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Projects 1950's Tube Frame Sports Car

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by jebbesen, Oct 5, 2015.

  1. jebbesen
    Joined: Aug 18, 2015
    Posts: 383

    jebbesen
    Member
    from Winona, MN

    So it's a pillow called a Boppy infant lounger. Sort of a baby bean bag. :). The pillow has a zip on cover which is what you see in the pic. She says she bought it at Target. That's as much as I can find out for you. Lol
     
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  2. tractorguy
    Joined: Jan 5, 2008
    Posts: 545

    tractorguy
    Member

    Thank you......thank you......now back to our regular programming !!
     
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  3. Jim Hassad
    Joined: Aug 9, 2015
    Posts: 49

    Jim Hassad
    Member

    I love your enthusiasm to restore someone else's dream. I too have a "homebuilt" car that was another's dream car, my father's. He actually began the project with sketches and research done during the WWII time he spent as a Govt. machinist doing sonar work for the Navy. Post war hot rodding exploded in So Cal where he lived, so his pavement racing chassis design became a test bed for a small Dodge hemi, supercharged at times, with visits to El Mirage dry lake and Bonneville. Over the 40 years of my ownership I created a new nose and hood reflecting the late '40s look of track racers and I was blessed to have been invited many times to the most iconic vintage track racing venues. Dad raced to a best top speed of 151 mph in 1958 and was able to run equal track times against other period race cars of the same era. Best of luck with your car and I am pleased you could connect with the original family.

    upload_2019-4-2_16-40-57.png

    upload_2019-4-2_16-42-37.png

    upload_2019-4-2_16-43-30.png

    upload_2019-4-2_16-44-12.png

    upload_2019-4-2_16-44-55.png


    I also enjoy making headers and I don't run mufflers either.
     
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  4. jebbesen
    Joined: Aug 18, 2015
    Posts: 383

    jebbesen
    Member
    from Winona, MN

    I really like it! Do you have any pics of the frame or any that show the whole car in it's original black version? What did the nose look like then?

    How has the Ford trans held up to the Hemi?
     
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  5. jebbesen
    Joined: Aug 18, 2015
    Posts: 383

    jebbesen
    Member
    from Winona, MN

    Sorry that my posts are such random topics but I'm trying to catch you guys up on things I've been working on.

    My brake/clutch "master plan"

    One of the things that the guy who helped build my car was the proudest of was the fact that they had hanging pedals in 1953. I want to maintain this. Here's a group photo of what I'm gonna do. I'll explain below. Obviously the pedals they used will have to be modified.
    IMG_20190402_201010.jpg

    I also want dual circuit brakes but there's no way to make a dual style master look the period. What I've settled on is running two 1" diameter 49-52 Chevy Powerglide master side by side with a homemade balance bar setup. I make custom pushrods that have swivel bearings. Think Wilwood Racing 50's style. There'll also be a swivel bearing that rides in the balance bar sleeve. That sleeve will be welded into the reworked brake pedal.
    IMG_20190402_201143.jpg IMG_20190402_201209.jpg
    IMG_20190402_214056.jpg
    For the clutch I want to go hydraulic since I may switch back and forth to try different trans setups and don't want to have to reconfigure the linkage every time. The clutch master will be the 38 Chevy master cylinder that came on the car. I saved the stop slug/travel limiter from a late 50's IH truck clutch master cylinder. That'll be installed in the master so I don't overstroke the slave.
    IMG_20190402_201038~2.jpg
    IMG_20190402_201055~2.jpg IMG_20190402_201125.jpg
    The slave will be a vintage slave I got from @cactus1 here. It's a Wagner Lockheed one like Moon Racing sold in the late 50's early 60's. It's obviously some sort of big truck oem one but they milled the numbers off the casting so I haven't figured out exactly what it is yet. I'll turn up and thread a new rod to fit the clevis from the Ford clutch linkage. There will be a brakes to mount it to the side of the trans probably to the shift cover bolts. Or to the pedal mounting bosses should I switch to the big Buick box.
    IMG_20190402_192515.jpg
    The pedal pads will be repop Ford ones. I radiused some pipe couplings so they can be welded onto the pedal arms and the pads screwed on. IMG_20190402_201749.jpg IMG_20190402_201759.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2019
    Stogy, slv63 and cactus1 like this.
  6. Jim Hassad
    Joined: Aug 9, 2015
    Posts: 49

    Jim Hassad
    Member

    P1000644.JPG Laguna+Seca+1994.jpg Scan0001.jpg


    The frame is gas welded 4130 tubing. It is 2" dia x .090 wall and has never had a crack. The upper a-arms are gas welded 4130 plate (.090) with bronze bushings.
    The rear axle is shortened model A axles and housings with a magnesium Halibrand quick change. I have a complete set of change gears from 1.9 to 5.10.
    Ahh, the weak link, the '39 ford tranny. I did tear a tooth off second gear on the cluster gear doing a burnout. And ouch, it was a Zephyr cluster too. Lowest price I found was $500 and that was 1991. So tranny is 100% '39 Ford and the weak link is the thrust washer which takes end load from second gear during deceleration. This causes the shift fork to kick gears into neutral, really fun on the race track.
    Luckily, the Chet Herbert roller cam my dad used has great low end torque and I could minimize shifts, almost like driving an automatic. I really enjoy letting my young GenX friends drive the car on the street to let them know what no power assist anything is like.
    In the second year of vintage racing I was more courageous on the track, until the brakes faded completely at 100 mph. I was faced with a 90 degree right hander in a vintage street race which ran through Palm Springs downtown. Slid the car sideways into a huge used tire catch barrier, cracked a little paint and dismounted my tubless rear tire from the rim. I was very relieved about the wheel as they are Halibrand magnesium from 1950 and are unobtanium. I purchased spun aluminum modern type racecar wheels for rest of my racing years.
    I am 70 yrs now and my health prevents me from driving it, but my adult kids and younger hot rodders will drive me around to car shows. BTW, engine has never been rebuilt, leaks more oil than it burns, not much really, and it still pulls to 6 grand. I hope your life will be full of great memories too.
     
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  7. jebbesen
    Joined: Aug 18, 2015
    Posts: 383

    jebbesen
    Member
    from Winona, MN

    What a great story. I'm glad you kept it and that you have kids to pass it on to! Thanks for sharing!
     
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  8. patsurf
    Joined: Jan 18, 2018
    Posts: 249

    patsurf

    x2!!
     
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  9. jebbesen
    Joined: Aug 18, 2015
    Posts: 383

    jebbesen
    Member
    from Winona, MN

    Put the axles in the lathe to check flange run-out and polish the seal diameter before pressing the bearings on. They seem about as decent as you can expect 70 yr old axles to be. IMG_20190407_185926.jpg IMG_20190407_185918.jpg
    I also need to make a centering ring to press on the end where the brake drum pilots. The early Ford drums have a larger center hole.

    I almost have my safety hubs all drawn up.
     
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  10. ROADSTER1927
    Joined: Feb 14, 2009
    Posts: 2,575

    ROADSTER1927
    Member

    I like your detail , on looks great as usual!:)
     
  11. gnichols
    Joined: Mar 6, 2008
    Posts: 10,499

    gnichols
    Member
    from Tampa, FL

    LOVE your car! Gary
     
  12. jebbesen
    Joined: Aug 18, 2015
    Posts: 383

    jebbesen
    Member
    from Winona, MN

    Got the new bearings and retainer rings pressed on. IMG_20190418_171628.jpg IMG_20190419_115925.jpg
     
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  13. Fabber McGee
    Joined: Nov 22, 2013
    Posts: 757

    Fabber McGee
    Member

    Haha, as you age, just hope the beer accumulates on your belly, not your butt. I can still sit in a sprint car seat I used in the 70's, but my shirt size has gone up somewhat. Good looking seats.
     
    Stogy likes this.
  14. ...and best of all, you didn't forget to put the retainer plates on the axles first.
     
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  15. jebbesen
    Joined: Aug 18, 2015
    Posts: 383

    jebbesen
    Member
    from Winona, MN

    Lol yeah I was worried about that!
     
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  16. jebbesen
    Joined: Aug 18, 2015
    Posts: 383

    jebbesen
    Member
    from Winona, MN

    Finished the slave pushrod.
    @cactus1
    Started with a 7/16 fine thread grade 8 bolt.
    Cut the threads longer (ignore the other part for now)-
    IMG_20190423_223058.jpg
    Added a grooved brass collar to hold the front end of the boot and radiused the back end to fit into the piston seat
    IMG_20190424_193203.jpg
    IMG_20190424_193210.jpg
    Boot slipped on the collar
    IMG_20190424_193244.jpg
    Assembled
    IMG_20190424_193307.jpg
    Now I need to make a bracket to hold it alongside the trans.
     
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  17. Dick Stevens
    Joined: Aug 7, 2012
    Posts: 2,610

    Dick Stevens
    Member

    Nice work!
     
  18. ROADSTER1927
    Joined: Feb 14, 2009
    Posts: 2,575

    ROADSTER1927
    Member

    :)Looking great again!:)
     
  19. jebbesen
    Joined: Aug 18, 2015
    Posts: 383

    jebbesen
    Member
    from Winona, MN

    Decided that I better pause and sleeve the 37 master that will run my clutch as well as the slave. When I looked at them closer they were both pitted in the bores and would have caused trouble.
    I bored them out and sleeved them with bronze bushing stock.
    Sleeves are a light press with Loctite sleeve retainer applied.
    IMG_20190603_225257.jpg
    Also the master has a foot that had been cracked off. I built it up with braze and ground it back to shape.
    IMG_20190603_225235.jpg
    IMG_20190606_205611.jpg
    For paint I was told that VHT caliper paint is resistant to brake fluid if you follow the directions and cure at 200F after it air dries. Jury is out on that but I decided to try it.
    Ready to finish hone the bronze sleeves and reassemble.
    IMG_20190607_151936.jpg IMG_20190607_151923.jpg
     
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  20. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 13,935

    Squablow
    Member

    Very clean work. Happy to see the early parts being saved.
     
  21. jebbesen
    Joined: Aug 18, 2015
    Posts: 383

    jebbesen
    Member
    from Winona, MN

    Thanks. The 37 one came on the car and the two 50 Powerglide ones are NOS. It's more work but fixing the stuff is half the fun for me. Here is a picture of how it looked when I got it.
    10296420_10153741380199870_2388350196059100156_o.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2019
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  22. jebbesen
    Joined: Aug 18, 2015
    Posts: 383

    jebbesen
    Member
    from Winona, MN

    I finally got my front engine crossmember replaced today. The original was a combination of angle iron and strap steel. It used the original Olds vulcanized rubber mount. You can sort of see it in this picture.
    20151005_174345.jpg
    IMG_20190610_172541.jpg
    I decided to replace it with a round tube one.
    IMG_20190609_154031 - Copy.jpg
    On the rear mounts I used some round pucks that are similar to early small block front mounts. The originals were soft rubber and had more or less disappeared as you can see from the following photo.
    12375275_10153741380114870_3097678523023848171_o.jpg
    Here are the rears after I reworked them.
    19437741_10155352505894870_8620123411544556629_n (1).jpg 19553916_10155354795309870_1116053328833219021_n.jpg
    The fronts will use the same biscuits. They are made by energy suspension so they're very stiff and should work well with the heavy Olds. The diameter was just slightly two large for the bolt spacing in the Olds mount so I flatted them so they'd sit closer together.
    IMG_20190609_154052.jpg
    IMG_20190609_154102.jpg
    The front frame of the car tapers at 10.5 degrees per side. To cope the tube I used a hole saw in my milling machine.
    IMG_20190609_154200.jpg
    Part of the original Olds setup is reused but the two holes where the rubber mount studs used to pass thru are slotted now. That way my fore and aft location of the crossmember doesn't need to be quite as dead nuts.
    IMG_20190609_154152 - Copy.jpg
    IMG_20190609_154049.jpg
    I welded square nuts into a chunk of square tube that straddles the round tube and gives the rubber pucks a flat spot to sit on.
    IMG_20190609_154041.jpg
    IMG_20190609_154144.jpg
    I'll have to maybe do a little more welding on the ends of the tube when I take the engine out eventually. Access wasn't very good with the car on blocks and the engine in the way.
    IMG_20190609_160524.jpg IMG_20190609_173753.jpg
    With all the mounts replaced the top of the carb is now level.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jun 10, 2019
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  23. jebbesen
    Joined: Aug 18, 2015
    Posts: 383

    jebbesen
    Member
    from Winona, MN

    A few pics of my brake balance bar that will connect the two brake master cylinders. @brigrat It's not adjustable like the Wilwood setupsbut I did make one of the pushrods slightly longer as my front circuit will have larger wheel cylinders. This will probably result in that master stroking further. You want the bar to be straight when you are standing on the brakes.

    IMG_20190423_222726.jpg IMG_20190610_183651.jpg IMG_20190610_182146.jpg IMG_20190610_182130.jpg IMG_20190610_182056.jpg IMG_20190501_052202.jpg IMG_20190707_082449.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2019
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  24. Dang! You fancy!
     
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  25. jebbesen
    Joined: Aug 18, 2015
    Posts: 383

    jebbesen
    Member
    from Winona, MN

    All scrounged up odds and ends. Just helps when you have a machine shop. :)

    I decided to sleeve the slave I got from you down to 1" so it matched the master diam. The banjo fittings I got from a trailer brake supply place.
     
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  26. ss34coupe
    Joined: May 13, 2007
    Posts: 4,051

    ss34coupe
    Member

    What a fantastic project!
     
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  27. UNSHINED 2
    Joined: Oct 30, 2006
    Posts: 905

    UNSHINED 2
    Member

    Man I love this thread!
     
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  28. jebbesen
    Joined: Aug 18, 2015
    Posts: 383

    jebbesen
    Member
    from Winona, MN

    Throw out bearing mods:
    Needed to space my throw out hearing ahead .135 since the Olds with the adapter plate was that much longer than a flathead when measured from bell to friction surface on the flywheel. @alchemy verified the dimension on his engine for me. Figured since the adapter plate is supposed to make the Olds look like a flathead that was the thing to do. A couple guys told me that sometimes the clutch would be grabby when used with the adapter plate either because the throw out bearing holder had to slide too far forward on the input shaft bearing retainer or due to the fork rotating too far forward. I made a .135" spacer ring but had to add length to the press diameter. Brazed it up and turned it down.

    Brazed and turned back down.
    IMG_20190706_193144.jpg

    Spacer ring slid on.
    IMG_20190706_193200.jpg

    Pressed together.
    IMG_20190706_195740.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2019
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  29. jebbesen
    Joined: Aug 18, 2015
    Posts: 383

    jebbesen
    Member
    from Winona, MN

    When I painted the trans last fall it turned out almost John Deere green. Decided to respray it before it goes back in. Dupli-color, racing green, engine enamel. Seems a pretty close match to the old Ford green. IMG_20190710_201444.jpg IMG_20190710_203908.jpg IMG_20190710_205044.jpg IMG_20190710_205054.jpg
     
  30. jebbesen
    Joined: Aug 18, 2015
    Posts: 383

    jebbesen
    Member
    from Winona, MN

    I have a cam! Bought this NOS Isky. It's a 601-282 hydraulic.
    IMG_20190815_204542.jpg
    IMG_20190815_173742.jpg IMG_20190815_173942.jpg
    What the numbers mean starting from the top according to a tech at Isky:
    IMG_20190815_204613.jpg
    -Cam was ground 3rd quarter of 1977

    -9P is the code for the guy who was running the grinder that day

    -08 means 108 degree lobe centerline

    -56 is the machine it was ground on

    -282 Hyd is obviously the grind 282 degree duration for hydraulic lifters

    -601 is the cam blank for the 56-58 Olds

    I figured it was ground after 1969 since it shows up in that catalog
    20171122_155828.jpg

    I'm pretty excited to find this. One more piece of the puzzle...
     
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