I made an assumption....I guess the you know what that means, so why didn't it fit....bolt holes, front or rear seal, etc?
Yeah its either the rear main or front of the pan. One of the "semicircles" on the pan is a different radius than the rest of the small block mopars.
The front and rear seals for the pan are smaller on the 360, I may have it backwards but I don't think so...however 360's were used in alot of passenger cars and there are factory front sump pans for them.
Thanks for your interest. The thing is that my carb is an undesirable year for using on a non smog vehicle. I have seen guys drill for vacuum port, but so far in my research I havent seen anyone deal with the pulse solenoid. (probably because they didnt have one on their carb). My carb number is... 9373 s Once again, thanks for following.
Thanks for the clarification on the pan. Could you post a picture of one of these front sump pans? To my knowledge, 360s were very very very unusual in cars because they had to be special ordered. (This was unusual because the 340 made more power)
The 360 replaced the 340, I don't have a picture of one handy but a quick google search brought up a few examples.
Lots of 360's in big C body cars of the seventies! Plymouth Fury, Dodge Monaco, etc. And The truck and van pans and pickup tubes are different than the car pans and pickup tubes. "Been there, done that". LOL
360s and 340s overlapped from 71 to 73. And a simple search on a parts store website shows zero results for stock replacement front sump pans for the 360 in any car and any model year. I guess I was misinformed about the availability of 360s in cars , but nonetheless, still no front sumps... And I think we are getting a little off topic right? Bottom line is that I have a one off custom pan that works just fine.
Had a front sump pan on the 360 out of my 1979 cordoba I got as a donor, had to swap to a rear sump in my case... Had to go through the rear main seal being larger than the 273/318 also..All the Chrysler guys told me they were all the same too. Definitely not the case.
Id still like to see one of these front sumpers. My searches came up empty when I started modifying the pan and my searches are coming up more empty now. And Im not talking about aftermarket. The whole reason I modified mine was to save money on buying a $300 aftermarket front sump.
Ive heard that also about vans, but seen only rear sump in the dozen or so junkyard vans ive come across. Also I find it strange that stock replacements for these front sumps are non existent.
Just because Dodge may have put front sump pans on 360, it does not mean any are available new. Lots of the old Mopar parts are no longer available. A front sump 360 van pan would have had to be in an 80 or older van, or in a large truck, 1 1/2 ton or bigger, which hasn't been made since 78. Car 360 pans are not front sump. The sump would have been where he needed the notch. As for the box, the flat top rail bed side was an option about mid year, 56, but most 56 trucks came with the angled top rail box sides. 57s were all flat top rail sides. The camper craze caused the top rails to be flattened so caps and slide in campers would fit easier. The large rear fenders replaced the round rear fenders with the 53 model year. On the enrichment valve, I believe I blocked mine closed, it makes it a little lean when its cold and the motor is cold, but much easier on fuel consumption. Thermoquads can be a pita to get right, I finally gave up on mine and installed an AFB and an adapter plate, maybe a little less kick, but much better starting and drivablity. You can either install the 360 balanced flex plate, or you can have the weight added to the converter, or have the motor tore down and internally balanced. Don't run it very long without the corrected balance. You have a great start on your truck. I'll enjoy watching your build. Gene
Wow, lots of info here. Great post. Im not sure if we are talking about the same thing on the carb though. And did your carb initially have a vacuum advance port? There were three electronic items on my carb. Heres a breakdown: This is the pulse solenoid i was talking about, and it is what im not sure about Then there was this idle solenoid. I removed this and tapped a hole for a manual adjustment idle screw. Then there is an electronic bowl vent. I will just wire this to the "RUN" position on the ignition.
I'm not a numbers guy, but I bet the carb you have is a lean burn carb off a 76-about 80. They were doing a lot of strange things to carbs at that time to meet the newly imposed emissions standards. Chrysler developed a Lean burn system where they hung a computer on the air cleaner housing that controlled the engine timing and controlled the air fuel ratio. The reduced air/fuel ratio needed the timing to be adjusted continusly to keep from burning the pistons and to keep the motor operating. They needed a way to add fuel under certain conditions. The purpose of part #1 in your picture collection was to add the additional fuel (raise the air/fuel ratio) while the motor was below a predetermined operating temperature, and at specific instances when the computer decided the motor needed a higher air/fuel ratio. The device in picture 1 accomplished this process. If you block off the ports, you eliminate the fuel enrichment. Picture # 2 is an idle step up solinoid. It had 2 purposes in life, the first being to kick the idle speed up when things like the ac compressor kicked in, or the auto transmission was put into a gear so the motor idled smoothly and did not die. its second function was to reduce the idle speed when the motor was shut off so it didn't diesel. Both functions were controlled by the computer. The electronic bowl vent was also an emission item. They couldn't vent the float bowl at an idle like the old ways were done, so they came up with this so the computer could control the vent operation instead of the throttle linkage like the old days. The electronic bowl vent actually vented the bowl to a carbon canister and the computer would pull the fumes back into the motor through the base of the carb, at certain conditions, by a series of switches and solenoids. The lean burn carb can be used on a normal motor OK, there is enough adjustments on a Thermoquad to make it work, you just have to play with it a bit, and add a vacuum port for the dist advance. The lean burn carb usually gives you slightly better fuel mileage then a normal Thermoquad. Google Chrysler Lean Burn system if your bored. All this is from memory, and its late so it might not be totally accurate. The Lean Burn system had some issues, and was often replaced with the standard electronic ignition. Gene
its comming along good man... keep up the good work... and the issue you had with the oil pan is the same issue I had with my 69 318... so Im still running the mid sump...
Gene is on track even late at night! But I'll disagree ever-so-slightly on one item: Picture # 2 ... its second function was to reduce the idle speed when the motor was shut off so it didn't diesel. Both functions were controlled by the computer. When the key is turned off the computer and all else shut off, the throttle blades slam shut, and the engine dies quickly. I highly recommend using this idle solenoid function as it does provide an idle speed and there is no other idle set adjustment on the carb. Here is some good info: http://members.shaw.ca/crussel/thermoquad/tqguide.html Gary
I like the truck. However I do have a question, I put a 69 cuda 318 in my truck and my Grandpa had put a truck deep sump pan like yours on it..my question is how much oil does it take to fill it? I was thinkin 2 gallons maybe.
I had to alter the dipstick as well as the dipstick tube (inside the pan) after i rotated the bottom half and reattached it. So i took some measurements before and after so i could set up the crosshatching on the dipstick itself. The pan held six quarts to the top of the crosshatch before modification (not including the oil filter). But since I had to add a section for oil pump clearance, I need 7 quarts to fill mine up completely to the top of the crosshatch (once again not including oil filter).
I would use the solenoid but Im not running a computer. So instead I drilled and tapped for a spring loaded screw idle adjustment that pushes on the fast idle cam (i believe thats whats its called).
You don't need to use the 'puter...the solenoid is a completely separate part and still provides the positive butterfly closure that your mechanical stop cannot/will not... It is actually a good thing. .
Well what operates the idle solenoid? That thing on the air filter housing? I wasnt planning on using any engine electronics except the ignition system.
Back to the transmission for a bit, I realize now that the torque converter I bought from Jegs has a stall speed of 2500 - 2800 RPM? With the 360 only moderately modified, I was thinking that the stall speed might be too high for my setup. Should I invest in a new converter, or do ya'll think that I will be fine.
Power is supplied when the key is on. When the key is turned off the solenoid collapses. As to the 2800 rpm converter, Ma Mopar used a similar stall on the 340 and 383 of yesteryear muscle cars. .
I would have an update for everyone, but its raining here in SD. Rain + Outdoor Build = not much progress...
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