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Projects 1952 F1 VIN# question, and requesting tips on how to start an engine that hasn't run in 30+ years.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by twist my arm, Jan 18, 2019.

  1. twist my arm
    Joined: Jan 10, 2019
    Posts: 5

    twist my arm

    Good afternoon folks! I am in the process of getting a '52 F1 from my grandfather that has been parked since the late 80s, and before I pull it out of his back lot I think it would be pretty sweet to crank it up if possible and share that moment with him and my father. Problem is, I have almost ZERO knowledge when it comes to anything beyond changing plugs, wires, and other basic maintenance. I have searched around for a checklist or an "order of operations" type thing, but it seems most people that are firing up a motor that hasn't been run in 30 years have done quite a bit of work on cars before, go figure right? Right now I am a blank slate, diving headfirst into water way over my head! Listed below are the 2 questions I had in my new member post, and I look forward to hearing from you guys. Thanks in advance!

    1. What is a basic checklist to try and crank the engine up the first time, along the lines of this roadkill episode? Things to be wary of, and any tips would be appreciated.

    2. How common is a 1952 F1 with a factory '53 flathead? F1R2NR vin = '52 F1, '53 239ci v8 with a 2BC from what I can tell.
     
  2. Boneyard51
    Joined: Dec 10, 2017
    Posts: 4,018

    Boneyard51
    Member

    Remove the spark plugs and put some lubercation into the holes, then let it set for a spell. Then change the oil,Then turn the engine over by hand two revolutions. If you can pre lube the engine that would be nice. You can make a pre luber out of a small pressure vessel and some valves and hose , etc. .Then spin it over with the starter. Then put it back together and try to start it.



    Bones
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2019
    tractorguy and twist my arm like this.
  3. twist my arm
    Joined: Jan 10, 2019
    Posts: 5

    twist my arm

    Much appreciated, our schedules and the weather haven't lined up in the last couple weeks but I will update with any progress when it is made.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
     
  4. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 26,890

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    To add to what Boneyard51 said, get some Marvel Mystery oil (that is what has been used for this for the past 60 years) and squirt some in each cylinder and let it set for a couple of days and then pull the plugs back out and see if you can turn the engine over by hand or starter. One you can get it to turn over it should try to start once you put the plugs back in. You need to know the reason it was parked and not driven anymore in the first place though. They wouldn't give my grandfather any trade in on his 36 Chev 4 door so he drove it around back of the garage and parked it and never touched it again after they bought their 46,7 or 8 Fleetline. I am not sure what year that one was but it came in the time frame you put your name on the list at the dealer for a new car and took what ever came in on the truck or went to the back of the line again.
     
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  5. Three Widow's Garage
    Joined: Jan 18, 2010
    Posts: 206

    Three Widow's Garage
    Member

    Definitely helps a little if you know anything about the condition when it last ran, might check the odometer if nothing else. A lot of cars / trucks were parked because they were not running good anyway. On a old motor that I have no knowledge of I first check and see if it has oil then see if it will turn over. Pull the coil wire and check for spark, and with the coil wire out crank it over for a minute should prime the oil system. If the truck has a oil pressure gauge check it when cranking needle should move a little. If no spark most likely the points are corroded - sand paper / file check gap. Once you verify that you have spark and its spinning over plug the coil back in and pour a shot of gas down the carb it should at least cough and spit and try to start. Most engines that have been sitting 30 years will need fuel system rebuild - tank cleaned, new rubber lines, carb cleaned & gaskets.
     
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  6. Beware when buying lubercation,doesnt work as well as lubrication.
     
  7. F-ONE
    Joined: Mar 27, 2008
    Posts: 2,105

    F-ONE
    Member
    from Alabama

    Is the engine free, as in can you turn it by hand?
    Is it original 6 volt or has it been converted to 12?
    What condition is the wiring?
    What condition is the gas tank, carburetor and fuel pump?

    Honestly for one that has been stored outside for 30 years, I would not try to crank it until I had in a garage or at least the place where it's going to be worked on. That way you are in a controlled atmosphere and can be more methodical in going though the systems. Sometimes trying to "field crank" one you take short cuts and can spend money trying to jerry rig run it. You can even damage it being...in a hurry.

    In my opinion....
    Get it home.
    Get a shop manual.
    Go through the procedures.
    Make sure the engine can turn.
    Make sure it's wired correctly...(especially if it's on 6 V).
    Make sure it can get fuel.

    Expect to at least rebuild the carburetor and fuel pump. Likely the gas tank is history too. If the gas tank is gunky and rusty, replace it and all the lines. First things first though, make sure the engine turns off of the starter and has good compression.

    If the engine is stuck and Marvels does not help. It's time to pull it and go through it.
     
  8. F-ONE
    Joined: Mar 27, 2008
    Posts: 2,105

    F-ONE
    Member
    from Alabama

    It should have a 8RT engine. The only difference between the 48-52 8RT (truck engine) and the Ford passenger 49-53 8BA is casting numbers and bolt on components. The Rougue Plant 8RTs have the R or 8RT cast on the block while the standard Ford blocks have 8BA. The block are the same and interchange. 8RTs have a different oil pan, different water pump mounts (trucks have eared mounts)..different bellhousings, different belt and pulley sizes and different fan assembly. It's quite common to find a truck with a 8BA engine or one with 8BA heads as the engine blocks interchange.
     
  9. Dixon Bastie
    Joined: Apr 7, 2017
    Posts: 175

    Dixon Bastie

     
  10. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 3,463

    Budget36
    Member

    Where are you located at? You might find some here close by that wouldn’t mind lending you a hand.
     
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  11. Dixon Bastie
    Joined: Apr 7, 2017
    Posts: 175

    Dixon Bastie

    I have always guven the engine and wiring a good look first. Pulling the plugs and adding lubricant into the cylinders is a must. Once you are able to turn the engine over gentky, by hand with the plugs still out, add more lubricant and repeat. On overhead valve engines, I've always removed the valve covers and generously lubed the rocker arms/shafts too. On a flathead, you'd have to pull the heads, so forget it unless you think the "top end" is hanging up.
    Do not try to start it until it is 100% free - by hand and by the starter, then replace the oil with fresh. New plugs are always worth the $$$.
    Don't trust the original fuel pump or whatever gas is in the tank, disconnect, plug the fuel line, use a remote gas can.
    Before you start it, pull the coil wire and spin the engine over with the starter to prelube the internals, replace the coil wire and fire it up. Check coolant level, monitor your oil pressure, and listen for any odd noises in the engine. It may run like crap at first, but getting that far is progress. Let it idle until it gets good and warm, then change the oil again before running it more. I've had good luck with this protocol, good luck.
     
  12. 1946caddy
    Joined: Dec 18, 2013
    Posts: 1,664

    1946caddy
    Member
    from washington

    Have you asked your grandfather why it was parked in the first place?
     
  13. #1 Well at least one guy has said to disconnect the feed line from the Gas Tank. Do that for sure!
    #2 Marvel Mystery oil for sure!
    #3 Do not just hook up a Battery and turn the key on. Remove the main harness wire at the Batt cable terminal. You have no idea what's been eating on the wires.
    #4 For sure get Oil Pressure before reinstalling spark plugs.
    #5#6#7#8 DO NOT BELIEVE ANYTHING YOU HEAR ON ROAD KILL OR ANY OTHER T.V. PROGRAM.
    The Wizzard
     
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  14. F-ONE
    Joined: Mar 27, 2008
    Posts: 2,105

    F-ONE
    Member
    from Alabama

    What's not on the show is the two mechanics who worked on the truck the week before.
     
    warhorseracing and Pist-n-Broke like this.
  15. Boneyard51
    Joined: Dec 10, 2017
    Posts: 4,018

    Boneyard51
    Member

    Where is spell check when you need it?........



    Bones
     
  16. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 3,463

    Budget36
    Member

    The grammar police... (sung to Cheap Trick)
     
  17. s55mercury66
    Joined: Jul 6, 2009
    Posts: 3,980

    s55mercury66
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    If you were in my region I would be happy to help. If you post your location you might have someone else willing to do so, as mentioned earlier.
     

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