I am interested in this car: http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/cto/1342123534.html However, based on what I've read about it (using the HAMB search and Google) I do not want a dynaflow transmission. But I really like the patina and lines of this car, it runs, is complete, its in my price range, and has a clear title. Based on those I do want it. But in order to sway me either way I need a few questions answered. First of all, what do you guys think? Good car? Good first project? Second: If I were to leave the suspension alone would it even be drivable? I'm imagining that with 54 year old smooth luxury suspension this car will handle like a water bed. What would it take to stiffen it up? I read about adding adjustable air shocks to a 1950 Plymouth, would that be feasible here as well? Third: Would the 53-56 adapter kit be all I need to swap the transmission over to a Chevy manual (excluding the actual transsmission and clutch)? Is that the cheapest/easiest way to do it? Fourth: Lets say I did get it driving, stiffened up the suspension, and swapped it to a manual transmission. With the stock motor would it have any get up and go? That's all I can think of for now... Any comments are welcome. Thanks, Ryland
Based upon the poor pictures it looks like a decent buy. What exactly are you wanting or expecting? People drove these all over the country for years. Basing things on the assumption that the suspension is brought up to snuff, it will still take you wherever you want to go. I've never been a big fan of 2sp auto's either and I know nothing about the trans adaptor but the drivetrain will also take you wherever you want to go right along with modern traffic.
as far as a driver goes, a dynaflow is just fine, it wont win any races and parts are somewhat hard to come by. but properly built dynaflows make for one of the smoothest rides. my suggestion would be to leave it until it pops. many buicks met their end because of a blown dynaflow, one could assume it must have been rebuilt somewhere along the line. but if you insist, id go with these guys http://www.wilcap.com/webdoc8.html depending on what you want to do, these cars are very easy to bag with slight modification, the only thing is the torque tube that might pinch if the car gets too low. 50s gm luxury cars are just that, luxury cars, throw some fresh shocks on it and call it day. the adapters are well made but from a few people i know doing nailhead powered rods, the switch isnt as straight forward as it seems. 55 buicks were thought to be the height of 50s buicks, the 322 nailhead is no slouch, my 54 will lay rubber with the dynaflow in low. nailheads are torque monsters. hope this helped.
buy it, change the fluids, redo the brakes, shake it down and DRIVE IT!!!. Those Dynaflows aren't all that bad. Especially if you start in low and manually shift to drive. Who knows, the suspension may be okay. Perhaps some new shocks, maybe even coilovers or air shocks for the rear. Save the time/hassle/money on the tranmission change. If you absolutely prefer a manual transmission, find an old Buick with a stick and swap that in. That 322 will kick butt if properly tuned.
They're cool cars. Here's a little info. on tranny swaps. As for the Nailhead being a get up and go motor, I had a 401 in a '63 Electra that got around just fine, and did not have low gear. Torque monster.
since you asked , check it over VERY carefully for rust.the owner says there is "some" floor rust and lower door rust..that means there may be a lot more. check the body mounts, rockers, wheel wells, etc very thoroughly
The older trannys can be rebuilt...you've just got to find the guys that know how and they'll know where to get parts (we just had my brother's stock '54 Caddy Hydramatic rebuilt...and it works better than new)...it wasn't cheap, but when you consider what you'll spend on a newer tranny, adaptor, swapping the rear-end to rid the car of the closed driveline, new U-joints, new driveshaft, modifying the tranny mount and modifying the shift linkage...AND...the time it takes to do all that -- it'd be a whole lot cheaper to rebuild the stocker... Can YOU do all that...or will you have to pay someone...if so, then it gets very expensive...!!! Remember this car is 54 years old...it's lasted this long...a rebuild will give it another 54 years (and by that time NONE of us will be driving anymore...the government will see to that.) R-
If you want to swap the tranny to a more modern unit, you will also have to change out the rearend, the rear suspension, and have a driveshaft made. The driveshaft in the car is an enclosed torque-tube and the suspension uses a wishbone, somewhat similar to earl Fords. So no open-drive transmission will fit up to the stock driveline, and once that's gone, the rear suspension can't be used. I would like to see better pics before I said that the car is a good deal. It might be, or it might be a rusted out piece of shit, those pics are horrible and the description is way too short.
I'm still running the stock drive line in my buick, the engine and trans have been rebuilt but not the rear end. Its now leaking like crazy. I have thought about a tranny, rear end swap. I have a 56 chev. rear end I was thinking about using and going wit a four link set, althought im not sure about spending that much money to change it out. Anyone know a good place to have the rearend rebuilt?
I went and looked at it this morning. It looks like most of the floor has been cut out to replace, the trunk has some rust through it. The wheel wells were solid, all the glass was good except the passenger side window was broken. It was a lot rougher than I expected. He also said the motor had a rod that was knocking. The chrome is also pretty pitted. Here are the pictures I took of it: http://s97.photobucket.com/albums/l222/III_3_III/ The whole first page and some on the second page. The body itself was pretty solid, it was completely stripped of paint and I didn't see any bondo or lead. What do you guys think? Not worth $2000? How much work/money would replacing the floors be? How about the engine? Complete re-build needed? Thanks, Ryland
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