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1964 Chevy C10 Fleetside

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 1959apache, Mar 16, 2013.

  1. Cerberus
    Joined: May 24, 2010
    Posts: 1,381

    Cerberus
    Member

    Most of the truck vendors sell the Factory Assembly Manual ($29.95). I ordered mine from Brothers, when I ordered the pass side cab corner patch panel. When I get back to the SF Bay Area next week, I'll take some pix of the ebrake system and post them. It takes very little effort to set the ebrake handle which holds the truck easily on my steep driveway while setting the timing and dwell. My truck like yours has a 250 inline six. What's weird is someone must have installed a 292 oil pan, when they installed the 250, because it hold six quarts of oil.
     

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  2. redstraw
    Joined: Apr 8, 2011
    Posts: 53

    redstraw
    Member
    from tn

    great truck man hope to get mine back on the raod someday.
     
  3. 1959apache
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,627

    1959apache
    Member

    Thanks guys.

    I just spend 3 hours out in the garage getting one shock off (one bolt was hanging it up) and earlier in the day I spend another 3 hours getting the other bolts off. The bottom mount on the driver's side was holding the shock and bolt in there. All in all today I broke the other 3 bolts (1/2 inch dia.) trying to get the shocks off, each one was worse than the previous.

    The shim on the bottom of the shock was rusted to the bolt. Someone put on the wrong shocks and hardware too. One bolt and nut set was metric, the other inner diameter of the shock shim was too small, they were fully extended at normal ride height. Sweet jeebus what a pain. I have pictures of my saw zawing the shock end off and the bolt/shim as well as pounding it out with a sledge hammer.

    Oh and I was going to go ahead and install the air shocks on the ass end of the truck and found one leaking fluid into the air bladder, therefore leaking out of the air port. In addition they are not the right size shim on both ends, the top were about 1/8 inch too small (could shim that up with a washer) the bottoms are too wide (could shave them down). Seeing that one is trashed and they both would require a lot of work I am probably going to just take them back and get some stock shocks because I am tired of dicking around with these shocks. Air shocks can always come later.

    I am spent so I will post the pictures tomorrow. I will need to go through the grounds on this thing because they are a mess... I found why the brakes are half working and half aren't.. two different kinds of bulbs, wrong glass fuse, poor to no grounding, wires are spliced together with electrical tape, etc.
     
  4. 1959apache
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,627

    1959apache
    Member

    Here are a couple pictures, the camera died before I could get the rest of them. I will snap them when I go out there tonight.

    Here is an image of the epic battle between a Jap shock verses American power tools. 3 hours of my life wasted, but I won... so I am satisfied. I may keep the shock for a little while as a memento... haha

    This is only a small amount of broken hardware and other pieces that I was able to round up. The rest broke under a lot of tension and are strewn across the garage.

    [​IMG]


    This is a new carb (the dude I bought the truck from stripped a bolt in it already)......

    and this is why you need to use a fuel filter:

    [​IMG]
     
  5. 1959apache
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,627

    1959apache
    Member

    Well I got the carb cleaned out and put back together only to find that one of my tiny clips/keys broke off the metal linkage to the butterfly valve and is nowhere to be found (sometimes called a rod retainer). I cannot find a place to get them or any information online at all. Anyone have any ideas?

    Rochester Model 2b, you can see the tiny clip/key in the first picture and where the other one isnt on the following two.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  6. 64LeSabre455
    Joined: Dec 29, 2007
    Posts: 779

    64LeSabre455
    Member
    from Adkins, Tx

  7. 1959apache
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,627

    1959apache
    Member

    Yeah, I have a couple leads so far, I will check them out after work. Odds are they don't have what I need as usual. Thanks for finding that diagram I am going to print that off and keep it. I was having a hard time finding any kind of diagram last night... perhaps it was just because I was tired.
     
  8. 64LeSabre455
    Joined: Dec 29, 2007
    Posts: 779

    64LeSabre455
    Member
    from Adkins, Tx

    No problem, bored at work, and I remembered a good website for diagrams!
    Hope you find what ya need!
     
  9. outlaw256
    Joined: Jun 26, 2008
    Posts: 2,023

    outlaw256
    Member

    trucks aint my thang but that there truck would have been a hell of alot higher dollar wise here in alabama. my own cuz would have given at least 4000. for it.or even higher.he loves them thangs.ive seen some of the crap he pays high dollar for.and that would have been a feather in his cap! lol. you did good...
     
  10. 1959apache
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,627

    1959apache
    Member

    Holy crap. I ran my new vacuum line setup but still need to run the line to the transmission but plugged off that part of the vacuum line. I ran a new fuel line and filter. I rebuilt the carb and finally got it started again. I did a lot of work tonight and will post pictures later. Victory!
     
  11. 1959apache
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,627

    1959apache
    Member

    Yeah I think so! Maybe I should be selling stuff down there rather than up here :D
     
  12. 1959apache
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,627

    1959apache
    Member

    Well I replaced my thermostat gasket, valve cover gasket, rebuilt the carb, ran a new fuel line with an inline filter, cleaned up the engine, cleaned up the electrical connection with the temp sensor, ran a new vacuum line to the tranny, new rear seal on the tranny, new u-joint, slip yoke, and carrier bearing, new brakes are on the rear axle, and fixed the issues with the gauge cluster, not bad for less than 5 days worth of work on it.

    Here are some pictures of the engine compartment, I snaked the vacuum line next to the valve cover, I still need to take care of those wires before everything is said and done though. I need to test drive it and tune it in again, a tune-up will come later when I can afford it... I am out about $120 so far and that pretty much sums it up; the slip yoke was $80 of that.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  13. Cerberus
    Joined: May 24, 2010
    Posts: 1,381

    Cerberus
    Member

    1959Apache, See pix of my 1964 C10 long bed step side half ton ebrake system. Ebrake handle is pulled back and set, holding the truck from moving.
     

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  14. 1959apache
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,627

    1959apache
    Member

    Thanks for the pictures!

    So far I have taken it for a test drive, I still have a leak from the thermostat gasket, what a POS. I gooped that thing up with a ton of RTV and it is still giving me a problem.

    I am also having a problem with the tranny slamming into drive or reverse from neutral and park. I will try to check the mount to see if there is a problem with it.. I can't figure it out though.

    Also my throttle return spring broke, sending the engine revving really high shortly after startup... I shut the key off asap and it didn't harm anything. I can't get the carb to tune in correctly or idle right, so I will have to go through and give this thing a good tune up and try it again.

    The starter solenoid shorted out and I lost all power, I checked it with the meter and both posts were hot when the key wasn't in the ignition and power wasn't going from the starter anywhere, battery voltage was good and everything else was fine.

    So I went to go replace the starter, I dropped it, and found most of the wiring in the engine compartment wired by morons... no butt splices, just electrical tape and twisting wires together. Most of the other parts of the wiring had exposed wires that were also shorting to ground via the engine block. I took the harness out and fixed it, I will need to reinstall it tomorrow as well as the correct starter. The starter they had in there had all metric fittings and was shimmed up funky, which would probably explain why the solenoid was messed up. They also had a 4 inch long bolt in there dropped down from the top and the tranny cooling lines in the way, so I had to wiggle the starter out. Pain in the butt.

    I honestly don't know how I got home that day driving 80 miles like this. She rode fine though....

    The 30 minute test drive went extremely well, all of this stuff happened after I parked it, let it sit in the driveway for 5 minutes and then decided to take my wife on her first drive and it just took a shit 10 feet from the driveway
     
  15. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,161

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    Damn, buzzkill. All good tho, little more work n itll be ready to rock

    Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
     
  16. dracko
    Joined: Feb 13, 2010
    Posts: 27

    dracko
    Member
    from Canada

    Nice truck! You got a hell of a good deal. I paid the same for my swb '64 and the front fenders and floor boards are toast. Been driving it daily for 3 years now though without any major breakdowns. Those L6's go forever. Power steering is well worth the effort to install.
     
  17. 1959apache
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,627

    1959apache
    Member

    I know it, it sucks big time, I want to get back to working on my apache already and this thing is hindering me at every step. Obviously it just needs to be taken care of and likes the fact that I am actually throwing time, effort, and money into it. Not a good trend... I named the pickup Lucy because I need something to yell when it is giving me grief... this b$#%^ has an attitude for sure
     
  18. 1959apache
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,627

    1959apache
    Member

    Yeah she has a few rust issues, but nothing that I can't take care of in a weekend. I am kind of waiting to do any of this until I get her driving and running like she should. Also, I already have a couple project vehicles and I am trying to avoid this one being another. I just need something that I can put around town in. I'll have to look into power steering, the gear box and everything seems pretty tight as it is, I may just leave it alone for now.
     
  19. 1959apache
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,627

    1959apache
    Member

    thanks again for all of the help guys, I used this wiring diagram that you supplied and found my problem. I checked the horn relay and voltage regulator and was getting power to the firewall... The firewall plug was connected and had never been separated.. I removed it made sure all of the spades in both plugs were good and tight, sprayed it out with electrical terminal cleaner, plugged it back in... bingo... that fixed it.. I wiggled all of those wires before and nothing happened.. took it apart, put it together, and it worked, go figure. It fired up and ran like a champ... better than before... and I was able to tune the carb in and get it to idle correctly. That old starter I would have to crank for a good 5 count before it would even fire... now... its instantaneous!

    Also now I just barely hit the key and she starts without issue. I was also able to bump down the idle a little bit and tune it in a little better.... now it just slips into reverse and drive without dropping into gear like it was doing. I am having a weird problem though with the engine idling... it is surging like it has a vacuum problem... but I know that is not the case, I think I will do a tune-up on it (plugs, wires, points, etc.) and see if this helps. Also, I know there is a load of crap in the fuel tank and it is showing up in my clear fuel filter... I am kind of thinking that it is already plugged or at least getting there. I still need to replace the throttle return spring. She ran well. I am happy as a clam.
     
  20. If you continue to have hard to diagnose vacuum problems, you may want to check out that Rochester. The Rochester B is pretty infamous for a worn throttle shaft causing problems. If you have a fuel leak that dries up, there's a good chance the throttle shaft is worn. I know you said the carb is "new", but, if it is remanufactured, most outfits (like Holley) don't bother re-bushing the throttle shaft when they remanufacture them. I sold a number of remanufactured units and had a good portion of them come back with that problem. A good way to check for a worn throttle shaft is to pump the throttle with the engine off, fuel will commonly leak out of the throttle shaft with the engine off. With the engine running the fuel will be pulled back in to the carb, and the leak won't be aparent. If there is a leak, the throttle shaft will need to be re-bushed.

    Just a bit of friendly advice as this was a major pain in the butt when I was trying to diagnose my 292's issues.

    NICE TRUCK!

    Good luck!
     
  21. Ford52PU
    Joined: Jan 31, 2007
    Posts: 477

    Ford52PU
    Member
    from PA

    Like your truck, I had some of the same issues with PO wiring, I ended up ripping it all out and putting in a new harness. Springs coming time to enjoy it!
     
  22. 53 sparky
    Joined: Feb 22, 2013
    Posts: 131

    53 sparky
    Member

    Bodi is onto something there. Rebushing the carb on my 351M solved my idle problems too. If you don't mind getting it a bit dirty, you can temporarily seal the throttle shaft with a bit of heavy grease. If the idle improves that helps point to your problem.
     
  23. 1959apache
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,627

    1959apache
    Member

    Yeah I took this info and went out to find out what is going on and they were kind of damp, but not leaking. They probably need to be replaced, but was able to tune my carb in and lower my idle down a bit and then it finally ran normally. When it is cold out "below 50 degrees" she doesn't want to idle very well, it was 60 degrees when I tuned it in and has been 70 all weekend without any problems at all. I took my mechanical throttle linkage apart, fixed the issues, greased everything up, installed it and I adjusted it to the correct length so now my idle spring actually pulls the linkage back down to normal idle. Thanks for the help dude!
     
  24. 1959apache
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,627

    1959apache
    Member

    Yeah, most of it is unmolested, but old and brittle and fortunately where the PO made his "fixes" they are out in the open and apparent... I can't justify spending over a hundered bucks or more for a fix that will cost only $40 with the portion of the harness I need from a parts shop. I am going to buy the front engine harness that goes to the regulator today along with another regulator... After all of this electrical crap I found that the Generator light is going on, but the alternator is still charging like it should... kind of weird, but I am buying replacement stuff incase something goes wrong.
     
  25. 1959apache
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,627

    1959apache
    Member

    I finally took it to the first get together at the local drive-in diner this weekend with the wife, it ran really well... I am seeing a lot of white smoke coming out of the top of the radiator (where the fins meet the end cap). I will need to probably take it out and take it down to the radiator repair shop for them to take a look at it. I have a new radiator cap on it and it has significantly fixed my issue (cap was really bad).

    Does anyone know if these 250s run hot normally? I will have to check everything with my temp gun and install a triple gauge set under the dash
     
  26. My 6-banger trucks were mostly powered by a 235, but they always ran really cool even in hot weather. All but 1 had nothing but idiot lights.

    Bob
     
  27. 1959apache
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,627

    1959apache
    Member

    Thanks Bob, maybe crap is just burning off of the radiator, I really don't think it is the case though. Do they tend to overheat while sitting? I do not have a fan shroud... would this make the difference? I know it probably shouldn't, but ill ask anyway. I am not getting the idiot light on, just seeing VERY light steam every once in a while, especially if I am just parking it after test driving... normal people wouldn't notice, but I do. It barely smells like coolant, so not sure whats going on. I guess I can just watch it... The thermostat is new and it is the one that locks full open if it is stuck; I am getting hot coolant going to the top of the radiator and I do not have any leaks from any hose or water pump. Its just kind of strange to me.
     
  28. They didn't come with a fan shroud. Yes, a well designed one would make a difference, but, Bob is correct: these things run cool. My 292, even in 95 degree weather runs surprisingly cool. Even in traffic. I wouldn't hesitate to start it, and let it idle all day in 90 degree weather if I needed to. You may have some seperation going on in the top tank. Mine is discolored, but, doesn't steam. Personally, I'd just watch it, and if you need, get that radiator repaired. DO NOT buy a re-pop, it will be absolute JUNK compared to a stock one.
     
  29. Cerberus
    Joined: May 24, 2010
    Posts: 1,381

    Cerberus
    Member

    Well, you got my curiosity. Because the PO installed an aluminum radiator without a fan shroud in my 1964 C10 that has a 1970 250 six cyl. The assembly manual for a 1960-66 Chevy Truck shows the radiator has a fan shroud, and an extension if the truck is a CK 10-20(4x4), or a C30. See picture.

    Last month, I drove my truck on a 800 mile trip. Averaged 70-72 mph. The engine never overheated. As you can see in the second picture, the radiator does not have a fan shroud. And, I am a fan of fan shrouds. No pun intended.:rolleyes:
     

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  30. Just looked at my C10, and it definitely has never had a shroud on it. No rub marks. Now that I think about it, I've not seen any C10s with them on. Maybe it was a regional thing?

    Undoubtedly though, one would help cooling, if your'e concerned. Knowing how my truck runs, I would not be.
     

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