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1950 mercury 4door chop question

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by mikef, Mar 4, 2013.

  1. mikef
    Joined: Sep 29, 2007
    Posts: 20

    mikef
    Member
    from chicago

    Was wondering if anyone has any experience with a 4door mercury. Here are a couple pictures of progress so far. I cut from the b pillar back to get everything aligned but my main question was should I slant the a- pillars slightly to get the roof to drop and align or is there a better way to go about it ? I appreciate any help thank you
     

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  2. 4rod
    Joined: Feb 4, 2008
    Posts: 806

    4rod
    Member

    Typically, You want to line up the A pillars first (start front to back), by pie cutting at the base of the pillar...after lining up the A pillars, you can see what is needed to line up the B pillar. Typically, the door "front in your case," Has to have some work added to the window frame...Due to the roof line dropping, this will line up your B pillar, Next is working on the 1/4 window side of the B pillar, Adding a bit of what you cut out of the Pillar helps in the Fab process...Then lastely, the C Pillar, where you'll descide how much your going to lay down the rear window...then add sheet metal from there...hope that helps
     
  3. mikef
    Joined: Sep 29, 2007
    Posts: 20

    mikef
    Member
    from chicago

    I actually already did the a-pillars here are some pics. So you are saying that I should cut at the base of the a-pillar ?
     

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  4. slddnmatt
    Joined: Mar 30, 2006
    Posts: 3,685

    slddnmatt
    Member

    Line up the A pillar first, as 4rod said, then get your C pillar trimmed to size to acheive the side profile you like and tack it up, then tackle the B pillars...if you lean back the A pillars, the windshied tends to have the look of getting kicked in the forehead..Your chop looks to be about 5" or so out of the A pillar judging by the side window openings, it would be wise to relief cut the A pillars at the top and bottom window radius if you haven't already to achieve a smooth look. You should add a relief cut lower than your chop point on the B pillars also to lean in the post to get the alignment correct to the roof..FULLY WELD NOTHING!..I will install all the new filler pieces and what not, so i have a completed chop with all the new pieces of metal tacked in place. Then if everything is good, then i start the fun process of welding up everything...

    Post more pics too:)
     
  5. this way?
     

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  6. Looks nice, where you located? I'm on the North side.
     
  7. WWinIL
    Joined: Mar 1, 2012
    Posts: 194

    WWinIL
    Member

    I just bought a dvd for a 2 dr sedan off ebay. Same seller has them for a 4 dr. for $20. It's the Tommy Steadman (member maxtshirts, who recently passed away) produced dvd. It has gotten good reviews on here from other members. For the price you can't go wrong. Not being a schill for it, but they are being sold by TS son.

    I'm also in the area, and just picked up a '51 2 dr. Looks like quite a growing number of '49-'51 Merc's in the Chi-town vicinity.

    Walt
     
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2013
  8. slddnmatt
    Joined: Mar 30, 2006
    Posts: 3,685

    slddnmatt
    Member

    i would cut the A pillar loose, look at your pic, there is a angle to your gutter..looks like its bent. you can get away on smaller chops only relieving the top or bottom but not yours. The one in the pic was a 5" chop
     

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  9. You should never cut thru the drip rail up into roof skin at the B pillars;;;;I am always suprised how many people dont know how to do it the right way and make an extra couple days work [for nothing]..... doing that.....
     
  10. Doctor Detroit
    Joined: Aug 12, 2010
    Posts: 1,055

    Doctor Detroit
    Member

  11. WWinIL
    Joined: Mar 1, 2012
    Posts: 194

    WWinIL
    Member

  12. You would be hard pressed to find a nicer 4dr chop than the "Sewer Pickle"...
    [​IMG]
     
    Frank Kennedy, Dirk50merc and Sprout like this.
  13. Waste of time chopping a 4 door.
     
  14. mikef
    Joined: Sep 29, 2007
    Posts: 20

    mikef
    Member
    from chicago

    Thank you I really appreciate all the help
     
  15. Yeah? I don't agree.

    [​IMG]
     
  16. Your car is looking really good. I like the way you re-worked the rear door frames. That's the way to go, well worth it. I lined my a-pillars up first, then made everything else match.
     
  17. mikef
    Joined: Sep 29, 2007
    Posts: 20

    mikef
    Member
    from chicago

    My main concern is with that gap I have above the drip rail . I do not want to add to it. I want the roof to meet it like it was originally that's why I asked the question about slanting the a pillar slightly
     
  18. mikef
    Joined: Sep 29, 2007
    Posts: 20

    mikef
    Member
    from chicago

    I was actually trying to do what this guy did
     

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  19. mikef
    Joined: Sep 29, 2007
    Posts: 20

    mikef
    Member
    from chicago

    As you can see he cut into the drip rail as well but the roof lines up nice with the b pillar section he moved . Unlike my car where you can see that gap above the drip rail
     

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  20. mikef
    Joined: Sep 29, 2007
    Posts: 20

    mikef
    Member
    from chicago

    One more pic
     

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  21. slddnmatt
    Joined: Mar 30, 2006
    Posts: 3,685

    slddnmatt
    Member

    if you cut say 5" out of the A pillar on yours measuring along its length and then you cut 5" vertically out of the B pillar, The spots are not going to match back up where you want them to. The A pillar is chopped less vertically than the B, by about .75" or so.
     
  22. Send Deuce Gasser a PM,,he did a fantastic job on a 4 door Mercury several years ago. HRP
     
  23. Really,the best time to get and use advice is before you cut.
    It really is fairly straightforward if you have the right plan [and stick to that plan.]
    After almost 40 years of cutting tops and buiding cars-I still ask for advice at times,its not something to be ashamed of,we can't know everything..........
    ya just have to resist the temptation to cut first and ask questions later.....
     
  24. mikef
    Joined: Sep 29, 2007
    Posts: 20

    mikef
    Member
    from chicago

  25. mikef, Matt (slddnmatt) is a super cool resource and you might need to get on the phone with him. I've been to his shop and he made my wing windows for me after I had a set boogered up by a local guy.
     
  26. cfnutcase
    Joined: Nov 29, 2008
    Posts: 1,032

    cfnutcase
    Member
    from Branson mo

    There are a bunch of shots in my folder of my merc 4-door chop, I did it a lot different that most would do but it worked. The one thing that I really like that you are doing is keeping the curve in the rear door, that is something that to me is a really nice look on the merc 4-door, I am going to help a buddy chop his this summer and we did a practice chop on a parts car I have and got the back door area down-pat so we can get that right on his. I think the best ever done is Bo Huffs Dixie Delux merc 4-door, that car is really hammerd and looks fantastic, it has a really nice profile, that is the way a 4-door merc should look IMO. Jim
     
  27. cfnutcase
    Joined: Nov 29, 2008
    Posts: 1,032

    cfnutcase
    Member
    from Branson mo

    Subscribed by the way! Jim
     
  28. I think the sewer pickle along with the other cars shown prove that even a family man can have a kick ass custom!!! haha.

    I'm in the middle of trying to decide whether I want to leave my 4 door stock but lowered with olds 324 power :D ... chop it or go crazy and make it a two door. This thread gives me some faith in a four door chop.

    Keep up the good work!!
     
  29. These are very wise and true words!!!

    Since i am not good with words here are some pics and a few words. The B pillar is a bit tricky. When i cut them lose i cut about 1 3/4" more out of the back side then swap them side for side and i do not cut the drip rail unless it is 100% nessity.

    GB, Erickson
    Extreme Kustoms
    951 678-3520
     

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  30. Good trick EXK.......WE learn by listenin'.
    A way for the untold to move that B pillar on a 4 dr without cuttin thru the drip is to use a thin 4-1/2" cutoff wheel and slice horizontally about 1/8" under the drip rail,cutting thru the whole roof channel.
    this removes the B and leaves the drip undamaged.
    It also leaves a bit of the inside roof rail support connected so it does not lose dimension.
    when welded bac in the B pillar looks like was never moved as the weld is mostly in the doorjamb and behind the door top.
    EXK's trick of doing the offset cut and swapping sides will add th the clean replacement of you B posts......

    "theres no better cut on any chop, than one you can eliminate......".
     

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