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Technical 2 part spray paints.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Blue One, Nov 25, 2014.

  1. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,175

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Wondering what the consensus is on the 2 part catalyzed spray paints that are available.
    Have you used them and if so are they good in terms of finish quality ?
    Any elevated danger in spraying like 2 part paints you mix yourself and spray from a gun ?
    They have a red button that you press into the bottom of the can to mix the 2 parts.

    NRL.jpg
     
  2. belair
    Joined: Jul 10, 2006
    Posts: 8,766

    belair
    Member

    New to me. I guess you have to use the whole can after you mix it? What is the advantage over Krylon, etc?
     
  3. They work well in my experience. They have the same level of danger as spraying with a gun as the hardeners are still isocyanates. You obviously have to use an entire can in one go or it hardens in the can. The only real advantage they have over spraying with a gun is you don't have to clean up a gun.
     
  4. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,175

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    The advantage I could see would be a harder more durable paint, being a catalyzed epoxy finish.
    I was wondering on the possibility of using something like this rather than having smaller parts powder coated.
     

  5. unkamort
    Joined: Sep 8, 2006
    Posts: 1,014

    unkamort
    Member

    Haven't tried it myself but...There are a coupla really goofy how to's (guitar body and bike tank) for the Roth brand of 2-part paint on u-tube. They state you can keep part of a can in the fridge for a day or two. The finished products did look real nice.
     
  6. I am a firm believer. I painted my rearend (well not literally) with the 2K primer and 2K paint from Eastwood. The gloss and hardness is great and it's the same as the chassis painted in Urethane out of gun. The rear and backing plates used $60 of product. A body shop guy may think that is a lot, but I didn't have to buy reducer, mix, load a gun, clean up etc.

    I just wish I would have kept more small parts back from the body shop (bones, front axle, tie rods,brackets etc.) as this ate up some labor for the guy to prep and spray.

    All my 34 chassis parts will get sprayed with this stuff.

    [​IMG]
     
    loudbang likes this.
  7. Terrible80
    Joined: Oct 1, 2010
    Posts: 783

    Terrible80
    Member

    Cleared my H-D tank and fenders with it ,7 years ago (Damn! Time Flies!) Looks great, no discoloring, peeling, fading, etc.
     
  8. KLGreen
    Joined: Feb 16, 2014
    Posts: 17

    KLGreen
    Member
    from Kansas

    The first time I used them was when I was in the USCG, we would use a two part rattle can for touch up work on the C-130s. Probably some of the best rattle can paint I've ever used. Recently I've used a clear that was in a two part can to clear a helmet. It worked great, it didn't need it but it buffed out real nice too.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  9. As previously stated I use them all the time in my job as a maintenance engineer, they are good for long wearing surface etc, but they do chip. As with any paint they have their draw backs, in particular the need for proper protective/breathing equipment. But with any good paint job the secret is in the prep.
     
  10. SimonSez
    Joined: Jul 1, 2001
    Posts: 1,632

    SimonSez
    Member

    Who has these in NZ?
     
  11. Sorry:rolleyes: not the rattle can type but two pots in general
     
  12. SimonSez
    Joined: Jul 1, 2001
    Posts: 1,632

    SimonSez
    Member

    Ah bugger :)

    The Eastwood 2k spray-cans are locally available but expensive by the time they get here (over $50 per can)
     
  13. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,175

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    I've found that I can get some 2 part rattle cans in the color I plan to use on the chassis and the body too. I had originally thought to powder coat some of the parts, but the painting them myself idea is attractive.
    Powder coat costs can add up and I can't somehow see myself doing my own powder coat.
     
  14. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 38,667

    loudbang
    Member

    Why not you have been doing real good up to this point doing your own thing. :p
     
  15. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 8,283

    theHIGHLANDER
    Member

    How much is a can of black? Also, does anyone realize how little paint there is in a rattle can? In the standard size, maybe 4oz of paint and the rest is solvent and propellant.
     
  16. I did a fair amount powder coat as well. Here's my booth, I used a cast iron gray, and did the motor mounts, shackles, small brackets etc. The largest part was my bellhousing. This worked great as well. Super easy and nice results. You just need a craigslist oven ($25)
    [​IMG]


     
  17. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,175

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    :D He sticks his tongue out at me :D:D
    Maybe I should try powder coating :)
     
  18. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,175

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Is your oven in the shop ? If so how do you find it for the fumes while baking the powder coat ?
    Up here I can generally get a used stove for free.
    Hmmmm :)
     
  19. Yes, I used my buddies oven in my shop. Low odor, I had the door cracked a little, mostly like a hot oven smell, certainly less than spray. I have a few more pics in the thread in my signature.

     
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  20. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,175

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    I like the pictures in your build thread. I've actually been following along.
    Looks like I may have to scoop an oven and learn a bit about powder, baking time and temperature and all that.
    A local tool store even has the Eastwood powder coating stuff on sale. :cool:
    Any pointers you want to throw my way would be caught like a dog after a pork chop bone :D
    Larry.
     
  21. For home coating blasting parts gives a good surface for adhesion.
    Good grease removal, acetone, or lacquer thinner.
    Pre-heating parts works well to make sure parts are dry and to get powder to flow
    Pre-make some wire hooks, conduit works good for hanging and grounding.
    Cardboard spray box worked good. Dumpster dive to get one at the recylcing center and return it when done.
    Use the high temp masking tape. Spendy but worth it.
    Follow instructions for cure time and temp (on the powder) but typically in the 400F range for 20 minutes.

    It's pretty hard to screw up....
     
  22. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,175

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    :cool: Good info. Thanks.
    Larry.
     
  23. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,175

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    That looks a little sketchy to me.
    Going to get an Eastwood dual voltage unit , a used oven and give it a go. :cool:
     
  24. Kevinsrodshop
    Joined: Aug 22, 2009
    Posts: 590

    Kevinsrodshop
    Member

    KMS tools has the gun and a few different colours of powder. At my store in Calgary anyway.

    Where did you find the two part paint in the first post? I've never seen that here.
     
  25. Not necessarily that particular brand but any automotive paint jobber will have two part aerosols. The most common ones in Western Canada seem to be the SprayMax ones. A jobber should be able to put any colour you want in them.

    http://www.uschem.com/index.cfm?page=products&catid=24&pid=2
     
  26. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,175

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    We are going to KMS this weekend, my missus is buying the Dual voltage one for me for Christmas, a bonus they are on sale right now too. :cool:
    Like K13 said the 2 part spray cans can be made up at most body shop paint suppliers, another source in Edmonton is Endura.
    http://www.endura.ca/spray.html
     
  27. indyjps
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 4,393

    indyjps
    Member

    I've used the 2 part cans for quick touch ups on used cars, the match results were passable for what the cars were. You'll spend a lot of money buying enough of the 2 part cans to get the job done.
    Once I bought a gun, mask, and a gallon of single stage enamel, I never looked back. I don't understand the aversion to shooting real paint. A harbor freight gun is fine for suspension, frame work. Enamel with hardener is tough stuff and very forgiving, chassis paint is even less fussy. In reality single stage NONmetallic enamel is a good choice for a lot of builds, cost effective, simple to shoot, sand out any screw up and buffs up nice, it's not like the cars are sitting in the sun rain and snow.
     
  28. 1great40
    Joined: Jan 1, 2008
    Posts: 471

    1great40
    Member
    from Walpole MA

    The 2 part spray cans are great for touch up stuff and cheaper than buying paint, hardener, reducer and solvent for cleaning a gun. I'm guessing the hot set up for touch ups would be a standard 1K spray can for the color and a 2K spray for the clear.

    I have the first Eastwood powder coating set up and though I have heard they have come a long way since mine was first sold, this thing works great. I use a re-purposed kitchen oven.
     
  29. woodbutcher
    Joined: Apr 25, 2012
    Posts: 3,269

    woodbutcher
    Member

    :eek: Just a little note on the ruggedness of powder coating.One of the sites that I frequent is
    castboolits.com,there are a bunch of the members PCing their boolits before shooting them.With excellent results.Might want to check them out.
    Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
    Leo
     

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