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Projects 1964 Rambler Classic 660

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 64-classic660, Nov 17, 2018.

  1. 64-classic660
    Joined: Nov 16, 2018
    Posts: 44

    64-classic660

    [​IMG]
    Here’s my first project I purchased not so recently. I discovered this forum and gained a little confidence to start back at it. I’ve been extremely intimidated by this project as it is my first and my experience as a mechanic has been limited to a 1981 c-10 and my now 1995 GMC Sierra.

    As well this 64 doesn’t seem to have been disassembled ever other than what I’ve removed and carefully labeled and documented. I’ve purchased the Technical service manual. And a collision parts catalog. The catalog practically of no use.

    Engine is seized up, so first order of business is seeing if I can get her loose. Got it soaking today, now prob on 80/20 mix of acetone and used trans fluid.

    1st thing I’d like to get input on is and anything anyone might like to add feel free. Is there any other methods besides cranking on the harmonic balancer bolt?
    I’ve tried this on the 81 I mentioned and was able to get the bolt to split coil around the threads. Lucky I caught it before I broke it.

    Could I fabricate a piece of angle iron “drill two holes in it” to accommodate the two bolts around the circumference of the harmonic, bolt to that and use that instead of the center bolt for leverage? Plus It would give me the ability to turn it clockwise or counter clockwise. Maybe if need be even use a floor jack on it; which I know would prob be way excessive force than what would be healthy, but its a thought.

    But hey here’s some pics, only thing I seem to be missing is my air filter housing, rear glass and taillights covers. I have all the trim and Crome down to the hubcaps and spare tire.

    Please excuse my ignorance, misspelling run on sentences and vague understanding of parts and names in advance.

    Thanks! [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]


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  2. goldmountain
    Joined: Jun 12, 2016
    Posts: 4,442

    goldmountain

    Go to an auto parts store and ask for a flywheel turning tool. They are not that expensive and work if you have a straight shot at the flywheel from under the car. If the bellhousing goes directly under the flywheel, it won't work.

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  3. sunbeam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2010
    Posts: 6,213

    sunbeam
    Member

    I was hoping to see a 327
     
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  4. nickleone
    Joined: Jun 14, 2007
    Posts: 463

    nickleone
    Member

    vintage6t and 64-classic660 like this.

  5. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,222

    F&J
    Member

    ATF acetone or lacquer thinner mix is good, let it sit in the cylinders with plugs in to stop evaporation over a few days.

    Skip using the front damper to turn it. That could certainly work if it is barely stuck, as sometimes they can be. But, I'd pull the starter out and use a bar on the teeth, just a tweak in each direction, don't force the crap out of it, just try to gain a little in each direction...but, I always make sure the valves are not stuck first. Grab each rocker with big channel lock plies or whatever, to see if you can move each valve.

    .
     
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  6. evintho
    Joined: May 28, 2007
    Posts: 2,363

    evintho
    Member

    Brings back memories. My first running ride was a '62 Rambler 2 door. Paid $40 for it. Drove it for a week before I rolled it over whilst dirt riding on an old fire road...…...sigh.
     
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  7. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,355

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    Not a really common project, but a worthy one nonetheless....keep at it. it...they are tastefully styled and decently engineered cars. Stay with it!
     
  8. 64-classic660
    Joined: Nov 16, 2018
    Posts: 44

    64-classic660

    Honestly, I don’t even know what I got here brother.


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  9. 64-classic660
    Joined: Nov 16, 2018
    Posts: 44

    64-classic660

    I didn’t get her that cheap, I paid a few bills towing included though. Jaha.


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  10. 64-classic660
    Joined: Nov 16, 2018
    Posts: 44

    64-classic660

    Yea I noticed, should probably put the spark plugs back in. Prematurely thought it was penetrating then realized it was probably evaporating. Initially Filled them up all the way till it overflowed figured I could monitor them better. Guess not. Plugs going back in tomorrow!


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  11. 64-classic660
    Joined: Nov 16, 2018
    Posts: 44

    64-classic660

    I’ve been under her before I need to put it back up on jack stands or make those fancy 2x4 blocks I see people using. I have about 4 sets of stands but I hate using them, never feel like I can get them in the wright place. But last time I looked, don’t think I have a clear shot but I’ll be sure to look into it. Thanks for the advice on the flywheel turning tool!


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  12. 64-classic660
    Joined: Nov 16, 2018
    Posts: 44

    64-classic660

    Thanks Nick I’ll be sure to do that. Doesn’t look like they have a convenient mobile platform to navigate through such as this one. But prob neither is this project.


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  13. s55mercury66
    Joined: Jul 6, 2009
    Posts: 4,335

    s55mercury66
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    I also had a friend who had one of those, in green, just like yours. Powere primarily by Stroh's, it too rolled over one night back in 1981.
     
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  14. 64-classic660
    Joined: Nov 16, 2018
    Posts: 44

    64-classic660

    Hope I get this gal to turn over not roll over.


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  15. You may want to pull the drain plug from the oil pan and see where al of your mix went, probably about full. Then put the drain plug back in and re-fill them and see where it goes.
     
  16. Mac VP
    Joined: May 13, 2014
    Posts: 462

    Mac VP
    Member

    The AMC forum is definitely a good resource. Be patient in starting in as a member.....you will be able to read all the posts and to make your own fresh posts but they restrict you from posting pictures until you’ve made at least 30 of your own posts. Any quick reply to anyone else’s posts qualifies towards the 30 count. I guess it keeps things focused.....

    They also have very good technical posts and tech stickies. Great fellowship from others who either have parts to spare or can direct you in a search. I was able to find everything I needed to come up with the rally wheels I wanted for my OT ‘73 Hornet hatchback.
     
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  17. vintage6t
    Joined: Jul 30, 2007
    Posts: 373

    vintage6t
    Member
    from CT

    That's a Rambler 196 in there. 1st gen ohv derived from a flathead block. The heads are very prone to cracking if the head bolt torque is not maintained on a regular basis.

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  18. 64-classic660
    Joined: Nov 16, 2018
    Posts: 44

    64-classic660

    Appreciate it! Dang 30, they really gotta make sure your committed before you start flashing pictures. I guess I’ll need to get started, not that pictures are always necessary anyways. Thanks for the tip!


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  19. 64-classic660
    Joined: Nov 16, 2018
    Posts: 44

    64-classic660

    You the man, thanks brother that obviously helps my research as you could imagine.


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  20. goldmountain
    Joined: Jun 12, 2016
    Posts: 4,442

    goldmountain

    You should Che k out the YouTube videos done by cold war motors. They show lots of old cars that they manage to get running.

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  21. Hyfire
    Joined: Jun 18, 2004
    Posts: 1,232

    Hyfire
    Member

    Those 195.6 six engines are bullet proof. Great engine!
     
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  22. jazz1
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,534

    jazz1
    Member

    First car i owned that i did work on was 1964 Rambler American same colour. It had a flathead six. I replaced main bearing and some other stuff (this 40 years ago) with engine in car, little more than a few wrenches, Visegrips and hammer. When done and the car started and ran I decided that qualified me enough to go to Sears and buy a tool kit on sale for $89. I had a 1963 Rambler Classic previously with similar engine to yours and a 3 on tree. Great date cars:D
     
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  23. farna
    Joined: Jul 8, 2005
    Posts: 1,282

    farna
    Member

    The old 196 is tough... but as stated, it needs the head bolts re-torqued every 10K miles, or every third year if not driven much. Has a lot to do with the fact that it was converted from a flat-head (bottom end and timing gears/chain is the same as the flat-head, but the right side of the block casting was changed a good bit above the side covers). The rather massive head with the intake bottom cast in is another reason. The head contracts and expands as much as 0.020", and the sealing areas are a bit narrow. Combined that makes the bolts loosen over time and the gasket then blows. The factory manual says to check every 8K miles, but I ran one for 14 years and just retorqued every spring. I averaged about 12K miles a year on it.

    Look for rust on the passenger side cowl just above the heater. That's a common place for them to rust out. Also along the side where the side meets the floor on BOTH sides. Not to hard to fix as that's not a really stressed area. Looks like you might have some rust on the passenger floor, which probably comes from the heater. There is a lipped hole in the cowl floor above the heater for air intake, a lot like an early Mustang (which has the same issue). You can buy a patch panel for the heater from www.amcrambler.com, or make your own. I've done both, and have a write-up on fitting thae patch panel on the AMC Forum in the body section. Also have a photo of my fabbed patch panel in that thread.
     
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  24. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 19,141

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    Me too, or at least a Rambler 327!
     
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  25. 64-classic660
    Joined: Nov 16, 2018
    Posts: 44

    64-classic660

    Yea I guess I’ll be waiting a week or two on the soak till I start pulling more parts off and out. I’m less optimistic about the condition of the engine than I prob should be. Seems pretty tied up. I tried dropping the pan so I could get a gander from underneath but that’s apparently not an option without moving the cross member the engine is mounted to so it seems.


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  26. 64-classic660
    Joined: Nov 16, 2018
    Posts: 44

    64-classic660

    Yea that concerns me a little being bulletproof and its locked up. I’m only 2days In on the soak so I should probably start scratching my head in 12days if I don’t get her to budge. I’ve also read an engine that’s seized is a good sign that the rings weren’t super worn out or something. But I don’t know nothing.


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  27. 64-classic660
    Joined: Nov 16, 2018
    Posts: 44

    64-classic660

    She’s got 99,960 miles on it not that that means anything the 305 in my gmc has 250,000+ and the 4l60e just started slipping and she hardly smokes after it’s warmed up.

    I hope I get to that point with the 195.6 where I’ll get to re torque em as prescribed. Still haven’t got on AMC forum yet. Need I need to do that in the next few days. Sort of at a stand still till I diagnose the engine. Thanks for responding to my D.M earlier!


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  28. 64-classic660
    Joined: Nov 16, 2018
    Posts: 44

    64-classic660

    I’ve also thought in taking this build in a complete opposite direction depending on the condition of my engine. But was thinking about dropping her on a panther platform with flared fender to compensate for the front and rear track width. All other dimensions seem pretty close. I used to have a 2003 mercury grand marquis and that was a fun ride till I totaled it one night. Just a pipe dream I had thought up. Still would love to keep the car as original as possible without doing the swap. Since in my opinion it’s in pretty good condition as it sits without getting chopped up.


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  29. Is the Rambler a full frame car or uni-body? Full frame, then it would work but IMO keep it all Rambler even if it means finding another engine trans combo. Then you could look around for that Rambler 327.
     
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  30. low budget
    Joined: Nov 15, 2006
    Posts: 5,566

    low budget
    Member
    from Central Ky

    Neat little car with good patina if you want to go that route, get the mechanics working good tires,wheels stance done. looks pretty straight with cleanable/usable interior too.
    This could be totaly wrong but at one time I heard some older guys saying the automatic trans would engage on these while pulled in gear like some of the older cars after a certain speed while pulling/towing to break engine loose....Ive broke several straight shift vehicles loose like this.

    Maybe someone will chime in that knows for sure.
     
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