Projects 1957 Hillman Husky 392 hemi build thread

This is a fantastic build!
Considering how well the 392 manifolds clear, except for the down exit, have you considered having them reworked? Might be able to mill that outlet shorter, and even at an angle towards the block, or cut it and weld it back together at an inward angle. A good welder could fix the manifolds up if you cut and mocked them to what works, and then took them to a welder to weld them back together.

 

Thank you. I'll take a look and see if there is enough meat there to mill it or do the angled exit. My impression when looking at the 392 manifold was that the picture made it look like there was more room that there really was. Once I put the 392 manifold on I quickly took it off because I just thought there was no way since it was right on top of the DD shaft.

Between that or slightly modifying the steering u-joints and shafts for the 354 manifolds I think I'll be able to get it to go where it needs to be. My preference is for the 354 manifolds because they flow so much better and look better but I'll do whatever it takes to make it work.

 

The manifolds will fit either side. I would try the 53-54-55 #1535933 RH manifold on the left side.

 

Super cool build! Subscribed!

 

Had the same exhaust clearance steering problem on the roadster . Angled the 2 inch pipe towards the block ,right at the exhaust manifold flange, using a modified mandrel bent 90 angle. Problem solved! I'll post a pic later if you want.

 

Thanks for the RH LH clarification Tom. I didn't know which was which.

The RH manifold dumped out right on top of the steering shaft. It was also almost impossible to get it in there without lifting the engine. I think I'll end up trying to use LH manifolds on both sides of the engine.

 

Yes, please post a picture. I'd appreciate it! I need ideas and pictures always help.

One thing I haven't done is pay too much attention to the passenger side exhaust manifold. I looked at it today and the Milodon spin on oil filter is right where the exhaust down pipe needs to go. I think there will be room to get a down pipe in there but it will have to travel right by the oil filter. I'm worried about the extra heat the oil will get from the pipe. Might have to think about some sort of heat shield.

I didn't actually put a manifold on the passenger side but will do so in the next week or so. Need to concentrate on finding a brake master cylinder so we can focus on the pedals.

 

The only thing I accomplished today was get the slip yoke on the tranny to measure for the drive shaft length. Total length from yoke center of u-joint hole to flange is 19 3/4". I'll maybe get the drive shaft made this week....or next. Curt Hamilton of Hamilton Industries will be doing the work. He's the same guy that did the IRS narrowing and rebuild so I know he does the BEST work.

 

Doug, do you have to use the Milodon filter for side clearance?

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When Speedway came out with these polished stainless Ram Horns I knew i had to have a set! As the build went along i installed the steering shaft & universal and i could see there was going to be a clearance probem. The Ram Horns dumped almost directly over the steering universal. Made even worse with the manifold flange they provide with a short piece of pipe provided. I'am using the popular Vega box in this application. Thought i might have to go to another type (block hugger) header. I asked a friend of mine who works at a muffler shop to come over and take a look. He said to buy some 90 degree mandrel 2 inch bends and he would cut off the pipe on the flange Speedway had provided and start the bend as soon as it exits the flange. This new piece was welded on and now i have ample room! Probably not best for flow, but this allows me to use the cool Speedway Ram Horns! By the way i also shortened the lock bolt on the steering joint!
Here are some pics i took this morning:

 

You can get some real tight radius bends called Donuts.

They come as a complete round donut and you just cut them up into 90 degree bends or what ever angle you need.

Really good for this sort of problem ...


http://www.pro-werks.com/partdetail/C76-564/

 

Thank you for the pictures. From what I can see your situation is very similar to mine. I'm also trying to try to use the Ram Horn 354 manifolds on mine. I'll see if I can get some of these mandrel pieces and see what can be done.

Thanks again for taking the time to post pictures.

 

Now that is cool. On the phone with them right now to get one.

Thank you!

 

Side clearance is pretty close. In this first picture you can see how the transmission tunnel is fairly close. I haven't measured the distance so I can't say for sure of a vertical mount filter would work. I know some that I've seen need at least 3.5" of clearance and I don't think I have that.

 

Ditch the Fram!

 

I run Wix filters. The Fram is only on there because it is small. I transported the engine on a box made out of 10" x 2" pieces of wood. The engine then sits on this wooden box... sitting on the oil pan bolts. With the Wix filter on there the filter interfered and the box would hit it. I had to find a filter with a small diameter. This was just to keep dirt out while transporting.

The wooden box is also shown below but doesn't show the oil filter side.

 

Hadn't noticed any difference in width between the 2, but I've never had a need to.

 

I use the crap Fram filters I've gotten for free to do cam break in. Hate to use a good filter for that short period and toss it, so the Fram gets used for the 20 min. and then cut apart after break in to ensure there's nothing weird inside.

 

First of all this one hell of a build and you have done some good work. I enjoy the innovative solutions to the build problems. I can't wait to hear what that think performs like. Oh by the way when I moved my firewall back on my 40 ford I mounted the gas pedal to the firewall using a lokar pedal this might give you more foot room.

 

Thanks for the info. I'll take a look at the Lokar pedals.

 

I too have been in this situation, making up tubing and adjusting bolt lengths, nothing stuff as needed. Clean looking work you guys did!

 

One of the current projects on the Hillman build is figuring out the pedal positioning. To do that I need seats. I found a set and have purchased them. Problem is they are in Winston Oregon and I'm in Morgan Hill California which is close to San Jose.

Is anyone making a trip from Oregon to California that might be able to pick these up for me? Will gladly contribute for gas.

I've looked in to shipping fedex/greyhound but the seller isn't able to help with these. If somebody could get them anywhere near me I could meet them.

 

Wasn't able to get much done on the Husky other than fixing the driver's door latch. Wasn't a simple task. Had to take the door window out of the track and remove the window regulator to get the latch out. Also replaced the outer handle as it didn't have a push button to open the door. It all works as it's supposed to now. Took me several hours to do all this so didn't really have time to do anything fun on the car.

Yesterday I attended a lecture on the birth of the muscle car. It was given by Jim Wangers of GTO fame. They had a slide show and one of the slides gave me an idea for routing the exhaust on the Husky.

This slide shows what must have been an early 331 with the exhaust from the driver's side crossing over the front of the engine to the passenger side. I've got the clutch and brake master cylinders on the driver's side of the car under the floor. Snaking the exhaust past there has had me worried because there just isn't any room under there. This picture got me thinking that maybe I can do the same thing on the Husky. Next time I'm under there I'll take a look to see if it looks possible.

 

So did he explain why everyone seems to want to give the GTO credit as the first "muscle car", when there were so many factory cars long before it that had better credentials to be termed "muscle cars"? I never have heard a good explanation why, and wondered why it wasn't a early 60's Chevy with 425hp 409 and a 4 speed, or several Mopars that had more than 1hp per cubic inch, or a host of other factory cars.

 

Standard explanation is...it was the 1st GM int size car with a big engine. Of course the whole "Muscle Car" designation might just be a Pontiac advertising slogan like "wide tracking Pontiac" when they were the same width as any other GM built on the same frame.

 

There was an infamous German who said something like ...if you repeat the same thing (lie) over and over it will eventually be regarded as truth by those who don't bother to investigate...

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I think a period complaint by some was about the Edsel being "too powerfull" or having too big an engine. Seems to me most of the Dodge, Desoto & Chr hemis were a bit small for the size/weight cars most were in.

 

Well done so far Doug! A lot of your firewall/tunnel work looks very familiar. I still owe you one for that windshield. Can't wait to see this think in person at a Rootes meet. Keep it up!

-Mike

 

Might have to go 70's with side pipes, lol.

 

I might like that. Can anyone photoshop some pipes on this?