Projects 1959 Galaxie Drivability upgrades

Do you have any pictures? I'd like to look into this.

 

This isn't the same as the later 'SelectShift' trans. D1 and D2 are both designed to used in 'normal' driving, the difference being the car will start in low gear from a stop in D1, and second gear if D2 is selected. This was basically just an updated version of the previous Fordomatic which was also a three speed, but with that trans you could only get low gear if you manually selected it or floored the car from a dead stop; normally it started out in second gear. By '59, the three speed trans was now the 'Cruiseomatic' and a new two speed Fordomatic was offered (which was only two speeds). To 'manually' select second gear (with either the early Fordomatic or Cruiseomatic), you started in low, shift into D and once it shifted into second you pulled the shifter back into low. As long as you were over the maximum low-gear speed (as determined by it's internal governor), the trans would remain in second. 'Downshifting' for engine braking could be done the same way. As long as your speed was high enough, pulling the lever into low would select second gear. Once speed went below the governor speed, the trans would shift into low. A somewhat clumsy system, which Ford finally corrected in '66 with SelectShift, the 'normal' P-R-N-D-2-1 where both 1 and 2 were selected manually.

 

I have the Cruise-O-matic. I was aware of the difference between D2 and D1 when taking off. I didn't know that you could manually select the gear.

So if you select " L" then take off, then move the selector into D1, let it shift into 2nd gear, then move the gear selector back into L. The car will remain in 2nd gear until you either blow the motor or let off and it will shift into 1st gear?

 

It'll remain in second and won't shift into low gear until your speed drops below a certain point as determined by it's internal governor. You'll have to be above that speed in second when you pull it into low or it will shift into low. It's been a long time, but IIRC that speed is around 35 mph, give or take...

 

Ok, I'll try it out the next time I drive it (late December).

 

Pitting of the points sounds like too much voltage at the points.

Do you have a resistor wire,balast resistor or the proper coil?

 

I think the coil and plug wires were from Autozone. I'd have to check my receipts. I won't be able to get my hands on the car until late December. IIRC, there is a ballast resistor on the firewall.

 

IIRC, having reverse polarity on the coil will also eat up the points. Or a bad condenser, although if the condenser is bad the car will usually run badly.

 

The condenser can be 'good' but of the incorrect specification for the application, and that can cause contact point erosion.

Ray

 

We use Radials. Bias ply suck bad. My Crestliner has bias ply and they track with every line in the pavement. They are only good for about 20,000 miles.

 

A quick update...
The "Highway Queen" made the 800+ mile trip safely to the east coast this weekend without a problem. Over the winter I took the car to D. Wells Automotive in Gurnee Il.. Don has been working on these cars since the 50's. I highly recommend them if you need work done in the Northern Illinois SE Wisconsin area. Hell, I'd drive the car back to IL to have him work on it. It went in to get a some gaskets and seals replaced and came out with new brake lines & wheel cylinders, a remote transmission cooler, new motor mounts, and whole list of things that may or may not have left me on the side of the road.

I did swap out the points and condenser for an electronic unit before the trip, after messing with he points a few times (some lasting less than 500 miles) I'd rather have the reliability.

The Coker tires were happy between 30-33 psi anything higher rattled the car pretty good.

I think the transmission mount needs to be replaced as I felt some vibration and couldn't track it down to a wheel or motor issue.

I got between 11.5-13.5 mpg averaging 65-70.

I had about 200lbs worth of spare parts and fluids in the trunk for the first leg of the trip, with higher pressure and the extra load it was a handful. Removing the weight made a significant improvement in "wandering" and reduced how much the car was upset when cars passed or next to Semi's. Reducing the air pressure helped with overall reduction in vibration and stability.

when going past center with the power steering, you can almost feel the transition. Sometimes I had to turn the wheel to get it to the other side of the pressure to be able to steer in the crown or ruts. I am pretty used to it now and can anticipate what kind of steering input will probably be needed.

Cheers.

Hopefully I will see some of you around this summer!

 

Some pictures from the trip...

 

Nice looking car. I like seat belts, Pertonix. Quick and easy upgrades. I had a 55 Buick with bias plys, hated them. Radials were a big improvement. I like disks because they stop harder and straight with little to no maintenance or adjusting. I run the disks to be able to stop for the idiots who pull out in front of me, not because I am roaring down the road. Glad your trip went well.

 

I had the same color 59 in hi school in 64. Wasn't a galaxie but had 4 drs. Where I worked another guy had one same color as yours/mine and a Galaxie but with 2 drs. Sure brings back memories seeing yours. Glad your trip worked out/

 

I'm surprised there are not features in the floor pan for lap belts, at least for the front seats.
Item "e" here -
http://www.oldcarbrochures.com/static/NA/Ford/1959_Ford/1959_Ford_Brochure_1/1959 Ford-10.html

 

Just saw this. Here's 2 pictures, not great but I can take better ones now I have a real camera.

 

Has anyone converted over to PCV or catch can system?

Everytime I stopped for gas on the trip, there was a quite a bit of oil left on the ground (a few tablespoons, sometimes more). some what I believe is directly from the tube and the other from the cross-member. I read up on how the road draft tube works and it uses the airflow under the car to create the low pressure to pull the gasses out of the crankcase(similar to a PCV system using manifold vacuum). I think at the highway speeds 65-70 the vacuum could be pulling quite a bit more out than what I have seen driving 35-55 around town. This is the first major highway miles its seen in almost 30 years.

I'd rather not leave those sort of puddles when I stop. I don't get much smoke from the tube, but I do get some at start up.

Questions I need to answer:
1. Is the oil coming from somewhere else? Manifold?
2. I know the valve seals need to be replaced. Can the valve seal issue contribute to the excess oil coming out the Road vent tube?
3. Is there a compression issue (check compression dry & wet)
4. Does the Road tube hole need a baffle if I put in a PCV adapter.
5. Where do I connect the tube (Carb spacer or split an existing vacuum tube).

Any thoughts or suggestions?

 

It's been a couple years since I updated. She has had a radiator leak that was fixed. The local radiator guy said whomever soldered on the top tank didn't let the solder flow inside properly. I made the trip down to Ocean City, MD for the cruise in. Spent hours in traffic without any issues, just smoked a little like usual. I've taken it to some local shows and even won an award. "The More-Door" Trophy for 4 door sedans. It's been sitting for a couple months and started it the other day. It was running pretty rough and was having trouble staying running with the cold weather. I assume some adjustments would need to be made or possibly give the carb an overhaul. It's been a few years since it's been pulled and cleaned.

So the list
1. Hesitation in D2, pull carb & clean up.
2. Intake needs to be re-sealed.
3. Valve cover gaskets re done.
4. rear main seal
5. Check Drum & Pads for wear, adjust.
6. Airbags in rear, the new garage has a steep incline from the alley and the scrapes the tail pipe/bumper if angle isn't perfect.

 

Glad to hear that you are driving it. All of those issues are minor maintenance items with an older car, you already know that.

 

I drive mine all the time except for the snow a few days ago. Waiting for the streets to dry out. My heater is great so no problem keeping warm. I have to borrow a warm garage and do the driver door seal. But there is always something to do on these old relics.

 

As it gets colder, the engine doesn't seem to want to run properly. I am guessing there are some adjustments that need to be made to the carb and choke mechanism. Any thoughts or suggestions? It seems to want to idle much higher not that it's cold.

 

I use mechanical linkage for my choke. That way I know exactly whats happening.

 

I also just remembered that the heater hose to the automatic choke was broken off the manifold. It ran fine most of the summer. It's leaking oil pretty bad so I need to get some of these leaks addressed sooner than later.