we got a 1955 plymouth and we are trying to get the rear drums off.There seems to be a big nut holding the whole lot on(does not say in shop manual).Anyone know what i should be doing to get this off?help help help...............Marq
remove nut, then use a puller, slide hammer to yank the bitch off (will require cussing). and Bob's your Uncle.
Yep, there is several types of pullers for those...one is a 3 legged deal that is bolted on by the lug nuts with a large screw that pushes against the axle. It has a striking head on it you knock the crap out of with a big ass hammer to appply pressure. Be careful you do not mushroom the end of the axle when doing this by putting the big nut back on the axle until it is flush with the end before using this tool. This helps keep it from mushrooming. Or......they make a tool that is a solid big nut that screws on the end that you bash with a big hammer to jar it loose. Apply generous amounts of penetrating oil before starting removal. Good luck.
Are the nuts a left and right threaded deal as we are having real problems getting them off.any more advice would be appreciated.............Marq
Marq- I think the threads for the large nut are the same for both sides. There is a keyway in there, so don't lose the key when the drum comes off. You need a big-ass puller to get the drums off, if they haven't been off in a long time. Be sure to leave the nut on the axle a few turns, so that when the drum busts loose it doesn't fly across the garge or take your head off. The nut will keep it on the axle. They come off with amazing force when they go. You might as well change the axle bearings and seals while you're in there, it'll take another 15 minutes... Pete
Both nuts are standard thread, torque spec is something like 200 FT/LB, so they're on really damn tight, plus any rust/corrosion. The first time I had the drums off my '55 Ply, I argued with each side for a few hours trying to get things apart. If you don't have a drum/hub puller, and you probably don't, here is the ONLY other way to get the drum off without destroying anything. Loosen the axle nut exactly 1 turn, then put the cotter pin back in. Then drive around the block, turning left top get the left drum loose, right for the right one(it's only recomended to do one at a time BTW). The sideloading on the wheel will cause the drum to pop loose from the tapered axle. once you hear it pop, get back to the garage. If you dodn't hear it pop, check it after every lap around the block. It'll stay loose on the axle because the nut is till there, and you may have to corner pretty hard to get it loose if it's been awhile since it was last removed.
Using a puller similar to Bluesky's (mine has a 7/8'' hex), I tighten it as tight as my air gun will go, then hit the tapered end of the hub with the #3 tip on the torch. Usually pops loose in 10 seconds, seldom have to retighten the puller. Back off the shoes all the way before you start. Be aware the axle shaft end play is adjusted by shims under the backing plate(s), so keep track of where they came from if you do the brngs ... 302
Just like to say thanks guys that was very helpful.I do have a puller as well exactly the same as the one in the photos...............Marq
Make sure you adjust the shoes inward first so they don't catch on the drum. And get the puller that you smack with a sledge hammer.
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