1952 Chevy Brake help!!!

I have read alot of threads on here and still haven't seen anything that has helped. Here is what i got I have a 1952 Chevy car with a complete Walton fab brake booster set up and master cylinder. I have a disc brake kit put on the front and a s10 rear end in the rear. I am trying to bleed the whole system but all i can get is a mushy pedal. If i pump the brakes about 4 times they stick tight but just once to the floor i can still spin them. I have bench bleed the master and got alot of air out that way, i have full fluid with no air coming out of all the bleeder screws, no more leaks everything is tight. The master is on the firewall. I have no valves of any sort inline here. I have bleed lines before but dang never had a problem like this. the front line was a tad long so i had to bend a few zzzz's in it to get it to fit i hate double flaring. I could swear i have enough stroke in the pedal also. I don't want to damage the master by pushing it in to far. let me know what everyone else thinks on this. I would hate to have to pay someone to fix this when i am sure i have over looked something. Thanks everyone for anything you can offer!!!

 

try a new master, I've had bad ones out of the box with the exact symptoms. $15 later it was fixed.

 

well i think with disc brakes in the front and drum in the back you need a proportioning valve so the pressure holds on the pedal. You could always put the little resuidal vavle in the lines they have them on speedway really cheap. This might help.

 

if your master is under the floor you need resuidal valves

 

I will call Walton fabrication when they open up. My master is on the firewall well above all my brake parts.

 

Ok so i got the front brakes working good. Still not getting any pressure to the rears but i am getting fluid. Tonight i am going to check the wheel cylinders maybe they are stuck? I guess i just need to keep bleeding and bleeding till they get better. Any suggestions.

 

Are you bleeding the further wheel cylinder away from the master first, then doing the next furtherest, then the next, and so on?

 

old old trick put a rubber hose on the ens of the bleeder screw run that into a glass bottle with brake fluid aabout a 1/3 full this will stop air from backtracking into the clyinders when you let off the pedal it also keep the floor clean to. real easy to make bleeding one man operation, and you save fluid

look for high spot in the brake line if a spot of line gets higher then the master/c it is a lot harder to bleed

 

76cam hit the nail on the head.Go to eci brakes.They have a good website you need a poporioning valve wit a holdoff in it.It will holdoff the front brakes untill be rear starts to apply.Jimmie King

 

You HAVE to make sure the master bottoms out BEFORE the pedal. You will NOT damage the master by full stroking, contrary to what some believe. Open a front and rear bleeder to make this check, and with engine off and no vacuum assist. Bleeding should also be done with no vacuum assist, as you want high flow with low pressure when bleeding to minimize aeration. Make sure you have the master ports plumbed correctly, ie, larger chamber to the fronts.

I always disassemble master cylinders before use to check for damage and/or foreign junk-optional on new, mandatory on rebuilds!

Adding a 10# residual to the rears will help with pedal feel and is optional, but an adjustable prop valve should be installed with your power disc/drum setup.

 

the fronts are bleed and have complete preasure. I wonder if i need to un bleed the front so i can get a full stroke so i can bleed the rears. The s10 rear end has been sitting for a few years and is out aof a 1994 so is it possable that i have frozen wheel cylinders so that is why the brakes wont apply.

 

The brakes have to be in good working order and drum brakes adjusted properly before any bleeding/leak checking or trouble shooting can be done.