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Technical 1955 Ford Y Block will not start when hot

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by duke460, Jul 20, 2014.

  1. duke460
    Joined: Jan 7, 2009
    Posts: 192

    duke460
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    I have a 1955 Ford Thunderbird Y-block that starts well when cold and runs fine. It will not restart when hot after being shut down for 15+ minutes.
    Read most of the posts;
    1. Turns over freely, proper battery and right sized cables.
    2. Has a phenolic spacer.
    3. Added inline 2 psi electric fuel pump
    4. Carb has been rebuilt with ethanol gaskets and tested/ run on a Y block
    5. Fuel lines and regular fuel pump replaced with ethanol components.
    6. New coil
    7. Added Pertonix electronic ignition.

    What am I missing? It needs to sit 4-5 hours after being shut off hot. I am getting to be to good a friend of the tow truck driver.
     
  2. ROADSTER1927
    Joined: Feb 14, 2009
    Posts: 2,921

    ROADSTER1927
    Member

    Have you checked for spark when it will not start? Gary
     
  3. duke460
    Joined: Jan 7, 2009
    Posts: 192

    duke460
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    Yes solid blue spark.
     
  4. How about a hot compression test, or a hot cranking manifold vacuum test?
     

  5. Andamo
    Joined: Jan 10, 2006
    Posts: 505

    Andamo
    Member

    Does the starter motor spin the motor over at the same speed as when it's a cold start ?
     
  6. Do a compression or a cylinder leak down test.
     
  7. carguy699
    Joined: Jan 16, 2013
    Posts: 87

    carguy699
    Member

    sounds like it could be vapor lock. check for components too close to exhaust system etc. also the electric pump should be closer to the tank as to push the fuel rather than pull it.
    hope this helps
    jim
     
  8. 2x^ carguy699, unless your valve lash is too tight and you are loosing compression when hot...???
     
  9. duke460
    Joined: Jan 7, 2009
    Posts: 192

    duke460
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    Insulated the fuel lines and nothing is close to the exhaust on the furl train.

    Spins over at the same speed hot or cold.

    I will try hot compression test today.
     
  10. john walker
    Joined: Sep 11, 2008
    Posts: 1,122

    john walker
    Member

    a 12V conversion will fix it.
     
  11. duke460
    Joined: Jan 7, 2009
    Posts: 192

    duke460
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    Well I took the car to a local mechanic who works on older cars. Ran a vacuum test and the vacuum decreased at idle when it got warm. Brake booster was leaking. Replaced the booster starts and idles smoother.

    Never thought to look for a vacuum leak?
     

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