No issues with the adapter. I have used them on many an occasion. I can score BOP transmissions for cheap, because they "don't fit" a Chevy. Silliness.

The flex plate stays in the same relationship to the starter. The torque converter ends up 1/8" out of the pump, but this is not a problem. Bolt up, and go.

 

I hope you're not going to try to use that transmission as it is...it looks like a mess. The input shaft is covered with dirt, that means it's full of dirt in the front pump.

You're learning a lot, unfortunately you're learning it the hard way. You might want to ask before you buy?

 

Morning guys(,,,I work nights....). The rust on the input shaft is just on the surface. There is not much pitting. It was "supposedly" rebuilt and never used. The one thing I did note is the fluid looks to be very fresh. Haven"t opened it but I took some fluit out through the dipstick hole. After putting it through a fine paint strainer there were no contaminants and did not have any burnt smell. Hoping these are good signs.

 

Rebuilt, never used transmissions don't have fluid in them.

 

I may have just gotten lucky. Took my BOP to a guy down the road that rebuilds trannys. Turns out he is needin one, He traded me straight up for one he took off the shelf. His had not been rebuilt yet but he says he'll stand behind it. Claims he took it of a running car himself. He took the pan off the one I had says it was probably run for just a short while cause everything he was looking for was in good shape. Thanks again for everyone's input.

 

Did you get a 200-4R? or just a chevy Th350?

Hopefully, it'll work for you...

 

It has the pan with 16 bolts and the right shape from the above diagram.

 

Ya done good.

 

The 4 speed overdrive Chevy/GM automatics use a lock up converter that is electrically controlled. You will need an after market conversion "kit" available from most of the companies that sell wiring harnesses. Cable adjustment is also critical. Before you drive the car anywhere you need to insure that everything is set up correctly. Your new friend at the transmission shop will know what to do. Set up right you will never have a problem. Set up wrong and you can fry the transmission in a few minutes of normal driving. An expensive lesson to learn the hard way.

 

Good info Bib Overalls. I was gonna use a lockup kit that works with the brake light switch, but he told me the 250 that is going in is already set for this at the throttle. Does this sound right?

 

if 'm not mistaken, the proper set up uses the 4th gear pressure switch along with a vacuum switch to activate the TCC, the brake switch releases it.

+1 on the TV cable adjustment. i just had a guy in here who was convinced that he needed his trans rebuilt because of the awful slip in 1st and 2nd. turned out to be TV cable adjustment. left unchecked it would have caused a burned up tranny. i now have a very happy customer.

 

No you don't ..
Just put a two prong sender in the 4th gear port in the valve body. Run one wire to the l/u solenoid and ground the other solenoid wire..
Run a wire from the 4 prong connector inside the case, to the other tab on the sender. ***Or use a single sender that grounds under pressure and ground the solenoid that way.

Run an ignition switched feed wire through a brake light switch that "breaks" when you step on the pedal, and then to the matching prong outside the trans case.

When you slow for a stop, the trans will lose 4th gear pressure and the l/u conv. will disengage...or if you hit the brakes quick it will come out that way.

You can add a toggle switch to the system , so you won't use 4th l/u around town at 40 mph. Just turn the whole thing on for the freeway.

If you want to get really involved, you can get a vacuum "break" switch from an 80's C10 carbed lock up truck. Run the feed through that too and it'll kick the lock up out when you stab the throttle..It will resume itself in about 15 seconds.

We're hot rodders here..Supposed to be doing this stuff ourselves, right?

 

Markyac your damn straight about doing it ourselves. Now I am off to get a Latin translating dictionary to figure out what you told me,,,LOL

 

heh...I understood every word. And I never took Latin, even though my grandma taught it (she even helped write a text book)

 

I hope evry one understood it was sarcasm on my part. Basically he is making the kit I was ready to pay for. I appreciate the advice and especially the details. So many ways to skin the same cat I guess. Knowlegde is power,,,soon to be horsepower.

 

uh yeah...
while i appreciate the "real hot rodders don't buy kits" deal, i still use and recommend them for my customers. why? because there is no guessing and they come with printed instructions.

SOooo....
MarkyAC... Howzabout a wiring diagram???

THAT would not only be a super big help for 50styline, but would shut my big trap

 

That original transmission you had looked like a dual pattern, so you could have used it behind the 250.
Now, with the 200-4r, make sure you use a linkage corrector kit on the throttle to get the proper geometry on the TV cable activation(more latin). There are diagrams online if you need to make the corrector yourself.