Projects 1957 Hillman Husky 392 hemi build thread

That little Hillman is going to surprise a lot of people, whether it's moving or sitting still!

 

Like my other Husky the surprise will be revealed when I crank it up.

 

Hey Husky, if that big fat hemi won't fit, I have a sbc that I would be willing to part with in trade for that hemi.

 

I'll keep that in mind when it's time to get rid of it. I just figured I'd have to get scrap value since nobody seems to want them

 

I was thinkin' maybe a 283 w/283 HP in 1957 might be first muscle car,, Sometimes it pays to "sell the sizzler, as much as the steak" like Pontiac and the wide track, but man, didn't the art work, in the ads, make ya want one ?

Please, Don't put side pipes on yer sleeper, will Kill it, keep it discreet" my.02 cnts.

 

Just following along, cuz I really like what yer doing. As a muffler shop owner, (30yrs) now retired, I would like to see you put in short studs in place of those bolts. Use short studs and 3/8 s.a.e. essna nuts, (non plastic locking nuts) you won't need lock washers.
takes same room as the head of bolts yer using, and they will come off even after being hot. trying to get those bolts out of stainless after they seize, will almost assure breaking the corner of those stainless manifolds !!

 

You must be referring to the bolts on Retrosteel's ram horns. I'm not as far as getting bolts but I'll take your advice and go for studs. I've never heard of esna nuts. Do you know where I can get those? Should I be using stainless studs and nuts? Would ARP studs be the way to go or is there a better solution? Thank you.

 

Yes I referring to his manifolds, I pretty sure you can get the 3/8 short studs , at Ace hardware, Better yet go to Most any muffler shop you'll need six of their shortest, As I recall the manifold has fine threads, so the coarse threads will hang out, The ESSNA nuts are used in a lot of manufacture machine shops. Just commonly called locking nuts w/o plastic. If you can't find them COPPERSTATE BOLT &NUT CO.
here in Mesa, Az. has em. 1-800-603-6887. I would send you 1/2 dozen. But, after you use em, You will want them on everthing, they look so good and they stay tight. Come in all sizes. DON'T USE STAINLESS BOLTS AND NUTS ON ANYTHING. cept maybe a boat

Just love yer progress, real Jealous. >>> what part of Wash. w/Black Cal. Plates did u get current wagon?

 

I read the first page of the thread. I see a guy's going to cut up a tiny Hillman to stuff a big Hemi in it. He then passes through three of them as too rough/rusty. Too rough to cut the entire floor out of and make a new one, and a new 2x4 box frame while at it?

I guess I just don't understand.

 

Thanks for the info. I'll make sure to get some of those studs and fasteners.

I can't remember exactly where in Washington the car came from. Sure sucked that I had to get it back down from there when it was originally from California. I'll try and keep that black plate on the car if I can. I only have one so I may need to get a copy made.

 

Coming from Ohio, to Wyoming, I do understand. Back east, we had little choice but to replace floors and frames, but out here, things are not quite so rusty. I have dug Model T parts out of the ground that were still usable. I have become spoiled, and I will never do extensive rust repair ever again. Maybe.

 

I passed on two of this body style. The first was rusty and banged up and it was missing the core support and other vital front end sheet metal. The frame was bent too from hitting a tree. The second was just way too rusty. Not just floor boards but also the rear platform that holds the seats. So really two levels of rust on the car and also the fender bottoms and tops. Both cars were in need of windows and many other parts. Luckily I was able to find a better body otherwise I'd be trying to find too many missing pieces. Still can't find a way to get my seats so I can't imagine if I had to find a windshield which both other cars needed.

Take a look at the gas tank. This was the level of rust I was dealing with. The car sat for years with no windows so it had layers of dirt that trapped moisture.

 

Husky, don't worry about him, he likes to brag about how much rust he can fix...to the point of being offending to others.

Keep plugging away, this little Hillman is gonna be badass

 

Thanks Ynottayblock. Plowing away......

 

I understand !!! builds usually have a few turns and or twists we did'nt anticipate and many times we decide to go with another car or another part and it winds up being just as bad or a waste of time but hindsight is 20/20.

This aint the A-team where a plan always comes together it's real life.

keep it up this baby is Awesome !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Yes, it will be great when this plan comes together.

 

Today I've been trying to figure out what to do for a brake master cylinder. I'm running discs on all four corners. The Jag rear brakes need a lot of volume so from what I'm being told a 1" corvette manual master cylinder won't work....or if it does I'll have a really hard pedal and still won't get enough volume to work the rear calipers. I don't really have room under the floor for an 8" booster so I'm looking for options.

I'd like to stay old school and not have to go with power brakes. Does anybody have an idea of what might work? I'd like to hear from the guys that have the Jag IRS rear and brakes in their cars. Anyone running this set-up successfully?

 

Are you looking at the shiverlay so you have a remote reservoir or ?
There are plenty of conventional masters with larger bores. Troll through some of the brakes threads over at www.p15-24.com since those cars have under floor masters.

.

 

Thanks Gary. I was able to view 8 posts as a guest.....any more requires a login. I tried to register but couldn't pass the test questions:

What does a club coupe have that is missing in a business coupe? (Hint: two words, enter your answer all in lower case)

What is the firing order of a mopar flathead six? (Hint: Enter all numeric values with no spaces I.E 123456)


I'll keep searching.

 

After a little searching I found the answers

question 1 = rear seat
question 2 = 1 - 5 - 3 - 6 - 2 - 4

 

With out a power booster you need to go a smaller piston for more leverage. With the Jag calipers requiring a large volume you are going to have to walk a fine line to get the pedal you desire. Going bigger on the piston will make the pedal harder. You might get a long stroke for volume but that will make the pedal travel further before engaging. Tough decision, you may want to talk to a brake expert. Room for a hydraulic booster?

 

Thanks for the input Stretchmobile. I talked to many brake guys today and they all said I'd need at least a 1" bore and that still may not work well. I've been looking in to 2 boost systems that sound interesting.

The first is ABS High Power Master System that is electric. The picture shows a firewall mount but they also have floor mount. I've found a few people that really liked them. Also saw several positive magazine reviews. This one also works well with a 4:1 pedal ratio. That would allow me to shorten my pedal a little and get it away from the firewall. That's a big plus. Cost is not a plus at over $1,200.

http://www.abspowerbrake.com/instruct/1057 with Single Reservoir (309KB).pdf





The second is by Engineered Components and is called Universal Brake Assist. This one sounds too good to be true and I have yet to find anyone that has installed one....not even the hot rod magazines. I'll call them tomorrow to get more info. I believe this one is less than $400.

https://www.hotrodhotline.com/engin...s-its-new-universal-brake-assist#.Uyp2c4U-Rc4

 

Never heard of the EC one. Can't figure out how it is supposed to work. Interesting.

 

They say it's similar to a forklift master cylinder or a floor jack. If you do a search for it you'll find it described as snake oil, too good to be true and things like that. I couldn't find anyone that had used it. I like to do my homework and talk to or hear from people who have used it before I pull the trigger and buy.

I'll keep looking and learning.

 

So I called EC today and the Universal Brake Assist isn't currently available. They are having problems with a solenoid and don't know when it will be back on the market. All units in the field were recalled so from what I understand none are currently in use.

I just placed an order for the ABS High Power Master. Wasn't my first choice.....manual brakes were but I just don't think they would give me enough stopping power.

 

I would say it's a pre-master cly. to the main master cly. A small bore to a larger bore.

 

There is another option for power brakes if you are going with apower steering pump the hydroboost pump operates off of the power steering pump. more info at www.performanceonline.com.

 

Thanks for the info. I did look at these but I'm not going with power steering in my Husky.

 

You don't have to go with power steering to use the hydro boost pump setup. But you do need to have a power steering pump involved to run it.

 

Geez, why didn't ya go with a BIG engine? For me though it's just the right size LOL. Too big, too loud, too fast, burns too much gas. Just like i like it!