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Projects 1950 Fleetline Deluxe build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by RUSS BUCKLIN, Jan 16, 2020.

  1. RUSS BUCKLIN
    Joined: Sep 18, 2017
    Posts: 143

    RUSS BUCKLIN
    Member
    from Seattle

    Question: Should I think about replacing the rear leafs with something new/fresh? I want to keep stock height and already ordered stock height new front coils. Other suspension plans include larger sway bars and good shocks. The car is getting an open driveline rear, no more torque tube. I don't know if that makes a difference in the leaf springs or not.
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  2. brokedownbiker
    Joined: Jun 7, 2016
    Posts: 617

    brokedownbiker
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I'll be interested in seeing the answers to your question, I'm going 2" lower than stock but am also switching to open driveline.
     
  3. Nostrebor
    Joined: Jun 25, 2014
    Posts: 1,109

    Nostrebor
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You can run the stock leaves if they are in good shape. You'll have to lose the "slide" point at the axle mount with an open drive line.

    My car was on the stock set until I bagged it. Worked fine.
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  4. RUSS BUCKLIN
    Joined: Sep 18, 2017
    Posts: 143

    RUSS BUCKLIN
    Member
    from Seattle

    Hi All,

    After all kinds of flip flopping, final drive train decision is made. It pains me to say it, but it's getting a 350 SBC (so cliche). Trans will either be a T5 or Muncie 4spd, both are currently available in my area on CL.

    Does anyone have any thoughts about T5 vs Muncie? The overdrive 5th is nice and opens up options for a rear axle, but the Muncie has the nostalgic appeal. I had one behind a 283 in my old 59 panel way back when.

    Also, what is the best rear end to swap in to replace the torque tube? What GM model rear ends fit are the correct widths? I want a GM posi with disks. If I go Muncie I will need diff ratio under 3, if I go T5 I can go up to mid 3's to have the cruising rpms I want. Any experience to share out there?

    Thanks.
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  5. Nostrebor
    Joined: Jun 25, 2014
    Posts: 1,109

    Nostrebor
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Trans really boils down to what do you want. If you are not going to hammer on it, the T5 will be fine. Choose one before you choose your rear, as 3.07 will work better with the 4, 3.73 will work better with the 5.

    Packaging is a bit tight with a SBC, so the toploader aspect of the 5 speed is nice. My car got really crowded really fast on the driver's side, but I kept the master under floor as well.
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  6. Nostrebor
    Joined: Jun 25, 2014
    Posts: 1,109

    Nostrebor
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    If you need pics of anything concerning my swap let me know. I conveniently have the body off the frame at the moment.
     
  7. RUSS BUCKLIN
    Joined: Sep 18, 2017
    Posts: 143

    RUSS BUCKLIN
    Member
    from Seattle

    Nostrebor, Yes, pics please!! I am very much a visual learner.

    This will be a cruiser for sure, but I will certainly likely get on it from time to time. No hot starts though, never been a burnout kind of guy.
     
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  8. RUSS BUCKLIN
    Joined: Sep 18, 2017
    Posts: 143

    RUSS BUCKLIN
    Member
    from Seattle

    Progress,

    Saturday the redhead and I will pick up a crate 350, Camaro t5 trans, 350 bellhousing and flywheel, 55 Chev complete rear axle.
    Motor mounts from Speedway arrived yesterday.
    Front frame is degreased, wire wheeled and almost ready for paint.
    Front suspension is disassembled and almost ready for paint and rebuild kit.
    (anyone know what size reamer I need for the linkpin bushings?)
     
  9. Nostrebor
    Joined: Jun 25, 2014
    Posts: 1,109

    Nostrebor
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I'll send you over some by PM. My build has a lot of not HAMB friendly, so I don't want to mess up your thread.
     
  10. brokedownbiker
    Joined: Jun 7, 2016
    Posts: 617

    brokedownbiker
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    @Nostrebor, are you willing to share the pics? I'm starting a '50 Fleetline build and could use some visuals.
     
  11. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,117

    RMONTY
    Member

    You shouldn't need a reamer for the kingpin bushings if it is a stock 1950 front end. Wait, you said linkpin bushings...:confused:
     
  12. GearheadsQCE
    Joined: Mar 23, 2011
    Posts: 2,674

    GearheadsQCE
    Member

    If you are sizing king pin bushings, take the spindles to an Automotive machine shop and have them honed. Much better fit.
     
  13. RUSS BUCKLIN
    Joined: Sep 18, 2017
    Posts: 143

    RUSS BUCKLIN
    Member
    from Seattle

    The front suspension is blown apart and soaking in the parts washer. The king pins feel surprisingly tight, how does one tell if they nee to be redone? I don't want to take them apart unnecessarily.
     
  14. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 20,663

    Roothawg
    Member

    So let me ask a dumb question. Why would you clear over rust/patina? Just curious what you are trying to preserve? If a little patina is good, then wouldn’t a lot be better? Asking for a friend...
     
  15. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 20,663

    Roothawg
    Member

    I built a 50 Fleetline years ago and the perfect rear end for that car is a 55-57 Chevy pass car with a 3.36 gear. They won’t hold up to 500 hp ,but a 235 won’t hurt em. They fit with no modifications. Literally bolts in.
     
  16. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 20,119

    Moriarity
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    55-57
     
  17. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 20,663

    Roothawg
    Member

    Did they go to coils in 58? Fixed my reply.
     
  18. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 20,119

    Moriarity
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    yup
     
  19. RUSS BUCKLIN
    Joined: Sep 18, 2017
    Posts: 143

    RUSS BUCKLIN
    Member
    from Seattle

    Roothawg,

    The idea behind satin clearing the exterior, or oil finishing it as many patina guys do, is to arrest the rust that has be starting under the stainless trim. It isn't through the metal, but it's getting a little thin in some places and I would like that to stop.
     
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  20. RUSS BUCKLIN
    Joined: Sep 18, 2017
    Posts: 143

    RUSS BUCKLIN
    Member
    from Seattle

    Been a while, but have gotten a fair amount done. Drive train is a 350 crate with T5 5spd, hydraulic pedal system from Walton Fabrications. Power steering conversion from EZSteer, stock original crossmember, rebuilt woth parts from Chevsofthe40s.com. Tomorrow the steering goes back in and hopefully the brakes as well. Still waiting on parts from Walton. IMG_2223.JPG
     
  21. brokedownbiker
    Joined: Jun 7, 2016
    Posts: 617

    brokedownbiker
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    @RUSS BUCKLIN You did a good job on that front end, it looks like new. You're making some real progress, good on ya!
     
  22. flyin flattie
    Joined: Oct 13, 2005
    Posts: 444

    flyin flattie
    Member

    [​IMG][​IMG]


    Ok here’s what I did. C notched the back frame rails and deartched the rear leafs 2 inches with 4 inch blocks (6” total). put dropped uprights on the stock suspension up front and cut one coil out = 4-5” drop. Split exhaust, protronix and an alternator. Finally a T-5 out of an S10 with a 10 bolt out of a 60s camaro or fire bird. Car did 80 mph all day maxed out at 120 mph and got 25 mpg.


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  23. RUSS BUCKLIN
    Joined: Sep 18, 2017
    Posts: 143

    RUSS BUCKLIN
    Member
    from Seattle

    Flyin Flattie, pics of the engine compartment? You did what I was originally intending to do, it sounds like. A lot of days right now I think maybe I should have stuck with that plan, but hindsight and all that so now committed to the (cliche) 350sbc. It'll be ok though, once it's done. I haven't owned a v-8 car in a few decades so sort of looking forward to it. IMG_2227.JPG IMG_2228.JPG IMG_2228.JPG
     
  24. greaser 35
    Joined: Feb 15, 2010
    Posts: 661

    greaser 35
    Member
    from FRANCE

    What's a hubcaps ??????It's soo kool !!!!!!
     
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  25. RUSS BUCKLIN
    Joined: Sep 18, 2017
    Posts: 143

    RUSS BUCKLIN
    Member
    from Seattle

  26. Nostrebor
    Joined: Jun 25, 2014
    Posts: 1,109

    Nostrebor
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Will those shortys headers work with your steering conversion? I'm not sure about your setup, but the stock steering will not clear those on the driver's side.

    The work looks great! You will have to remove the fins on the firewall (or at least a portion) and probably clearance your front body mount sheet metal for the V8 as well. Don't go too crazy on the mounts, the previous owner of my car got carried away.
     
  27. Nostrebor
    Joined: Jun 25, 2014
    Posts: 1,109

    Nostrebor
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Here's mine for an example. The body mounts don't need this much clearance, but the damage was already done. I just cleaned them up.

    The firewall fins were just chopped straight back above the V8, but it was crude, so I just removed them. 20191127_145335.jpeg

    Sent from my SM-G930V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  28. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,117

    RMONTY
    Member

    Wow! That is extreme, isnt it?
     
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  29. Nostrebor
    Joined: Jun 25, 2014
    Posts: 1,109

    Nostrebor
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    It works fine. It is a big departure from stock though! You can trim into the first web and leave the inner mount and have enough clearance for most any exhaust issue.
     
  30. RUSS BUCKLIN
    Joined: Sep 18, 2017
    Posts: 143

    RUSS BUCKLIN
    Member
    from Seattle

    The shorties are going, already shopping for stock manifolds. You would think they would be more available than they are. At least on Craigslist. I read in one build that I might need a center dump on the passenger side and a rear dump on the drivers side, anyone know anything about that? Would like to have a clue before putting out the money.
     

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