This is what i did this afternoon. I drilled new holes 3/4" down on the inner bracket to set it level and bolted in a replacement tray for a modern battery. Maybe I can figure out something to put in the unused 5"
I have a 59 stepside...im trying to lower this thing without spending a ton..can i just take out leafs er waqt...please help..
Taking leaves out will only get you down so far. I took some leaves out of the rear of my truck once. It dropped it down nice & level, I liked it better than the rake. The softer spring rate in the rear gave me some wicked wheel hop though. This is how it looked. What I've done now is put all the leaves back in the rear springs, flipped the rear above the springs, and de-arched the front springs to drop 3". I really wouldn't want to go any lower (on the springs) in the front. The axle flip dropped the rear 5-6". It's at a nice height but it bottoms out a lot, and I need to notch the frame. But anyway, my point is I had a spring shop do all this for me, for $525. It still drives nice & straight and it rides nice until the rear bottoms out. Here's how it looks now: You can do something similar for cheap. I have photos of the rear axle set up here and here. Send me a message if you need more info. And just a tip for the future--- you'll rarely get the reply you're looking for in a thread in just 7 minutes. It's best just to wait it out, and bump your thread up if it drops off page 1.
This is what the mono-leaf and drop front axle will get you with G78-15's. Not cheap, not slammed, still rides good but very easy. I am not aware of a cheap way to drop these. And the only way i can see to slam it, would be clip it.
Here is how to take care of the rear.Mid 60's Mopar big car (Newport,NewYorker) rear shocks will fit after the axle flip. I'm picking up air assit/adjustable so I can change the rear ride height by a few inches when needed http://www.classicperform.com/tech_articles/F-100-C-Notch-Kit/F-100-C-Notch-Kit.htm As far as the front goes you can flip the axle over the springs as well but this requires moving the steering box. The easiest thing would be monoleaf springs with reversed eyes (4.5" drop) or a drop axle (2" drop") or a combination of both. If you use both you will need to drop the tie-rod ends to accomodate the slight geometry change. More info here: http://orphanyears.blogspot.com/
I stand corrected on the mid sixties shocks. They dont work. Anyone car to enlighten us on the proper shock for a lowered truck?
I'm running factory take off shocks from the front of an '04 Chevy Silverado half ton on the rear of my F100 with an axle flip. You'll need to remove the insert in the bottom of the shock used to bolt it to the lower a-arm of the Chevy and then it will slide on your factory mount. Shameless self promotion: My truck is in the classifieds.
I used the original shock mount, bolted onto the springs right behind the axle with its own U-bolt. This way you can use the original shock and its length is still in its normal range.
This is my '59. it has been parked for about 10 years, it is non opted. Never had time or money to put it back on the road. Then I bought the '55 wagon and it is getting most of my car-tention right now. So I may sell this one, I would really like to build it the way I had wanted to, but now, since lay off no money again. we'll see in next month or so, body is pretty good, bed is shot, no floor left. Everytime I come back to this thread I get inspired...
Not mine, but a very good buddy of mine. I basically gave him the direction and helped at getting it there. Makes me want one for myself, though...
Glad this thread is still alive-can't get enough! I need the input, just to keep me inspired/motivated.
From reading a couple of Ford truck boards I ran across this setup. 2003 and up Crown Vic front end unbolts and is an easy fit on Fseries Fords. Thinking about using it on my '59 Panel. Only drawback is you have to run 16" wheels because of the 12" discs. Supposed to lower the truck about 5 1/2 inches. Anyone know someone who has done this swap? Picture and story of my panel here... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=393074 Link to the Ford Truck Entusiast article... http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/716058-buildup-06-crown-vic-front-suspension-into-67-f100.html
Here are some shots of my 59 F100. I have a Fatman Mustang II and a rear flip kit with a c-notch. I am running a 312 Y-Block with a C4. There are a lot of nice trucks and ideas in this thread. Keep them coming!!!
That is a F'ing great looking truck, man! What steel wheel with a 5.5" bolt pattern accepts those caps?
i'll be d#mmed. I just assumed that the passenger car poverty caps wouldn't fit a 5.5" lug pattern wheel. Looks good.
The wheels are Wheel Vintiques 15X6 front, 15X8 rear. They are 4 1/2 bolt pattern and do accept the 56 Ford passenger car bottle caps and any other cap that size. With the Mustang II I went with the 4 1/2 pattern and had a machine shop convert the rear axles to the same. Thanks for the comments.
Here's my rebuilt battery tray. Ground the spot welds off the old rusty tray. Saved the L brackets and wire wheeled them clean. Built a 13x7-1/2 tray with 1 inch lip out of 1/8 steel. Re-welded the L brackets to the tray and got new hold down hardware. Should out last me. Removed and resprayed the front bumper and started to rub out the paint
here are a few pics....i am currently putting it all back together after repairing as much rust as I can ......now I just gotta work on the griile and straighten bumper....parts are cheap but the shipping to hawaii is a killer so I am just repairing what I have....
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