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Technical 1962 Chevy 283 build problem

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by stowe, Sep 2, 2019.

  1. stowe
    Joined: May 18, 2015
    Posts: 207

    stowe

    Hello, Just about wrapped up my 283 build for my 29 Tudor.I got to the last main cap bolt and it would not torque and pulled out. I am not sure what the next step would be heavy duty helicoil, maybe try a stud? I have about 2k in machine work into the engine, would love to salvage it. Any suggestions? Thanks
     
  2. Helicoils are super strong.

    Tommy
     
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  3. Hot Rods Ta Hell
    Joined: Apr 20, 2008
    Posts: 4,288

    Hot Rods Ta Hell
    Member

    Did the bolt strip or did you pull the block threads?
    After $2000 in machine work, I'd run it by your machinist.
    Did you do a tear down before you dropped it off at the machine shop or did they do the teardown?

    Even if you didn't pay the machine shop to chase all the threads in the block they should have caught that in pre machining inspection, same as they would a compromised cylinder, etc.
     
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  4. stowe
    Joined: May 18, 2015
    Posts: 207

    stowe

    I tore it down prior to dropping it off. Bolt looks fine . I re used the original.Pulled the threads
     

  5. F-ONE
    Joined: Mar 27, 2008
    Posts: 2,828

    F-ONE
    Member
    from Alabama

    2k into machine work?
    Invest about 200 more and get it fixed right.
     
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  6. ramblin dan
    Joined: Apr 16, 2018
    Posts: 2,594

    ramblin dan

    I'm rebuilding a 1965 283 block and after the tear down I chased the threads before and after machining.
     
    Deuces likes this.
  7. Yes if properly installed. ^^^^^^

    I would use a heli coil and then stud mount the lower end. That way you are not trying to get a torque reading off the heli coil.
     
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  8. stowe
    Joined: May 18, 2015
    Posts: 207

    stowe

    Correct , That is why I am asking for input on best option to get this fixed correctly.
     
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  9. F-ONE
    Joined: Mar 27, 2008
    Posts: 2,828

    F-ONE
    Member
    from Alabama

    Ok let’s say you stripped or crossed a valve cover or oil pan bolt....
    No big deal. You can do a home remedy with the next size up bolt or a heli coil,
    A main cap is a big deal. It’s critical. Load it up and take it to the machinist.
     
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  10. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 9,470

    jimmy six
    Member

    Not sure on the "meat" left in the block but a steel nutsert is an option. Not because of costs but I have just about eliminated using cap screws and have gone to studs in every engine I build today with mains and heads.
     
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  11. 4ever18
    Joined: Nov 1, 2007
    Posts: 474

    4ever18
    Member

    If you’re unsure about using a Helicoil & and the original cap, you could Helicoil & add splayed 4 bolt main caps. Remember, it’s only money.
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2019
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  12. not what you want to hear, but it needs to be broken all the way back down to a bare block, and the block and main caps taken back to the machine shop to fix the threads. be it helicoil or however they fix it, it need to be bare so that any and all metal shavings can be cleaned out after the repair. plus the block really should be put in the mil so any drilling and taping that is done in the repair is done in the proper plane, if its not dead straight it will not be right, and will cause main bearing problems.
     
  13. Anyone who spends 2 grand on machine work on a 283 has more money than brains.
     
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  14. stowe
    Joined: May 18, 2015
    Posts: 207

    stowe

    Wow Old wolf, thanks for the help!! You offered amazing insight. Have you been to a machine shop lately, they are expensive? The 2k includes all the decking,boring cam bearing, all soft plugs and heads rebuilt, crank polished ect ect ect. It is a 270 hp late 61 out of my vette, so money well spent in my opinion.
     
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  15. stowe
    Joined: May 18, 2015
    Posts: 207

    stowe

    Yes, I will start the breakdown this weekend. you stated exactly what the machine shop said. They are going to repair and replace bolts with studs.
     
  16. I have about the same amount in the 283 in my 39 Sedan. Just put it all together and into the car. Also built to early vette specs. I paid 1857.00 in machine shop bills, and I got the local boy hook up. 2k in machine shop bills comes fast. Good work costs money. I also feel that it was money well spent.
     
  17. Yes they quoted me a price of over $400 to bore a block. And I told them not from me. Before I spent thousands I would buy a guaranteed 350 short block and dress it up to look like a 283. and store the original block for the next owner. actually I wouldn't do that! I would get a 283 or small journal 327 from my hoard and install a $100 ring and bearing kit in it. There are not any machine shops left in my area. Those greedy fools priced themselves out of business.
     
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  18. Tri-power37
    Joined: Feb 10, 2019
    Posts: 510

    Tri-power37
    Member

    Cricket ... cricket.....cricket
     
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  19. Is the machine shop going to do all this on their dime?

    Tommy
     
  20. stowe
    Joined: May 18, 2015
    Posts: 207

    stowe

    For a nominal fee. I will dissemble, most of the labor
     
  21. F-ONE
    Joined: Mar 27, 2008
    Posts: 2,828

    F-ONE
    Member
    from Alabama

    With all the high dollar baloney that snakes on to this forum; especially the new fad bagged in da weeds custom stuff, two grand into a 283 is money well spent comparatively speaking.

    How much does a tri power, cam, intake, lifters ,distributor and linkage cost for a 8BA Flathead?

    I figure my 289 short-block is going to cost me 1200 bucks at the least not counting heads. It does not take long to get into some coins at the machine shop.

    News Flash....
    A C Note (100 dollar bill) is the new 20.
     
  22. Deuces
    Joined: Nov 3, 2009
    Posts: 20,541

    Deuces
    Member
    from Michigan

    Wow! Now I don't feel bad buying a new marine 300hp 351-W shortblock from Ford for $1300 bucks...
     
  23. I'd have to pull the bill on my 355 from 2016, it was not inexpensive, but fair for all the work done. Most was labor and services, I bought most of the hard parts.
     
  24. Sporty45
    Joined: Jun 1, 2015
    Posts: 989

    Sporty45
    Member
    from NH Boonies

    Ain't that the sad truth :(
     
  25. 56sedandelivery
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 6,695

    56sedandelivery
    Member Emeritus

    I don't see where this was said, but when studs are installed, the block then needs to be line bored. Line boring may lead to needing a special timing gear set/chain to compensate for the line boring. It just snowballs, does't it? It might be a better thing to just start with a new block; maybe the machine shop will give you a break on the work needed?
    I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
     
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  26. Tri-power37
    Joined: Feb 10, 2019
    Posts: 510

    Tri-power37
    Member

    I have been trying to scrounge up a 283 for a while now. They are not that easy to find at all. Machine work is expensive but if it is quality work and holds up over time - it actually ends up being money well spent.
     
  27. I hoarded 283's and small journal 327,s when nobody wanted them. I sold a 67 short block for$200 a few years ago. The 67 -283 doesn't have the protruding rib cast in the block like the 66 and older blocks. I even have a 1957 side mount delete block in the collection. In the past I ran some .060 over 283's with a 30-30 cam 300 horse double hump heads and a z 28 intake. with 411 rear gears they where lots of fun. Every one that I blew up it was a piston failure. Never had a piston fail on a factory stock engine that I just honed and installed new rings & bearings. never had any crank turned or polished and used a stock Z28 oil pump. never had a rod of main bearing failure. and I really hammered on them. Right now in the shop I have a 64 truck engine. its getting new molly rings. I just honed the block enuf to break the glaze. New cam and rod & main bearings. new stock oil pump , stock timing chain. used 305 cam & lifters. and a set of 602 casting 305 heads that I cleaned and lapped the valves. Going in a 64 short bed with a factory powerglide trans. Im confident it will give good service and last many miles. And not one red cent spent on machine shop work. The new parts cost less than $150
     
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  28. Blues4U
    Joined: Oct 1, 2015
    Posts: 5,692

    Blues4U
    Member
    from So Cal

    Why must it be line bored if studs are installed, how does that change the saddle to cap relationship enough to require line boring?

    If this is true, I'd just Helicoil it and run it. I've never used a Helicoil in that type of application, but have used them in many other applications and never had one fail. I was taught that the Helicoil thread insert was stronger than the original threads.
     
  29. 56sedandelivery
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 6,695

    56sedandelivery
    Member Emeritus

    This is for Tri-power 37: I've got a .060 over 283 block, a balanced rotating assembly, .125 domed pistons, full skirt pistons, 097 cam and lifters stored in the correct order, and you can have it if you come get it. It all needs to be tanks, cleaned, new rings and bearings, but you can't beat the price. Just another project I'll never get to. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
     
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  30. Doublepumper
    Joined: Jun 26, 2016
    Posts: 1,054

    Doublepumper
    Member

    Replacing the main cap bolts with studs doesn't require line boring.
     

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