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Projects 1950 Chopped Chevy Sedan Delivery

Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by RMONTY, Jan 15, 2016.

  1. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

    Made a small road trip this morning up to Chickasaw Swap meet and scored exactly what I went in search of.....it was so windy up there I only walked around for an hour or so. But mission accomplished! The steering wheel sitting on the seat I had upholstered awhile back. 20201017_132641.jpg
     
  2. Outstanding condition! When did you decide to use a 54 wheel.
     
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  3. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

    When I bought the 53-54 column from you!;)

    It's like Johnny Cash's car...its a 1950, 51,52,53,54....
     
  4. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

    Dick, I have been looking for the right steering wheel for awhile. It just so happens it was hanging up on the guy's display this morning and we were both motivated to make a deal!
     
  5. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

    Ive been doing a bunch of little things to the car. Ive had some other projects getting in the way but every little task is one less to do. Got the passenger door latch dialed in. I couldnt be happier with the ease at which it latches and stays closed.

     
  6. I guess you can close the door on that task ;)
     
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  7. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

    I need to get some Kilmat or something on the inside of the car. The slightest bump or bang resonates like a big ol' metal headed drum. I haven't decided what product to use yet, but I need to look into that and find something that has good insulation properties as well as sound deadening. I am going to put an A/C in this car, and there is a lot of sheet metal that needs to be insulated.
     
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  8. Lots of great work. I give you high marks for taking this project on. It is inspirational.


    Sent from my iPad using H.A.M.B.
     
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  9. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

    Thank you sir! It's been a journey for sure!
     
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  10. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

    Been doing some work....the car isn't flopping around like a wet noodle anymore. The drivers side door is latching as well as the passengers side now.

    I've been trying to dial in my MIG with the .024 and it is either too hot, or too cold. I blew a few holes but easily enough fixed.

    More welding and grinding in my future....but progress is progress...

    20201126_114638.jpg 20201126_205220.jpg 20201126_205155.jpg 20201126_205320.jpg 20201126_205249.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2020
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  11. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

    Driver's door jamb all set in place. Door latches well.

    20201126_204712.jpg 20201126_204701.jpg 20201126_204739.jpg 20201126_204726.jpg
     
  12. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

  13. Mopar Tony
    Joined: Jun 11, 2019
    Posts: 563

    Mopar Tony
    Member

    Looking good. I don't think the doors on my daily shut that good LOL
     
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  14. Looks like it's coming along nicely. I admire your work ethic.
    As far as insulation I've heard (but have no actual experience yet)the Lizard Skin spray on product works well. There are two kinds, one for sound, one for heat. I plan to use them in my project '32 and parts of my F-1.
     
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  15. RealOG
    Joined: Nov 3, 2020
    Posts: 19

    RealOG
    Member
    from FRANCE

    Impressive work
    Imo the original grill must be keep But maybe molded in with little chrome touch to keep the custom vibe.
    Good choice of steering wheels, I love it
     
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  16. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

    Tonight was a big night for me. I finally got the balls to cut the tops and start mating the two tops together. I have been wanting to see this done, so tonight was the night. I only have the top roof skin cut right now. I am taking this really slow as this is my first attempt at something like this. I picked up some techniques at a chop class last year at Jeff Myers shop in Arkansas City that was put on by Joel Davis (@Pinstriper40 Thanks again Jeff and Joel for the exercise in self confidence building!), and have watched Fitzee's videos many times to get some pointers. I used some filler spreaders to raise the top roof skin slightly so I didn't have to cut into the bottom skin, hoping to get a good 45 degree cut for welding. The two roofs laid down really flat against each other when I mated the two roofs earlier this year which was a good thing!

    I am going to clean up the underside with a flap disk, and tack the two together at the seam with the MIG welder, and then attempt to TIG weld the majority of the seam. My TIG skills aren't where I would like them to be, but we will see how that goes.
     
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  17. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

  18. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

  19. It's very common when setting up to Tig weld no matter the material to take some scrap of the same material and do some practice seams. This lets you set your machine and get a good feel for how it takes the filler rod. Once you get a nice bead on the expendable material then go to work on your Body. I also do a few vertical practice seams. You'll find that changing position of your seams often requires a little change up in application. Rule #2, Clean both sides twice and then clean your filler wire with a white scotch bright bad.
     
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  20. If those 6 tack welds are Mig it looks like you need to increase your shielding gas flow. If your not using 75/25 gas do yourself a favor and switch over. Those look like strait C02 and low flow.
     
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  21. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

    PNB, I have a bunch of scraps from the roof that I am going to practice on before I try to make the seam. I am going to try to set up the 4T function so I dont have to use the pedal.

    As I mentioned, I am going to clean the underside with a flap disk to make sure I have good clean metal before attempting the seam.

    As far as the MIG tacks, I am not sure what is going on there. I switched to .024 wire, and have adjusted the 75/25 mix to everything from 15 PSI up to 30 PSI, and the tacks still look dirty. I need to figure out what is up with that. I noticed it as well and don't like it at all!
     
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  22. Myself and my machine with .030 wire I run between 12 and 16 psi on 75/25. I also run a small cup. I just know what cup to use by looking at them, I'm going to say about 1/2" opening. If your using a large cup your gas isn't staying on the tack weld. I routinely weld hotter and move faster than others. Slow moving makes stack up and fall through. I also tend to weld 3/8" to 5/8" at a time in skip welds while doing what your trying to get done. The .030 wire I'm talking about is Mig wire in about 30" lengths right off the spool and used as Tig fill wire.
     
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  23. I somehow lost a sentence. Once tacked with Mig I go to my tig machine and keep using .030
     
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  24. I also have 2 Hand Amp control units. Ones a trigger and one a slide, I've never liked using them. Only time I change over is if I'm standing on my head or another odd position that makes using my pedal impossible. I'm actually pretty good at laying under things with the pedal under my knee. I guess it's all up to the individual. I kinda like laying down as much as I can anymore. Comes with Age I think.
     
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  25. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

    Started practicing the TIG a bit. I know it isn't a "stack of dimes" quality yet, and I am sure some of you are shaking your heads and pointing, but for the first pass I am ok with it. I think I have the amperage set just about right. There seems to be plenty of penetration through to the underside. First pic is the side I welded, and the second is the underside. For prep work, I just did a quick sanding with a flap disk, no acetone to clean or anything. I wanted to start with just basics, and see how good I can get it looking by doing different things like cleaning with acetone before welding, etc.

    The big crater was where I started at 40 amps, then the second smaller crater was 35, and I ended up welding @ 30 amps. Argon flowing @ 20 CFH. I am using the 4T function on the torch.

    Alot more practice before moving to the car........

    All critiques and suggestions welcomed!

    OutsideWeld1.jpg InsideWeld1.jpg
     
  26. patsurf
    Joined: Jan 18, 2018
    Posts: 1,038

    patsurf

    don't give the mig away JUST yet...just teasing you!
     
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  27. I know I'm the idiot of this bunch, but why tig and not mig? I weld on cars just about every day and I use a Lincoln 175 mig. I get that it's "clean and pretty", but when you're wiping body filler over it why does it matter? Teach me something here
     
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  28. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

    You are quite the motivator! :mad::p
     
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  29. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

    I doubt that I can teach you much as I am a total amateur! I am an ex freon jockey, you are the paint and body guy!

    I have read and seen where TIG welds are more malleable and cause less warpage, easier to control the heat, etc. I chose to use it on the roof above the windshield area for these reasons, and just because. The end result will hopefully be a really nice metal finish so no filler is needed, or at least very little. That's my thoughts anyway. I am learning as I go here. I may be way off base. *shrug*
     
  30. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

    Not to mention I bought the TIG welder to weld with. Might as well use it! ;)
     

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