Technical 1951 Flathead timing

I have set my initial timing (lined up pointer and bump on flywheel, moved cap to point at cylinder #1) but I do not posses the knowledge to do final timing. Anyone in the Edwardsville, IL area that could assist? I can pay for time and trouble. thanks

 

Heres the quick way to get you running,take number one spark plug out ,which is the one closest to the distrubutor,shine a light inside spark plug hole and check both valves are fully closed,which means you are on the compression stroke,
if the valves are open ,you're 180 degrees out,rotate engine till both valves are closed and timing mark lines up.
Take your distributor cap off,taking note of which spark plug lead is facing torward number one spark plug in the head,loosen distributor so it rotates,but don't go crazy just yet.
turn power on,gently rotate distributor clockwise,slowly,if it rotates too far and numberone on the dizzy cap is out,rotate anti clockwise a bit first.you won't have to turn it bugger all.when the points spark.lock down the distributor,
the spark plug lead should still be facing toward number one plug,as the crows fly. check your dizzy cap is still where you marked number 1 lead,
set your points gap.
reinstall dizzy cap with leads and it should run,Johnny

 

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Thanks for the reply, I am using a RTR distributor. I have got it running by doing your method, but Don’t quote get final timing procedures and am not good enough to tune by ear.


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Give this a read.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=184107 and peruse here.
https://www.google.com/search?q=how...rome..69i57.8087j1j9&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Maybe there's a HAMB member near you who can offer some assistance.
Jump over to Fordbarn and check them out also.
If you lived in south FL I could help.

 

Add your location.Folks nearby can possably help.

 

"Asphalt Demon"s method works, but I think I can add something. Use a test light between the distributor terminal and ground. Slowly turn the distributor until the test light goes out. Tighten the distributor down and you should be good to go. If you have correctly done the preliminaries as described and been careful, everything should be right on. I should add, start with the distributor in a position where the test light is on and turn the distributor in the direction to advance the spark. I think it is CCW on an 8BA, but I've done it on so many kinds of engines, I'm not really sure.

 

Might I add.......adjust your points to the correct gap BEFORE you set the initial timing. Changing the gap afterward also changes the timing....not by very much, but it does change it.

If you widen the gap (after setting the timing), it advances the timing...in you close the gap, it retards the timing. That is because the distributor points cam begins to open the points a bit sooner in order to create the wider gap and, conversely, opens the points later when gap is narrower.

Meanwhile, the crank shaft is moving at twice the degrees of rotation that the distributor shaft is rotating, so the piston is not where it was when you set the timing and then change the gap.

 

Thanks!


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So do I need to disconnect the vaccine advance during timing setup on a ready to run distributor?


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I don't vaccinate when setting initial timing. An RTR has no points BTW. 8^)

 

My reply was general in nature for point style distributors and was prompted by an earlier post that suggested how to set the timing and then, as a final step, adjust the point gap.

 

Do I need to install timing tape, or am I missing something?

 

Should be a nub or dot on crank pulley, that is 2 deg BTDC. A timing tape would be required if you wanted to see more. My 8ba pulley is 6 3/4" dia and msd makes a tape for that diameter. Just put the 2deg line on the 2 deg mark on on your pulley.

 

Thank you for your reply. If I set at the 2 degree mark does that mean it is generally timed, or do I need to go further. I had it running at the 2 mark and it didn't sound bad.

 

Good starting point. Like any engine, some builds might like more advance than others but good baseline to start with.

 

ok, Got it running but it is dying. Looks like the rpm signal is dropping off which is how the gas is controlled by the EFI. I either have a bad distributor or a bad EFI unit. Thanks for all your help, much appreciated.

 

EFI mixed with flathead heads ?? Not really a language thats spoken fluently here.
Though you have complicated the mix somewhat ,someone still may be able to help.

 

Hook up a vacuum guage to manifold vacuum and try setting it to the highest vacuum while @ idle .Most Efi need a vacuum signal to work properly.

 

Borrow a timing light. Usally when I hear timed by ear and check it I find about 50 degrees total advance.

 

thanks for the good info!

 

What EFI? Do you have vacuum gauge on engine while you are setting base timing?

 

I set the pin and bump, and left vacuumed alone, it’s running good. Unfortunately my efi has a problem and is now in its way back to MSD.


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