Projects 1955 Cadiallac Convertible Conversion

I installed the rack and the right drop down bracket for the right side support did not reach the rack so I had to cut in half and put a 2" step into it to bring the mount in. The first pic is before cut and the second is the finished product.

 

We removed the passenger side upright and spindle and cleaned up and installed the spindle to the driver side so you can see the side by side difference.

 

Had to send out the lower control arms to a machine shop to do a slow controlled heated 2" bend so that the steering isn't tweaked. I should have back this week.

 

I built the same style uprights for mine! They look almost identical to yours! Cad is looking good, keep up the good work!

 

Last accomplishment for the weekend was the fuel filler. I got a stainless "lower" filler tube when I ordered my tank and have been trying to figure a way to marry it to my filler neck. The obvious thought was to remove, cut and combine the old with the new. Unfortunately the diameters were off by about 1/4". So I bought and cleaned up a 57 Chevy neck and had to cut its original mounts off, as well as remove the mount from my Caddy neck and weld onto the new setup. Belive it or not, the hardest part of this task was finding the 1 7/8" filler line.

 

The engine is now turning over but I am still in the middle of some trouble shooting before it will start... Discovered that my bad starter was actually the engine grounding out itself and had to move the frame ground from the neg poll of the starter to the side of the engine block.

 

great work danny.

Ted
www.BrooklynLeather.com

 

Well after the 2 days of running diagnostics on my engine we came to the conclusion that my ECU had a short or defect in it... So I bought another off eBay and sent it to be flashed and programmed. Plugged it in and the engine fired! It sounds great! Also received a yoke for the 6l80e and dropped it off today with the original drive shaft. Need to get a custom two piece made since the shaft will actual now travel through the x frame and obviously that allows for zero up and down.

 

Build is looking great! Nice work!

 

Keep it up, bud. It looks like its coming along nicely

 

Wow.

 

Exellent as all get out.

 

So I have installed the front drop spinals, rack and pinion steering, front disc brakes and after 3 complete re-designs the steering column linkage. The only bummer is the car is pretty low to the ground so this is the best picture I could grab.

 

My last challenge will be the modification of my left header. Still chewing on how to approach this.

 

I also have at least 40 hours into the construction of the air bag relays and valves. It is now complete and the car now goes up and down with the push of a remote button. The relays also are wired and ready to just plug in the shaved door poppers once I get around to bolting those one. My father in-law was involved in diagnosing the relays and remote switch module and also gave me the big 20+ year old stainless 600psi gauge which we also installed.

 

Going into this weekend I hope to get a start on the cross member for my spit drive shaft. I should be able to pick up the 2" x 32" piece that will have the 6L80E yoke mounted and be able to get the measurements I need for the rear shaft. Also, I have reinstalled my brake pedal and should get the new brake booster linked up and in as well. I have removed the original brake master cylinder and hydro vac and am relocating to the new setup of master and 1958 Cadillac treddlevac to the underneath of the car. Here is the bracket that will bolt to the holes where the original trans cross member was located.

 

Some last minute changes took place this weekend. (I think for the better.) Ron for RPM called and sadi he had found a hyro-boost that ran a 1" inlet vs. the 5/8 on the treddlevac. According to him it would use similar face plate and should be an easy swap. They were used on Chevy pick up diesel trucks and also 79-81 Cadillac's. I had him send it over and it bolted right up!

 

Unfortunately, it did not fit under the car unless I cut a big hole in the floor board. I then took a brake from that project (no pun intended) and worked on removing the trans mount so I could get the first half of my drive shaft installed and measured for the back half. This went smoother than I thought it would. With cleared mind went back to work on the brakes, flipped around the hydro-boost and began modifying the mounting holes. Everything with a little persuasion eventually fit in place. Here is the finished product.

 

Nice work

 

This weekend I sent the car over to Corba R. They specialize in Cobra kit cars but they have a large lift and tig up one of the nicest custom exhausts in town. They are also going to blast my under carriage and spray it with KBS coating.

 

Looking good!
How much room is there to check/top up the brake fluid?

 

Well, you've got my attention. My body man works just like you, sets out to do something and gets it done. I appreciate the work ethic and I hope I can take just a little bit of motivation from this thread. Thanks for sharing your skills.....

 

I'm using little right angle fittings that will thread into holes that I drill into the masters lid. Then will route line to a remote reservoir that is the same style and located next to the billet power steering reservoir.

 

Drive shaft is in now that the cross member was cut and installed. I also pulled the radiator support and am welding up the mounts for the radiator. Will take pics next time and catch everyone up. Just been running around for parts and hardware, and working as fast as possible with my limited time. Getting close to driving....!!!!!

 

subscribed.....looks awsome thinking about getting a 55 caddy......maybe ill see you around so cal.....Mooneyes christmas show December 8th? will it be ready?

 

I began to tackle the dreaded radiator project last night. I am using a 57 Chevy radiator because it has the dimensions I was looking for plus has an internal trans cooler. I am mounting it on the opposite side it cam stock, so I wanted to notch it in. Here is the pic of the first cut out of the top support, radiator, and shroud. I had the top of the radiator and the fan shroud polished.

 

In order to preserve structural integrity and also a smooth stock appearance, I sectioned 1 inch out and welded the curved metal back on. I also boxed in the ends for a finished flowing appearance.

 

I had just enough time to grind and smooth the weld job and begin adding the tabs to the side that the radiator will mount to. I also cut the notch needed for the hood latch and bolted that in place. Next time I need to drill, cut, and mount the fan shroud.

 

Its good to see this thread back up. Last night I was driving my 52 doing 85 and the motor wasn't even working. I know this was blasphemy but you're gonna love that 6.0 motor. The 5.3 in mine hauls ass. All the EFI stuff is a pain at first but when it's done it's well worth it.

 

In order to maintain the location of the stock hood latch, I added a support around the now front mounted radiator and sectioned 3" out of it.