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1964 Ford Fairlane sub frame connectors??

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Killer, Apr 27, 2005.

  1. Killer
    Joined: Jul 5, 2001
    Posts: 1,569

    Killer
    Member

    I need pics...

    PLEASE?!?!?!!!

    TIA
     
  2. Mutt
    Joined: Feb 6, 2003
    Posts: 3,219

    Mutt
    Member

  3. prime mover
    Joined: Dec 6, 2002
    Posts: 827

    prime mover
    Member

    are you building one? I was going to make my own connectors its simple.
     
  4. atch
    Joined: Sep 3, 2002
    Posts: 5,639

    atch
    Member

    ya might pm von tingler. i believe that his fairlane is a '64 and i'm pretty sure he connected the sub frames. just a thought.
     

  5. TINGLER
    Joined: Nov 6, 2002
    Posts: 3,410

    TINGLER


    Nope,
    Mines a '63 and I haven't connected the subframes.

    What I want to do is remove the floorboards and everything and make a complete tube frame with a roll cage and then set the body back down on it.........(someday)

    I've got pics of some subframe connectors someplace on file, but they are really not much to look at....just some homemade jobbies made from rectangular tubing.

    Crites is a cool place by the way. Thats where I got my fenders. Great quality on those parts fwiw....
     
  6. TINGLER
    Joined: Nov 6, 2002
    Posts: 3,410

    TINGLER

    Here's a pic I found...Maybe it will help. This is looking from the rear forward (of course)....

    [​IMG]
     
  7. TINGLER
    Joined: Nov 6, 2002
    Posts: 3,410

    TINGLER

    Here's a pic of the Crites paperwork. Its from a 66 Fairlane, but maybe it will help you get an idea....

    [​IMG]
     
  8. Cshabang
    Joined: Mar 30, 2004
    Posts: 2,458

    Cshabang
    Member

    They aren't hard to make, I believe my 65 Comet floor is similar. We've done them on a 64 Comet, 2-65 Comets, and a 65 Falcon. My advice is to cut the floor where need be(under the front seat, to about where the back seat base sits),and get them as high as you can.This way, if you put the mufflers up where the floor raises for the back seat, everything won't be hangin down. I ran mine straight back from the front rails, and if I remember correctly they were just inside the rears. At the rear, I made a small 90 degree connector piece, and capped it. Then I cut an angled piece to triangulate it. This way, you can install a rear loop if you want. Might be kinda confusing, so if you have questions just ask. Anyway I can help, let me know. I just ordered from Crites, they're service is starting to suck, as is theire quality. My father, my best friend, and myself have bought tons of stuff from them. If you do order, stay on top of them, my friend never got parts he ordered, but he paid for them. Just last week, they couldn't tell me if my order was sent out, and they didn't return, or call when they said they would. I finally got my teardrop, and the reciept was written the day before, and the fiberglass is chinsy and full of airpockets. Anyway, sorry this is long, hope it helps.

    Chris
     
  9. Killer
    Joined: Jul 5, 2001
    Posts: 1,569

    Killer
    Member

    Thanks fellas, here's how I ended up doin it...


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  10. Killer
    Joined: Jul 5, 2001
    Posts: 1,569

    Killer
    Member

    Did this too...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  11. Radshit
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 1,420

    Radshit
    Member

    Jason that looks good........Ford uni-bodies improve greatly from a little subframe connecting....
     
  12. prime mover
    Joined: Dec 6, 2002
    Posts: 827

    prime mover
    Member

    yeah nice work show us the rest of the car.
     
  13. TINGLER
    Joined: Nov 6, 2002
    Posts: 3,410

    TINGLER

    Wow Killer, I like your way better. It looks stronger and with less crap hanging under the car.
     

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