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1950 plymouth rear end

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by kyle paul, Jun 2, 2010.

  1. delete
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2014
  2. RopeSeals???
    Joined: Jul 2, 2007
    Posts: 444


    I've never seen any... Ended up using a 8 1/4" out of a Diplomat with a final in the high 2's and a new driveline in a '50 Chrysler Royal...

    Better brakes and same lug pattern as well...
  3. bct
    Joined: Apr 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,090


    i used a dakota rear...diplomat brakes
  4. years ago i did a bunch of research on that style of rear, the best I could come up with was 3.54
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  5. a 3 54 wont be bad .where did you find that? i may just throw a 700r4 in it for him
  6. Grandadeo
    Joined: Dec 24, 2008
    Posts: 792


    I know Normspeed on here had an extra '50 rearend. But that's been a while.

  7. check '54 to '56 Powerflite equipped cars. I found one in a '54 Dodge that had a Hemi/Powerflite.

    honestly, you're better off switching to a rear that's easier to get parts for, like a 8 1/4 Mopar, a Dana 44, or an 8" Ford.
  8. i used a dana 30 out of a jeep cherokee. lot's of gear options for it.
  9. phukinartie
    Joined: Oct 8, 2008
    Posts: 965


    Ford 8 or 9" from a 60's cougar, perfect width and many gear ratios
  10. I don't understand why you'd keep the rearend that you need a damned industrial-strength puller that could also be used to pull a locomotive down the track, to get the drums off to do a brake job. I think I'd rather put new shock and 4-link brackets on a rearend once, than have to pull those drums more than once.

    Well, at least I assume it's like most other '50s Mopars with the tapered axle rearend in it. I suspect by the time you buy the puller, the new gearset, and the stuff for new brakes you could have bought two newer used rearends and put new brakes and brackets on them.
  11. rjgideon
    Joined: Sep 12, 2005
    Posts: 526


    Switching the rear to something more common is the cheapest and best solution in the long run.
  12. here's what I've found.. there isn't anything for those other then bearings and seals. they were the predecessor to the 8 3/4 rear. they're bullet proof but don't have any aftermarket support. I've found a 8 3/4 out of a full size is the same width. and if you have a welder and a cutoff wheel its like a 2 hour job to swap.

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