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Projects 1956 Pontiac Gasser 389 swap

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by wvenfield, Oct 29, 2014.

  1. Okay, sure. In that case, use a single center (three tube ) header ,and massage it to go around the front of the box, and down..Never know the difference. Center two are joined inside the head anyway, so no benefit from 4 tubes.
     
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  2. BLACK STUDE
    Joined: Jan 30, 2014
    Posts: 285

    BLACK STUDE
    Member

    Get those Chevy headers, then j bends in your tube diameter. Cut tubes and move them where they need to go. This is the left side header from my 55 stude with a big block Buick. No. 3 and 5 had to go around the steering box, went outside the frame, then back underneath to meet the collector. Used slip joints to get it off and on.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Oct 28, 2017
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  3. 55chieftain
    Joined: May 29, 2007
    Posts: 2,136

    55chieftain
    Member

  4. wvenfield
    Joined: Nov 23, 2006
    Posts: 4,534

    wvenfield
    Member

    Ordered a clutch disc on Tuesday......"Will be here Thursday".....call Thursday......"No, but FedEx hasn't been here yet". Call Friday......"No". Call today......."I don't even see the order in the computer, do you still have the part number"?

    Never mind......

    Anyway, done with the rant........Bill. What pedals did you use?

    As to an earlier discussion...............this is why I can't get stuff done.....too much back and forth on what to do.....LOL

    Bill, did you roll your wheelwells? I talked to the guy with the really nice red 56 StarCheif and while his are nice, that is a lot of work. :D
     
    Last edited: Nov 1, 2017
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  5. 55chieftain
    Joined: May 29, 2007
    Posts: 2,136

    55chieftain
    Member

    I used a 55 chevy pedal assembly but found a longer brake pedal off a f250 to make it longer. I mounted it above where the wiring goes thru the firewall. Had to cut the back end off it so it would clear the speedometer cluster. Than made a bracket to support the end of it. Using a 1" bore 85 dodge 5th ave master. like $35 new at autozone.

    On the wheelwells on mine I took a jackstand to support a steel rod level with center of axle and used a string and marker to make the outline, had to do a little sheetmetal work on front edge. But welded 3/8 brake line centered on the sheetmetal than went over it with some bondo. Really nice strong smooth edge when it was all done.

    Rolling them out may end up making them worse lol, I don't have any experience with that
     
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  6. wvenfield
    Joined: Nov 23, 2006
    Posts: 4,534

    wvenfield
    Member

    Not super impressive but in the interest of making a record of progress (even if not large) we did get the emergency brake working. 56 Pontiac and 69 Pontiac are not the same.

    DSC_2239.jpg DSC_2237.jpg

    After the problem getting the clutch disc I said "screw it" and we cleaned up the one that came with the drivetrain to start with. Going to try and do it simple and use linkage.

    DSC_2240.jpg

    I'm thinking long term........Everything snowballs. The firewall looked so good that I said. "let's paint the rest of the white as it's pretty shabby". Plans are for now to maybe cut the wheel wells. Long term buy a set of 55 Nomad wheel well panels.
     
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  7. 55chieftain
    Joined: May 29, 2007
    Posts: 2,136

    55chieftain
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  8. wvenfield
    Joined: Nov 23, 2006
    Posts: 4,534

    wvenfield
    Member

    Looks very similar to the Nomad ones I saw.

    On hold a few days. Snapped the head off a flywheel bolt. (yes, was using a torque wrench) No one in the area has them. One was a ground down bolt so I just ordered a new set.
     
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  9. wvenfield
    Joined: Nov 23, 2006
    Posts: 4,534

    wvenfield
    Member

  10. D-man313
    Joined: Mar 17, 2011
    Posts: 1,125

    D-man313
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    Do you have anymore close up pictures of the motor mounts and headers?


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
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  11. wvenfield
    Joined: Nov 23, 2006
    Posts: 4,534

    wvenfield
    Member

    I will get better pics of the motor mounts. There are some of them being made earlier in the thread. Those headers are just sitting in place at the moment. I will post pics as we adapt them to fit.
     
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  12. Mike Colemire
    Joined: May 18, 2013
    Posts: 587

    Mike Colemire
    Member

    This is going to be a sweet ride. That gold frame looks good.
     
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  13. OahuEli
    Joined: Dec 27, 2008
    Posts: 4,874

    OahuEli
    Member
    from Hawaii

    wvenfield here is what your car could look like with '55 Nomad fenderwells. Not to scale but hopefully close. It would make it a whole lot easier if you had to pull the wheels between rounds. Changed the shoes too. 2 56 Poncho wvenfield Nomad  F-well n new shoes.jpg
     
  14. wvenfield
    Joined: Nov 23, 2006
    Posts: 4,534

    wvenfield
    Member

    Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
     
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  15. manicmachanic
    Joined: Sep 19, 2006
    Posts: 358

    manicmachanic
    Member
    from Berwyn, IL

    They are PIPE benders not tube benders. There are utube vids on how to convert the HF pipe bender to a tube bender. The biggest problem is the way pipe and tube are measured.
     
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  16. manicmachanic
    Joined: Sep 19, 2006
    Posts: 358

    manicmachanic
    Member
    from Berwyn, IL

    I would go with the Nomad, Safari skins. Just looks better.
     
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  17. wvenfield
    Joined: Nov 23, 2006
    Posts: 4,534

    wvenfield
    Member

    That's what I am thinking.
     
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  18. manicmachanic
    Joined: Sep 19, 2006
    Posts: 358

    manicmachanic
    Member
    from Berwyn, IL

    Use Hemi bolts. Heads are thicker. Not like the wafer Pont. bolts. Which are hard to keep a socket on. Same thread depth and same socket head size.
     
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  19. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 8,525

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    Do you have a steel SFI flywheel?
     
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  20. wvenfield
    Joined: Nov 23, 2006
    Posts: 4,534

    wvenfield
    Member

    No clue on the flywheel.
     
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  21. wvenfield
    Joined: Nov 23, 2006
    Posts: 4,534

    wvenfield
    Member

    Only took two days of cleaning. I hope it will still work.

    DSC_2463.jpg

    Motor Mounts. (shouldn't that be engine mounts)? (as per the earlier request)

    DSC_2465.jpg
     
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  22. The SFI flywheel question was in regard to the SEMA certification required by NHRA tracks for certain classes and brackets. Same would go for the pressure plate and the disc. This supposedly makes those pieces explosion resistant anyway
    Sounds like you have none of the above, plus it looks like you're using an aluminum bellhousing.
    The diaphragm p.p.'s are particularly "grabby" as in either in or out, and like to break parts.
    So, if you're still planning on running real slicks and running in the 12's, some of us appear to be concerned whether you'll just lose your 8.2 rear or lug nuts, or possibly your real nuts, first.:eek:
     
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  23. wvenfield
    Joined: Nov 23, 2006
    Posts: 4,534

    wvenfield
    Member

    I don't live close enough to any track to worry about qualifying by the book. The closest tracks are 1/8 and you pretty much run what you brung. I am not building to run in any competitive series.

    The rear came out of a car running 10.5 inch slicks (grabbier winkle wall slicks and more HP than I will have) and held up over many passes. The drivetrain was being run in the Bonneville posted pages back. (though not quite the HP it has now).

    It's a hobby car. If something breaks, we fix it.
     
  24. Pretty ,sure you missed salt flats and my point. We were concerned about the safety aspect here.

    Does look like you don't have to worry about running in the 12's ,where you live.

    Also you said the previous car with the rear was a stick shift. How much weight? ET? 60' times?. Launch RPM's?
    It's not necessarily horsepower that breaks parts, in spite of what you read on the internet.
     
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  25. wvenfield
    Joined: Nov 23, 2006
    Posts: 4,534

    wvenfield
    Member

    55 Nomad. I don't recall his times but he ran it hard. Quit running it as it was going too fast for the safety equipment he had.

    My 316 and rear end is now in this car. It's now a GMC 316.

    nomad.jpg
     
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  26. 55chieftain
    Joined: May 29, 2007
    Posts: 2,136

    55chieftain
    Member

    How are you hooking up your steering to the pitman arm with the ball stud still on it? I cut the backside off where it's peened and pressed it out. 5/8" bolt fits nice and used the speedway draglink on mine.
     
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  27. wvenfield
    Joined: Nov 23, 2006
    Posts: 4,534

    wvenfield
    Member

    I haven't got that far yet. :D
     
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  28. 55chieftain
    Joined: May 29, 2007
    Posts: 2,136

    55chieftain
    Member

    Not sure how either, unless you can get the speedway drag link with a heim joint on the pitman arm end and tie rod for the other .
     
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  29. wvenfield
    Joined: Nov 23, 2006
    Posts: 4,534

    wvenfield
    Member

    Pulling the ball right now.

    P.S. the Nomad ran 7.23 in the 1/8.
     
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  30. wvenfield
    Joined: Nov 23, 2006
    Posts: 4,534

    wvenfield
    Member

    Ordering a drag link.........will work fine and better yet, easy. Should have plenty of room for center pipes. I have a hex plug to replace the one that is there. Will have to do the under the column slip pipe on the back but.........I have a guy that said he would waterjet me a pair of flanges.........I'm thinking I will let him cut some body bushings also.

    DSC_2472.jpg DSC_2473.jpg
     
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