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1956 ford car front suspension rebuild kit

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 56 ford custom, Mar 7, 2013.

  1. I bought the complete rebuild kit from Kanter for the '54 Ranch Wagon. HRP
     
  2. matthew mcglothin
    Joined: Mar 3, 2007
    Posts: 970

    matthew mcglothin
    Member

    X2. They have quality stuff.
     
  3. subdajj
    Joined: Jul 18, 2009
    Posts: 174

    subdajj
    Member

    Why don't you try NAPA? They have all the parts you need.
     

  4. Technically all of them have something either non needed or something missing that is needed. Also these may be the Chinese made parts.
    I bought all the parts individually that I needed from MAC's. I'm pretty sure that it didn't cost me more than $300 for what I needed. From the pictures in your profile, you don't need the replacement rod for the upper control arms. The bushings however are a bitch to get out. Look up all the parts you need on MAC's and C&G Early Ford Parts.
     
  5. kenymac
    Joined: May 8, 2008
    Posts: 40

    kenymac
    Member

    I did the same thing on a 1954 Mercury and I picked up all the parts I needed for the front end and picked it all up at NAPA. It was cheaper to go to NAPA and they got all the parts in one day. If you go with Kanter
    It will cost you more plus shipping.
     
  6. These are U.S made?
     
  7. I guess I could
     
  8. tommy
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 14,757

    tommy
    Member Emeritus

    I'm not a fan of the front end kits after working at a front end shop for many years. We had a customer bring in a "kit" for a Chevelle. We replaced it and he came back a few years later with worn out LBJs. sorry no warranty for labor. I also don't believe in replacing perfectly good original parts with questionable foreign made parts. I'm partial to TRW or Moog parts. They are made to be used every day and not just parked in a heated garage as the kit people think their parts will be. I've never replaced an upper ball joint (no wear). People seem to think that car parts are date coded and need to be replaced due to their age even if they are not bad or worn. I have one advantage in that I know how to check front end parts for wear. If my parts show no sign of wear I don't just replace them with what may be questionable parts. JMHO
     
  9. 57Custom300
    Joined: Aug 21, 2009
    Posts: 1,372

    57Custom300
    Member
    from Arizona

    NAPA usually lists several different manufacturers (and prices) for the same part. The cheaper the price the more likely it came from China.
     
  10. The shafts are originals but I had them cleaned and pressed new bushings in them already for the upper and lower arms. The frame and most of the suspension is powder coated.
     
  11. You are probably right on that. Do you know if its U.S made parts for sure?
     
  12. So maybe I shouldn't replace the upper or lower ball joints? What are the parts I should replace?
     
  13. M_S
    Joined: Feb 20, 2008
    Posts: 542

    M_S
    Member
    from SoCal

    I don't know what part of SoCal you are in, but there is a parts house around the corner here in Torrance (Completes Plus) that carries Moog. I'm not sure if all Moog parts are still US made, or if they list the ball joints, but it might be worth a call. Like most of the others said, there are parts in those kit that you wont be needing. I do remember reading on one of the T-Bird sites that those ball joints are just about indestructible. I still replaced mine, but kept the originals just in case that turned out to be true.

    You already have the busing pressed, but one caveat. The machine shop that pressed mine was a bit overzealous and pressed them all the way to the flange rather than stopping at the embossed stops on the bushing. It wasn't anything that couldn't be fixed, but worth checking before re-assembly.
     
  14. tommy
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 14,757

    tommy
    Member Emeritus

    You need to replace the worn parts. Do you replace the light bulbs because they are old? Lower ball joints carry all the weight and wear out. Uppers don't wear out and seldom need replacement unless there is no grease for years. Nobody can tell you what parts are worn over the internet. We can tell you the odds of them being worn but they need to be physically tested by a professional. You may only need one tie rod end but I do replace them in pairs. Outers and inners. Seldom do you really need all four. If there is play in the right outer and the left inner then replace all four. Otherwise just the worn or damaged parts unless you just like to throw money at a project. JMHO
     
  15. I replaced everything on the wagon because they were shot,,I bought all my stuff from Kanter 10 years ago and at the time it was all US made. HRP
     
  16. I will go ahead and inspect it all.
     
  17. tommy
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 14,757

    tommy
    Member Emeritus

    Jack up the car and lower it on jack stands under the control arms out near the lower ball joints Come in from the side with a pry bar under the tire. try to lift the tire and watch the ball joints for play. If there is any play replace the ball joint. Any slop at all, the part should be replaced. Grab the tire at 3 and 9 o'clock and shake the tire if you feel any slop have someone shake the tire while you look from underneath for where the play is coming from. The idler arm should not move up and down. If you feel play, find out where it is coming from. I like to grab each tie rod so you can feel any play in your palm while your buddy shakes the tire. You can get repair kits for idler arms for 56 Fords. All of this is done with the weight of the car is on the jack stands.
     
  18. I checked with my buddy and all the threads on all four ball joints are badly stripped out.
     
  19. kanter used to buy up all the dealers inventories when they went out of business and they still have alot of older real usa made stock i just got my master brake kit from kanter for my t-bird i got old stock wagner brake shoes ( asbestos linings YEAH I KNOW) ive got a complete front end kit for my 57 ford from kanter laying in my basement

    if you follow kanter on facebook they give you 10% off which covered the shipping on my brake kit
     
  20. I am going to try that
     
  21. Still looking for US made ball joints since mine are stripped bad
     
  22. M_S
    Joined: Feb 20, 2008
    Posts: 542

    M_S
    Member
    from SoCal

    Moog did not show a number for them that I could find, so I am betting that all of the aftermarket suppliers are using joints from the same source (e.g. overseas).

    If memory serves, the replacement joints I used were through bolted with nylocs and not threaded through the joints. If yours are still good, drill what's left of the threads and go that route.
     
  23. carlos
    Joined: May 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,382

    carlos
    Member
    from ohio

  24. The threaded shaft that goes into the spindle is what's stripped on these so they are no good.
     
  25. carlos
    Joined: May 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,382

    carlos
    Member
    from ohio

    Absolutely trashed
     
  26. Yup...sucks
     
  27. carlos
    Joined: May 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,382

    carlos
    Member
    from ohio

    Not to bad a job replacing the ball joints:Donce you get into it
     
  28. That's good to hear.I haven't done them before.
     
  29. Frankenstein57
    Joined: Jun 16, 2010
    Posts: 75

    Frankenstein57
    Member

    I agree with Tommy, I went over the mechanical parts of this entire car, the balljoints were tight. My buddy is razzing me to change them, says I'm cheap, wtf? I'm not removing good quality parts to replace with Chinese shit.
     

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