Register now to get rid of these ads!

Projects 1956 F100 Build Thread

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by tlmartin84, Mar 24, 2012.

  1. SOCAL PETE
    Joined: Oct 19, 2006
    Posts: 1,204

    SOCAL PETE
    Member
    from Ramona CA

    INstalling a 04 Vic front end on a 56 for a buddy of mine. Going for the bolt in non narrowed project.
     
  2. willymakeit
    Joined: Apr 13, 2009
    Posts: 1,326

    willymakeit
    Member

    Any pics. If I decide to change mine somewhere down the road it would be a great reference.
     
  3. jfreakofkorn
    Joined: Apr 13, 2010
    Posts: 2,640

    jfreakofkorn
    Member

    those are some crazy looking headers ...

    keep up the good work ...
     
  4. linkstar69
    Joined: Jul 24, 2008
    Posts: 88

    linkstar69
    Member

    Cool truck in the making
     
  5. Redlighting
    Joined: Sep 10, 2008
    Posts: 49

    Redlighting
    Member
    from Tn

  6. Dale Fairfax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2006
    Posts: 2,585

    Dale Fairfax
    Member Emeritus

    For all you guys contemplating an IFS conversion on your '53-'56 F-100 (whether Crown Vic, M II , or Jag) now is the time to consider moving the wheel centers forward 1 1/4" forward to correct Ford's "too far rearward in the wheel arch" problem.
     
  7. tlmartin84
    Joined: Jul 28, 2011
    Posts: 772

    tlmartin84
    Member
    from WV

    Here is how the originals were position. Flush towards the end near the middle of cab, and down 1/4" at the end of the cross member. They were centered on the bolt hole.
    [​IMG]

    Mine are offset like this...(both sides did the same thing) If I allow them to sag just a little more than the originals they center up ok.
    [​IMG]

    The after market pillars don't match the rockers. The front is close, but the rears are way off.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    Here are some overall shots.... Notice the sag in the inners at the cross member.
    The outside corners do fit though......
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    I think I am just going to weld the gaps up where the pillar meets the rockers... What's your opinions on doing that?

    Also, I noticed when I closed my doors that everything looks pretty decent on the outside but the gap between the inside bottom edge of the door and rocker is about half an inch from the front of the door and then widens to nearly 1" at the rear. Is that normal???

    I am afraid the door won't seal up like this.....
     
  8. tlmartin84
    Joined: Jul 28, 2011
    Posts: 772

    tlmartin84
    Member
    from WV

    Got the aluminum driveshaft cut down and fitted up!

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  9. tlmartin84
    Joined: Jul 28, 2011
    Posts: 772

    tlmartin84
    Member
    from WV

    Got the Driveshaft hoop fitted up. Still have to cap the top and bottom and repaint it but now I have an idea as to how high my transmission hump will be.

    Started with a Lucky Charms box pattern. Broke out the torches cut the patterns out of 10 ga. center is 16 ga. which I will double up and spot weld together.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  10. willymakeit
    Joined: Apr 13, 2009
    Posts: 1,326

    willymakeit
    Member

    Match the door bottoms and skins to your cab. I found out the hard way on my drivers door and ended up getting a new one.
     
  11. 41fordor
    Joined: Nov 9, 2008
    Posts: 76

    41fordor
    Member

    Great work so far! I love the 300 six too, what an overlooked motor. I wish I had one in my OT truck instead of the 5.0!
     
  12. tlmartin84
    Joined: Jul 28, 2011
    Posts: 772

    tlmartin84
    Member
    from WV

    Some work on the back of the cab...

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Got my driveshaft cleaned up welded and together......

    Before and after acid bath on the yokes:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Here is a shot of the factory weld and our weld after shortening:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Here is the final product with new spice u joints (50 for the shaft, 25 for the welding, and 40 in u joints .... total of $115.00 isn't too bad for an aluminum shaft):
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  13. tlmartin84
    Joined: Jul 28, 2011
    Posts: 772

    tlmartin84
    Member
    from WV

    Here is the new cab rear cross member:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  14. 2dr_sedan
    Joined: Mar 25, 2005
    Posts: 265

    2dr_sedan
    Member

    Wow, awesome welding/fab skills. Love all the pictures too!
     
  15. Drakkar
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 50

    Drakkar
    Member

    Excellent job sir. Jealous of your ifs set up. I am stuck with a volare front end in my for the time being. What wheel options are you considering?
     
  16. tlmartin84
    Joined: Jul 28, 2011
    Posts: 772

    tlmartin84
    Member
    from WV

    Well.....it is taboo on here but probably some 18" x 8" billets. I may have a custom set of steel wheels made that replicate the factory wheels and caps but in a much larger size with higher offset.

    I am really liking the new taurus and explorer 5 spokes as well.


    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  17. JakeDW
    Joined: Sep 30, 2012
    Posts: 580

    JakeDW
    Member
    from Missouri

    You could get a set of Delmos new wheels they fit the center caps now.

    What kind of braded lines are you running to the rear calipers for the disc brakes I need to find some for mine just was not sure if they made them to fit mine have a big square mount with rubber line now .

    Jake
     
  18. tlmartin84
    Joined: Jul 28, 2011
    Posts: 772

    tlmartin84
    Member
    from WV

    Mine are goodridge through speedway. I,m not sure if they have the sizes for your stock lines.... mine have the through frame tubes from speedway also. I am sure mid fifty has some braided stock lines.

    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  19. tlmartin84
    Joined: Jul 28, 2011
    Posts: 772

    tlmartin84
    Member
    from WV

    Well I am so thrilled, I finally got the cab sitting back on its own mounts. I feel like the worst part of rust reapair on the cab is on the down hill now. I know I have a ton of sheet metal still to do but I no longer have to work around braces and in nooks and crannies....

    I decided to do a smooth floor and transmission hump. So I am going to frame the floor with 16ga. 1 x 1 tubing.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Went ahead and welded the jambs solid.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Some of the welding is a little sloppy, I was practically standing on my head to get some of this tacked in. Just one of the down falls of not having enough room to get the cab off and where I can flip it around. Oh well, I will get them ground down and everything cleaned and rewelded as needed once I get the cab off.
     
  20. tlmartin84
    Joined: Jul 28, 2011
    Posts: 772

    tlmartin84
    Member
    from WV

    Oh and did i mention everything is square with good gaps!!!! Yes!!!
     
  21. IRONBUTTJOHN
    Joined: Feb 11, 2009
    Posts: 16

    IRONBUTTJOHN
    Member
    from wagram, nc

    I like the front you are using. Could you tell me what years ford used this setup in the crown vic?
     
  22. Very nice build. I'll keep watching the progress.

    Frenchy
     
  23. jfreakofkorn
    Joined: Apr 13, 2010
    Posts: 2,640

    jfreakofkorn
    Member

    looking good .... =)
     
  24. Landmule
    Joined: Apr 14, 2003
    Posts: 458

    Landmule
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks for posting your progress. I'm enjoying this build.
     
  25. tlmartin84
    Joined: Jul 28, 2011
    Posts: 772

    tlmartin84
    Member
    from WV

    Crown Vic runs from 03 to 07 believe. I think in 08 or 09 they went back to steel.
     
  26. tlmartin84
    Joined: Jul 28, 2011
    Posts: 772

    tlmartin84
    Member
    from WV

    Well I got my pans cut out and fitted. I lack a little bit of trimming before tacking them in but they turned out really well.

    I actually impressed myself with how well they fit and how symmetrical they were.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I was actually able to sit in it for the first time..... man did that feel good!
     
  27. JRS T42
    Joined: Nov 3, 2013
    Posts: 30

    JRS T42
    Member

    its looking great. keep up the great work. i will continue to follow this
     
  28. tlmartin84
    Joined: Jul 28, 2011
    Posts: 772

    tlmartin84
    Member
    from WV

    Some more pics of the substructure, floor pans and cowls.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    Should be starting the chop and section next weekend! Stay tuned!
     
  29. patmanta
    Joined: May 10, 2011
    Posts: 3,647

    patmanta
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Woburn, MA
    1. MASSACHUSETTS HAMB

    I too am running a 300, with plans to supercharge it! I shied away from the T5 though because I was concerned it wouldn't be strong enough. I'll be very interested to see how yours handles, because they're damn sure cheaper than a TKO500!

    Where did you score your aluminum driveshaft? I've been considering one too but haven't found many for much less than $100 (which won't stop me but I'd like to know if there's a cheaper option).
     
  30. tlmartin84
    Joined: Jul 28, 2011
    Posts: 772

    tlmartin84
    Member
    from WV

    Mine was out of a crown Victoria interceptor.

    As far as the T5 goes, I plan to put it on the Dyno before I spend much money on it. If I get it up over 300 ftlbs of torque I am going to get an astro gear set for it. Even with the gears and a rebuild it is cheaper than most TKO500's I could find.
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.