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Projects 1950's Tube Frame Sports Car

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by jebbesen, Oct 5, 2015.

  1. Terry Buffum
    Joined: Mar 20, 2008
    Posts: 305

    Terry Buffum
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Oregon

    Your proposed modifications to the Victress look very good!
    I've always pictured this as a Manning, but I like the 'glass better.
     
  2. Dave G in Gansevoort
    Joined: Mar 28, 2019
    Posts: 2,807

    Dave G in Gansevoort
    Member
    from Upstate NY

    Shouldn't be hard to accomplish. It'll look mid 50s Jaguar. Good choice.
     
    bchctybob likes this.
  3. patsurf
    Joined: Jan 18, 2018
    Posts: 1,108

    patsurf

    YOU have good 'buddies'...!!
     
    jebbesen likes this.
  4. jebbesen
    Joined: Aug 18, 2015
    Posts: 749

    jebbesen
    Member
    from Winona, MN

    Started mounting the steering gear. Here are a couple very rough sketches of how I plan to mount the bottom end of the gear/box. 20240324_204544.jpg 20240324_204506.jpg 20240324_210945.jpg

    I used a hole saw to cut a hole thru the lower tube and the frame web plate. That was not fun! Going thru the tube vs just the frame plate let's me lower the box a couple inches to help with header clearance. 20240324_144731.jpg
    I made a special bushing that will weld into the frame but still allow me to access the box adjustment when the box is in place.
    20240324_144717.jpg
    The angle is clamped there in that pic to keep the hole saw from kicking sideways as it entered the tubing at an angle.
    20240324_150844.jpg

    The extra little scallop cut from the frame web plate is from where the original wishbone hole sleeve was welded in
    It'll get filled. Here are a couple pics showing how the box sits in next to the frame.
    20240324_150956.jpg 20240324_150912.jpg

    The non-frame side of the box will be supported by a strut/crossmember that will run at an angle similar to how I have this piece of tie rod propped up under the box.

    20240324_151936.jpg

    The crossmember will incorporate this clamp. 20240407_150721.jpg

    Here is the clamp slid on the box.

    20240407_151428.jpg 20240407_155620.jpg

    These tabs will be welded on the main frame crossmembers. One on the front motor mount crossmember.
    20240407_160825.jpg

    One on the trans crossmember.
    20240407_160756.jpg

    This is kinda how the strut will be assembled. I'm going to use wishbone tubes since the oval shape helps it fit on the narrow clamp. 20240407_161438.jpg

    None of this probably makes much sense but I'll post more pics when I get further along.
     
    brEad, bchctybob, Squablow and 3 others like this.
  5. ROADSTER1927
    Joined: Feb 14, 2009
    Posts: 3,166

    ROADSTER1927
    Member

    Looks Great just like the rest of your project! Gary
     
  6. jebbesen
    Joined: Aug 18, 2015
    Posts: 749

    jebbesen
    Member
    from Winona, MN

    brEad, Shadow Creek, AHotRod and 3 others like this.
  7. jebbesen
    Joined: Aug 18, 2015
    Posts: 749

    jebbesen
    Member
    from Winona, MN

    Steering box mount work. At this point it's all tacked. Just took it back out to weld. 20240412_125901.jpg 20240412_125931.jpg 20240412_133644.jpg 20240412_133704.jpg 20240412_134739.jpg 20240412_134940.jpg 20240412_140620.jpg 20240412_141923.jpg
    20240412_145419.jpg 20240412_145408.jpg
     
    brEad, AHotRod, bchctybob and 3 others like this.
  8. jebbesen
    Joined: Aug 18, 2015
    Posts: 749

    jebbesen
    Member
    from Winona, MN

    Some period quality stick weld. Lol 20240412_154504.jpg 20240412_154515.jpg 20240412_154522.jpg

    Also before I took the tube out to weld I tacked the bushing into the frame.

    20240412_155052.jpg
     
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  9. jebbesen
    Joined: Aug 18, 2015
    Posts: 749

    jebbesen
    Member
    from Winona, MN

    Huh! Still fits even after welding!
    20240412_161939.jpg 20240412_161844.jpg 20240412_161900.jpg
     
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  10. jebbesen
    Joined: Aug 18, 2015
    Posts: 749

    jebbesen
    Member
    from Winona, MN

    Next time I work on the car I'll weld the two tabs onto the frame and finish welding the bushing into the framerail. I'll have to take the box out and jack the car up to get underneath for welding.
     
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  11. Dave G in Gansevoort
    Joined: Mar 28, 2019
    Posts: 2,807

    Dave G in Gansevoort
    Member
    from Upstate NY

    Looking good, Jeremy. That steering box mount is creative thinking at its best.
     
    Sharpone likes this.
  12. jebbesen
    Joined: Aug 18, 2015
    Posts: 749

    jebbesen
    Member
    from Winona, MN

    Got the tabs welded in and the header back in place. Primed the box. Wanted to do that before I put oil in it in case I spilled. It is so hard to get under this car to weld, even jacked up. At some point I'll have it apart to blast and paint. May have to grind some welds out and do a better job then. Lowering the box helped with pitman arm to header clearance. It's still close but better!

    20240413_161833.jpg 20240413_161824.jpg
     
    Sharpone, bchctybob, brEad and 4 others like this.
  13. jebbesen
    Joined: Aug 18, 2015
    Posts: 749

    jebbesen
    Member
    from Winona, MN

    I finished making the drag link this weekend. It's a combo of Case VAC tractor drag link, an early Ford adjustment sleeve, and a left hand thread tie rod end up at the steering arm. The Case used a unique grease fitting setup where the zerk is in the threaded adjustment plug. This seemed helpful with the tight clearances I have.
    20240419_153832.jpg
    Old drag links always seem to become slightly deformed so I heated the area around the hole and forged it back down against a steel shaft. That way it stayed round.
    20240421_124727.jpg 20240421_124848.jpg 20240421_125159.jpg
    The spring in the Case link was broken so I used the Case ball seats combine as with an F1 Ford spring.
    20240421_131106.jpg
    With the rod straight it looked like there might be clearance issues near the front header primary tube if the suspension moved up to full travel.
    20240421_133347.jpg

    Just to be safe I put a slight kink in the rod.

    20240421_134504.jpg 20240421_134457.jpg

    20240421_134802.jpg

    Then I sawed the link to length and threaded the end in the lathe. Case used good steel!

    20240421_151315.jpg

    I'm pretty happy how it turned out. I'll use high temp grease for the rear ball since it's so close to the header. I may also wrap just a couple inches of the center primary header tube.

    20240421_182021.jpg
     
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  14. jebbesen
    Joined: Aug 18, 2015
    Posts: 749

    jebbesen
    Member
    from Winona, MN

    In other news this afternoon I bought an Isky RR2 roller cam, set of .842 Isky solid roller lifters, pushrods, the original Isky rev kit, set of Isky 1.5 adjustable rockers, and another set of adjustable rockers. I'm not sure what make the second one is yet. They appear to be on 1.5 ratio stands so they must be aftermarket. Possibly Mcgurk. Needless to say I'm stoked....
     
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  15. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 17,534

    Squablow
    Member

    I know I've probably already said this 5 times in this thread but I continue to be impressed with the amount of machining, engineering, and fabrication in this car that doesn't even have a body yet.

    It's very nice work. You might have to write your own service manual as to what parts were used on this car.
     
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  16. jebbesen
    Joined: Aug 18, 2015
    Posts: 749

    jebbesen
    Member
    from Winona, MN

    New LH thread tie rod end for the front end of the drag link. The old Moog box is cool!
    20240425_164054.jpg 20240425_164131.jpg 20240425_164120.jpg
     
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  17. jebbesen
    Joined: Aug 18, 2015
    Posts: 749

    jebbesen
    Member
    from Winona, MN

    Swapped the grease boot on the new joint so it matches all my others.

    20240427_133645.jpg
     
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  18. jebbesen
    Joined: Aug 18, 2015
    Posts: 749

    jebbesen
    Member
    from Winona, MN

    Filled the box up with corn head grease, tightened the pitman arm on, and tightened both ends of the drag link. I have just under 3.5 turns lock to lock. That's probably quick enough. I was shooting to be under 3 but I think my steer arm ended up slightly longer than I'd anticipated.

    20240428_143653.jpg 20240428_160801.jpg

    This is generally how my brake and clutch masters will sit. I'm reusing parts of the original pedals. Obviously they'll have to get reconfigured.

    20240428_160249.jpg
    20240428_160824.jpg
    20240428_160848.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2024
    Sharpone, brEad, bchctybob and 4 others like this.
  19. ROADSTER1927
    Joined: Feb 14, 2009
    Posts: 3,166

    ROADSTER1927
    Member

    Looken Good Buddy!
     
    Sharpone likes this.
  20. jebbesen
    Joined: Aug 18, 2015
    Posts: 749

    jebbesen
    Member
    from Winona, MN

    Wish it was happening faster but I keep chipping away at it.
     
  21. jebbesen
    Joined: Aug 18, 2015
    Posts: 749

    jebbesen
    Member
    from Winona, MN

    Decided to fix up one of the 1.8 adjustable rocker sets I have to put on the car right now. Most weren't too bad but a couple had pretty good tip wear. This set is some sort of iron with induction hardened tips. I didn't want to risk welding on them so I just took a little extra off the tips on a couple. I made sure and kept them cool while grinding.

    Messenger_creation_8f57d8c6-1cb7-4efd-834f-9174136900df.jpg
    Messenger_creation_8379a08e-6da5-4452-943f-06b4979f1032.jpg

    I saw a guy grind ironhead sportster rockers on a surface grinder and thought I'd give it a try.

    20240501_133441.jpg 20240501_133434.jpg

    I'm having trouble embedding the video. Here's a link to the video. If I figure out how to put it in here without the link I'll come back and edit it.

    https://youtube.com/shorts/5b5Aw-dq2iw?feature=shared

    I'm happy how they turned out.

    20240502_095903.jpg
    20240502_120128.jpg
     
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  22. V8-m
    Joined: Jun 11, 2020
    Posts: 205

    V8-m
    Member
    from Alaska

    Good idea and the result is very nice.
     
    Sharpone likes this.
  23. Dick Stevens
    Joined: Aug 7, 2012
    Posts: 3,750

    Dick Stevens
    Member

    Posting the link is the only way to post videos on the HAMB
     
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  24. jebbesen
    Joined: Aug 18, 2015
    Posts: 749

    jebbesen
    Member
    from Winona, MN

    Ok. I thought there used to be a way to do it. No worries.
     
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  25. ROADSTER1927
    Joined: Feb 14, 2009
    Posts: 3,166

    ROADSTER1927
    Member

    Looking Great!:D
     
    Sharpone likes this.
  26. jebbesen
    Joined: Aug 18, 2015
    Posts: 749

    jebbesen
    Member
    from Winona, MN

    I've put a lot of thought into how I wanted to rework the back end of the frame. Two things make it necessary to modify it: I'd like to have a roll bar and also to run the 38-40 Ford gas tank the frame needs to slope down. Here is a picture showing how the tank sat when I got it. The angle is all wrong and make it so the sender doesn't sit right.
    20151014_144936.jpg

    Angling the frame down isn't too big of a deal but being able to run a roll bar made me do some head scratching. I sit leaned back against the original main crossmember. Putting a roll bar on that would position it right alongside my head but the frame behind the rear crossmember/spring mount as it was built had no real strength. I decided that I will add a crossmember made from 2-1/4 DOM tube.
    20240511_192129.jpg

    The added crossmember will be welded into the original side tubes and also tied to the original crossmember with 4 short 1-3/4 tubes. The rear section will be reattached at the appropriate angle behind this tube. I clamped my cheap tubing notcher to the frame to make the cuts.
    20240511_151149.jpg

    Here the rear section is removed.

    20240511_152917.jpg 20240511_152910.jpg

    Here's a very rough idea how it'll be put back together.

    20240511_153801.jpg 20240511_153849.jpg
     
    Sharpone, brEad, Shadow Creek and 5 others like this.
  27. ROADSTER1927
    Joined: Feb 14, 2009
    Posts: 3,166

    ROADSTER1927
    Member

    Looks great as usual! Gary
     
    Sharpone likes this.
  28. jebbesen
    Joined: Aug 18, 2015
    Posts: 749

    jebbesen
    Member
    from Winona, MN

    I've been working on the pieces that will attach the removable roll bar hoop. The bar will be 1.75 DOM .130 wall. I'm going to have a local race shop guy bend it up. He does great work and says he can do a 7" centerline bend radius so that should look pretty vintage. I want to have the bar bent up before welding the 2.25 DOM sleeves so I don't have to try and hit a center spacing with the bar.
    20240524_071028.jpg 20240524_070528.jpg 20240524_070536.jpg
    20240524_082643.jpg
    20240524_070549.jpg 20240524_070544.jpg 20240524_071056.jpg

    The 2.25 DOM sleeves will get built into the frame and will eventually be accessible in the rear wheel wells. The nuts are Eaton semi truck axle pinion shaft nuts and are really good stuff. I cut the step in them to fit the inside of the frame sleeves. The main threaded piece is 1018 cold rolled steel for good weldability and will slip inside the 1.75 hoop tube.
     
    Last edited: May 24, 2024
  29. jebbesen
    Joined: Aug 18, 2015
    Posts: 749

    jebbesen
    Member
    from Winona, MN

    20240527_161153.jpg

    I spent a couple hours today on the car and got the tubes welded in the front of the frame that on the drivers side will support the brake/clutch master cylinders.

    20240527_155916.jpg

    20240527_155850.jpg 20240527_155905.jpg 20240527_155937.jpg 20240527_160813.jpg

    Now I have to work on mounting the masters, reworking the pedals, and making the upper column mount

    20240527_172115.jpg
     
    bchctybob, brEad, V8-m and 3 others like this.
  30. jebbesen
    Joined: Aug 18, 2015
    Posts: 749

    jebbesen
    Member
    from Winona, MN

    Also this week I will have the roll bar hoop bent.
     
    bchctybob, brEad, loudbang and 2 others like this.

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