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Projects 1955 Dodge PU custom

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by TroyZC3, Jan 27, 2013.

  1. 50dodge4x4
    Joined: Aug 7, 2004
    Posts: 3,535

    50dodge4x4
    Member

    Superglue works well for gluing weather stripping rubber back together. I've also hear the weather stripping glue works well too. Gene
     
  2. I just discovered loctite 495. That's what Im going to use. It says it is for dense rubber gluing. We'll see.
     
  3. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 6,552

    73RR
    Member

  4. No it hasn't, thank you very much, they have some great stuff.
     
  5. This is what I have going on for the pedals. I got them out of a 73 pontiac. I had to modify them both, but hey, what else is new. The brake pedal pad isn't on but it matches the gas pedal.

    100_3077.jpg

    100_3076.jpg

    Dont mind the steering column wiring...
     
  6. stevethepreacher
    Joined: Nov 16, 2011
    Posts: 213

    stevethepreacher
    Member

    Troy, tried to send a pic via pm. Here's a pic I had in my files of the window rubber. If you need a closer pic with more detail, just let me know. Hope this helps.
    Steve-
     

    Attached Files:

  7. stevethepreacher
    Joined: Nov 16, 2011
    Posts: 213

    stevethepreacher
    Member

    Another pic that might help...
     

    Attached Files:

  8. Stevethepreacher,

    So, the window channel rubber you got from Bernbaum's worked without the vent window? I was under the impression that it would be too short or something. And if you happen to have any other pics of your modified window guide (I think I am going to just move the old one forward without the vent) or window wipers, it would be super helpful. The closer the pics, the better!
     
  9. stevethepreacher
    Joined: Nov 16, 2011
    Posts: 213

    stevethepreacher
    Member

    I will try to take some more pics today...it's raining cats and dogs here. I did move the 'post,' or channel, that was between the window glass and the vent glass forward and made a bracket down inside the door to hold it in place. The window channel that I ordered from Bernbaum's was either 6 or 8 feet long (it's been so long I don't remember) and it was long enough to run from the bottom of the front metal channel, up the front, over the top of the door and down the back and I believe that I cut off about a foot or two. You want to make sure that when you re-position the metal channel that separates the vent and the window that you get it snug against the front of the window. Initially I did not and ended up cracking BOTH windows ($40 apiece) and having to have them re-cut. After I got everything dialed in, my windows roll up and down very well and keep the water out. Also I do not get any wind buffeting when I drive with the window down. I'll get some pics for you.
    Steve-
     
  10. stevethepreacher
    Joined: Nov 16, 2011
    Posts: 213

    stevethepreacher
    Member

    When out and took some pics...and I told you wrong. The window channel from Bernbaum's ran from the front top of the window, across the top and down the back into the inside of the door. The window travels up and down at the front in the original channel that was between the window and vent. Here are some pics. I still need to get some felt and glue into the metal channel at the front. Also attached is a pic of some left-over window channel from Bernie's and some door rubber that a friend acquired for me. I cut the door rubber with an exacto-blade and glued it to the outside to make a rubber 'window' wipe. When you do something like this, you have to fabricate and imaginate a little. If you need any other pics or help, let me know.
    Steve-
     

    Attached Files:

  11. stevethepreacher
    Joined: Nov 16, 2011
    Posts: 213

    stevethepreacher
    Member

    Couldn't resist. Here's an 'after' pic of my truck. It had a high-side bed which I hated. I cut 5 inches out of the bed to make it a low(er) side bed. I also had to make a new tail-gate because the original was too tall. The tail-gate is not finished yet...
     

    Attached Files:

  12. Lookin good, nice work, and thanks for the info on the window stuff.
     
  13. 4msfam
    Joined: Jun 25, 2011
    Posts: 69

    4msfam
    Member

    Great info there Steve, thanks! (And nice truck too!)
     
  14. stevethepreacher
    Joined: Nov 16, 2011
    Posts: 213

    stevethepreacher
    Member

    Thanks! I got many of my ideas from here, especially from Mr. Carachi. Haven't seen him on here in a while. He had a really nice '56 that we was building for his daughter. He probably finished it enough for her to drive and she has taken off with it...But he and several others have given much help and inspiration to me. Just trying to 'pay it forward.'
    Steve-
     
  15. HotRod60F100
    Joined: Jul 13, 2004
    Posts: 1,197

    HotRod60F100
    Member

    Great build so far!
     
  16. For my latest update, I installed the huge backglass with my new rubber from steele, which took like 5 minutes. I purchased a gas tank and windshield rubber from a fellow Hamber. I modified the rack mounts to get them closer to the final product. And now that I have the rack in probably the most ideal location, I think I need to raise the engine mounts to have enough clearance. How much uptravel do you guys have on your leaf sprung rides from ride height? I have 1 inch at the moment... yikes!
     
  17. Just found this thred as I was looking for info on the earlyer trucks like my '53 B4B. I see you already modded your pan, but summit lists a 360 oil pan that is almost a true front sump for about $50 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3536/overview/make/dodge (its almost a center sump, but sits about 3 inches from the front rail.) As for a gas tank, you can get a tank from an S-10 that will fit into the stock dodge mounts with a little fab work but needs the fuel filler repositioned to work with the dodge location. Using the s-10 tank will get you a modern fuel level sender and they are out in every wrecking yard you walk into.
     
  18. stevethepreacher
    Joined: Nov 16, 2011
    Posts: 213

    stevethepreacher
    Member

    Just an FYI...when i bought my truck the P.O. had already purchased rear glass rubber for it. It also took me about 5 minutes with a piece of nylon rope and soapy water to install it. But what I did not realize was that the rubber had 2 grooves in it and I installed the glass in the first groove, which should have been inside of the cab and glass and was for the headliner, etc to tuck into. I took the truck by the glass shop to have my one piece side windows cut and the glass man said I was lucky that the rear glass did not pop or fall out. The second groove was extremely tight and it took me a couple of hours to get the glass in. Your rubber might be different from what mine uses, but want to keep someone else from doing what I did. :eek:
    Steve-
     
  19. Mine has 4 channels total. I installed it with one channel on the glass, one channel for the lock strip on the outside, and the bottom channels are how you said: one is inside the cab, and the other is on the sheet metal.
     
  20. So I recently finished up modifying the engine mounts. I relocated the engine two inches higher and strengthened the mounts at the same time. Now I discovered that the gas tank i bought from a fellow member wont fit because my transmission cross-member is in the wrong set of holes... Oh well, two steps forward, and three back.
     
  21. I have a question for those of you out there with similar trucks. How tall should my cab mounts be? I think mine are to short at the moment which wont allow my transmission crossmember to fit correctly.
     
  22. stubbsrodandcustom
    Joined: Dec 28, 2010
    Posts: 1,375

    stubbsrodandcustom
    Member
    from Spring tx

    I'd say you need to do a trans tunnel and ditch the stock one. I did it to mine just to gain clearance. I also have a 6 inch firewall notch also. Body mounts stock are only about 1" to 1.25 tall if I'm right.


    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  23. The only problem with that is my cab is not the right height at the moment to match the front clip height for body panel alignment. My mounts are 1" tall at the moment. I need to get the correct thickness mounts and then worry about adding clearance to the floor.
     
  24. Alright so I really need some help with the cab mounts. Any help is much appreciated!!
     
  25. Original mounts I recently removed from a 1956 Dodge PU are 1 1/4" high, front and rear of cab.
     
  26. stubbsrodandcustom
    Joined: Dec 28, 2010
    Posts: 1,375

    stubbsrodandcustom
    Member
    from Spring tx

    I think you need to put 1/4" spacers in there and see how the pannel alignment is for the clip. The front where it bolts onto the crossmember had a 1/4 in rubber strip in there I think from factory. You can adjust there if need be. And also word of note the pannel alignment from factory was not 100 percent either. Give us some idea of how much you are off after spacing the cab.


    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  27. Thanks guys, Ill update after adding 1/4".
     
  28. Alright, so a little bit of a direction change with the truck. I still havent made cab spacers. Instead, i bought an electric window kit from gearheadworld.com. So now, im trying to get the side glass in so that i can leave all my interior stuff in the truck for a change without worrying about rust.
     
  29. Well I finally got back to the truck this weekend and finished up one of the electric windows. I made a template out of wood for the window, and i just had to make a couple spacers and an offset block to correctly position the track and motor. The window is a little rough and slow with the wood going up and down, but i think there will be a lot less friction with the glass. The only think i might change is the position of the track forward and aft because its not completely centered in comparison to the window. This might help it move a little easier. Ill have some pictures to show soon.
     
    Yannick c3 likes this.
  30. Ive been finishing up the steering from the column to rack. I just have to finalize the floor/firewall sheetmetal before i poke the column through. I ordered a couple u joints and a 3/4 rod end which should allow me to link it all together. Then Ill make some adapters on the lathe to go from the Jaguar tie rod threads to the old dodge tie rod ends and i will have steering.

    Also, Im in the process of selling my Model A, so maybe this outdoor build will become an indoor one real soon!
     

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