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Projects 1956 F100 Build Thread

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by tlmartin84, Mar 24, 2012.

  1. tlmartin84
    Joined: Jul 28, 2011
    Posts: 768

    tlmartin84
    Member
    from WV

    OK guys, after asking a bunch of questions and researching, I HAVE FINALLY GOT STARTED. While some of the donor parts are O/T. They are going on my 1956 F100 and Considering everthing you see below only set me back 180 bucks TOTAL. I didn't have any other choice but to go this route!

    Here is the 03' VIC IFS setup. Narrowed 1.5" to tuck it into the frame. With high offset wherls should leave 1.5" of clearance on each side of the wells.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Here it is with the rack mounted. Notice I didn't narrow it. I made offset tabs, and will take 3/4" off each end of the tierods, if this causes noticeable bumpsteer I will shorten the shaft 3/4" on both sides to put the geometry back into factory condition.

    [​IMG]

    Here's a look at the tabs, 1/4" plate. THEY ARE NOT FINISHED, still have to build up some weld on them for a flush mating surface. Just temporary mocked it up to check clearances.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Here is the 1994 Crown Vic Rear 8.8 Axle 2.73 gears. This is before I cut everything off.

    [​IMG]

    Here are the parts......

    [​IMG]

    And finished product. Sway bar will be used. Local shop hooked me up with some old tires to move it around with. 10$ for 4 tires and mounted. Awesome.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    Hoping to get the axle under it this week and rolled into the garage. Finally!
     
    cadillacoffin and brEad like this.
  2. dirtbag13
    Joined: Jun 16, 2008
    Posts: 2,540

    dirtbag13
    Member

    interested in seeing finished product
     
  3. benchseat4speed
    Joined: Feb 11, 2008
    Posts: 373

    benchseat4speed
    Member
    from Golden, CO

    Stick with the 9" and the beam up front, throw some chrome reverse wheels on it, maybe a class 3 hitch, and call it a day.
     
  4. CharlieLed
    Joined: Feb 21, 2003
    Posts: 2,459

    CharlieLed
    Member

    Glad to see that someone is finally come to their senses when trying to fit a CV IFS under the fenders on an F100...good luck with your build, I am anxious to see how your IFS narrowing works out for you.
     

  5. tlmartin84
    Joined: Jul 28, 2011
    Posts: 768

    tlmartin84
    Member
    from WV

    OK, after a month of spring chores, staining house, cleaning salt off of vehicles from winter etc... I am back at it.

    Here is what I have got.

    Rear Axle Mounted Over Springs
    [​IMG]

    CNotch sections I made, didn't have quite enough room so I made these, and shortened and reused the rubber from the crown vic rear bumps.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Here is the crownvic front end in place. Narrowed 2". I had to widen the frame, which I will later box. I also had some custom spacers made to fit it nice and flush with the correct caster.
    [​IMG]

    Here are the offset brackets for the steering rack after I got them how I wanted. I still need to clean up the welds and stuff.
    [​IMG]
    Here is a shot of the aluminum shims turned on a lathe and milled at the right angle along with the widened frame plates I added.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Here is an idea of the stance.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 17, 2012
  6. derbydad276
    Joined: May 29, 2011
    Posts: 1,315

    derbydad276
    Member

    nice work!!!! I just saw a cv front on craigs for $150
     
  7. tlmartin84
    Joined: Jul 28, 2011
    Posts: 768

    tlmartin84
    Member
    from WV

    Thanks. Yeah thats a good price. Mine was off a cruiser which had good maintenance on it. All of the brakes are like new and all the bushings are tight. I had a junk vehicle to get rid of that I couldn't sale for what I wanted and apparantly there isn't a huge demand for CV crossmembers so the local junk yard traded me it, some other parts, and a couple bills for my car. So I am happy. I am happy with how it looks when it is all cleaned up!
     
  8. I've never seen one of these front ends...does it just bolt up from the bottom?

    4 Bolts?
     
  9. I wonder if a fella could run one of those front ends, stock/not narrrowed, and make a spacer on the outside edge of each framerail to make it all snug.

    Might make it less scary for guys who don't wanna mess with the steering stuff, or weld aluminum.
     
  10. I have been considering this for my '64. Great info, nice pictures.
     
  11. tlmartin84
    Joined: Jul 28, 2011
    Posts: 768

    tlmartin84
    Member
    from WV

    Yeah 4 bolts and then weld the plats for the rear of the lower control arms to the frame, You can run it full width with no spacers or anything and just bolt it on. I narrowed mine to give me a few more options with wheels and tires.
     
  12. tlmartin84
    Joined: Jul 28, 2011
    Posts: 768

    tlmartin84
    Member
    from WV

    Got some more done, don't chop me too bad for using galv pipe as my spacers. It will all be boxed later.

    But thank god the cab is off and the CV is bolted down, at least I can roll it in and out!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    brEad likes this.
  13. jmccune
    Joined: May 27, 2012
    Posts: 5

    jmccune
    Member
    from ohio

    awesome build good job so far keep us posted on the progress
     
  14. bonez
    Joined: Jul 16, 2007
    Posts: 3,493

    bonez
    Member
    from Slow lane

    Rather good fab work. And theres nothing wrong about galvanized pipe, i use miles of it. Of course depends on what its used for ;)
     
  15. 510madmav
    Joined: Dec 29, 2009
    Posts: 814

    510madmav

    Dude,That Crown Vic set up is LEGIT! nice work, seriously.
     
  16. I'm a big 53-56 F-100 fan. I like the overall idea of what your trying. Did my first graph on my 55 F-100 in 1968 while working in a frame and alignment shop. Lost count of how many since. I see things I might have done different but that's always the case between 2 or more different builders. Don't mean it's wrong, just different. Over all it looks like a good way to go. Now that it's a roller have you thought of removing the coils and just raising and lowering the chassis to see what happens at the wheels?
    The Wizzard
     
  17. tlmartin84
    Joined: Jul 28, 2011
    Posts: 768

    tlmartin84
    Member
    from WV

    Pist, outta curiousity what would you have done different??

    I havent yet pulled the springs to check it....I will though before final disassembly. If there is a problem I will then toss the offsets I made and shorten the rack WHICH IS THE PROPER THING TO DO!

    I just want to try this first and see how bad it is, that way down the road replaceing the rack with an over the counter replacement will be much easier than having to have another one shortened.

    I got some more work done today, the support brackets for the towers are now on, and hopefully tommorrow I will get the rear lower control arm bushings mounted.

    and btw it will get boxed when I tear the frame apart for paint.
     
  18. tlmartin84
    Joined: Jul 28, 2011
    Posts: 768

    tlmartin84
    Member
    from WV

    Here is a question for you all.....Would you use the front sway bar or not.... The springs in this thing are HARD.

    When I jump on it there is no give at all, the tires flex instead. The CV was a cop car package which had the strongest springs in it....

    I may use lowering springs to get another 2" and at that time I can decide if I need it to soften it up.
     
  19. Gearhead Graphics
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 3,611

    Gearhead Graphics
    Member
    from Denver Co

    what motor will you be running? That will make a BIG difference in front end and the squish.
    I have a cop CV front end under my 61 unibody with a351m. rides real nice i wouldnt go to a softer srping, and i do run the swaybar
     
  20. tlmartin84
    Joined: Jul 28, 2011
    Posts: 768

    tlmartin84
    Member
    from WV

  21. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 13,862

    chaddilac
    Member

    You have to understand 200# (avg. male weight) isn't gonna move that frontend like a 1 ton engine, front clip and all the other weight on it.
     
  22. If I had narrowed the cross member I would have already had the Rack ready to go. I would not have moved the rack mounts and mounted it in stock hole on driver side and shortened it on the pass side. Other option is a totally different rack correct width. Remember, lower A frame pivot width should be same space between inner tie rod pivot (in a perfect world). I like A frames at loaded ride height to be 1.5 degrees down hill towards wheel. I would know the front tire dia I'm going to run and notch the bottom of frame rail to raise front cross member up into the frame to get ride height, not cut coils. Maybe you've already done all this and what your doing works for what you want, I'm just going by how I interpret your photos and how I like them to sit. What ever ride height you run I like the running board to be 1.5" lower at the front corner than the rear of the board. Just my personal look. By all means run a front sway bar.
    The Wizzard
     
  23. tlmartin84
    Joined: Jul 28, 2011
    Posts: 768

    tlmartin84
    Member
    from WV

    I'm not cutting any coils, "IF" I go lower I will buy 2" drop coils with the proper rating to fit my needs at that time, I definately will not be cutting them.

    As far as the rack goes.....we'll see how that works out. The "correct" thing to do is narrow it, and if funds permit I may order a custom one. However If I drop the springs and check the travel and everything is ok. Then I'll stick with it..
     
  24. tlmartin84
    Joined: Jul 28, 2011
    Posts: 768

    tlmartin84
    Member
    from WV

    Here this weeks update.

    Shock tower mounts are welded on, and the rear lower control are mounts are finished!

    Shock Tower Mounts.....

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Heres the lower rear control arm mounts....

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    brEad likes this.
  25. willymakeit
    Joined: Apr 13, 2009
    Posts: 1,326

    willymakeit
    Member

    Nice build. Will subscribe.
    Question, I noticed in one of the pictures where it looked like the tire would rub the frame? Maybe an illusion. Other than that it is something I've wondered about.
     
  26. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,159

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    cool build man. keep up the good work
     
  27. Coming along very nice. How much of the frame do you plan to box?
    The Wizzard
     
  28. tlmartin84
    Joined: Jul 28, 2011
    Posts: 768

    tlmartin84
    Member
    from WV

    From the front to the transmission x member, and the C-notches on the rear
     
  29. 53mercury
    Joined: Dec 2, 2010
    Posts: 95

    53mercury
    Member

    Looks good. Just an observation , but you might want to think about adding some lateral support to the upper control arm mounts. Nice work. Mike
     

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