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1950 Chevy Clutch Removal /assembly ?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Psycho Deville, Aug 3, 2007.

  1. Psycho Deville
    Joined: Nov 9, 2005
    Posts: 443

    Psycho Deville
    Member
    from RI/MA

    I threw out my clutch last night and was wondering if anyone had replaced one of these before. Stock clutch for 3speed 1949-1952 chevy.. Most likly the thorwout bearing but will be ordering the whole assembly to replace. Is there an easy way around this?

    Thanks in advance..

    J.
     
  2. black51chevy
    Joined: Jul 17, 2007
    Posts: 7

    black51chevy
    Member
    from Everett

    I think Kanter sells the throw out bearing.
     
  3. Psycho Deville
    Joined: Nov 9, 2005
    Posts: 443

    Psycho Deville
    Member
    from RI/MA


    They do .. but im just gonna order the whole assembly.. National Chevy Association, $170... worth it.... i havent taken it apart yet.. better to be safe then sorry.. But thats what im wondering is about the removal process..
     
  4. black51chevy
    Joined: Jul 17, 2007
    Posts: 7

    black51chevy
    Member
    from Everett

    I think some of the bolts are for in some tight spots. It's been about 4yrs since change out the clutch. So I don't really remember the specifics.
     

  5. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 48,236

    squirrel
    Member

  6. Psycho Deville
    Joined: Nov 9, 2005
    Posts: 443

    Psycho Deville
    Member
    from RI/MA

    Hey Squirrel, Yea i have that article.. and read it a bunch of times this morning.. but i was seeing if anyone out there has done this.. cause alot of the times when reading the manual it doesnt cover the " yea, but's :"
     
  7. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 48,236

    squirrel
    Member

    yea but it's been a long time since I worked on a closed driveline car....hopefully someone will chime in....

    As for general clutch jobs, since you plan on redoing the whole thing, be sure to remove the flywheel and get it resurfaced, and change the pilot bushing. I think if you search the hamb you might find some threads about ways to get it out of the crank. Be careful with the flywheel bolts, make sure to fully bend over the lock tabs if it has them, and get the socket fully engaged on the bolt heads, so you don't accidently round them off.
     
  8. Psycho Deville
    Joined: Nov 9, 2005
    Posts: 443

    Psycho Deville
    Member
    from RI/MA

    Damn good advice thanks man.. didnt even think about that but seeing as im going to have the whole thing out minus well...
     
  9. 53sled
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 5,818

    53sled
    Member
    from KCMO

    getting the trans out of the way is kind of a pain, but the factory gave you a big hole in the floor to make it a little easier!
     
  10. OLLIN
    Joined: Aug 25, 2006
    Posts: 3,076

    OLLIN
    Member

    Taking out the transmission is easy through that hole, but
    I remember there were like 2 bolts for the bell housing at the back of the engine towards the top that you cant get to, even with the hole in the floor board. I hate to say it but I think it might even be easier to pull the motor and just clean things up and detail it and slap it back in.
     
  11. Reverend Tex
    Joined: Jul 6, 2007
    Posts: 7

    Reverend Tex
    Member
    from Oregon

    Just did my transmission last month in my 50. Through the hole even. Yes there are a couple of bolts inside the bell housing and they were very difficult, but we got them.

    It's easier with a lift and a couple guys to help you.

    If you're planning on pulling the engine anyway for some reason; Ollin's right.

    Now, I'll check with my friend to see what he was talking about but I do remember saying that doing clutch work was going to be easy on my car when we through the new engine and all in a few months ago. He's the real mechanic, not me.
     
  12. black51chevy
    Joined: Jul 17, 2007
    Posts: 7

    black51chevy
    Member
    from Everett

    I agree with pulling the engine. When I pulled my motor I had much easier time taking off the bellhousing, then when I did it under the car the first time.
     
  13. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 48,236

    squirrel
    Member

    shouldn't need to pull the bellhousing out to change the clutch....
     
  14. dbradley
    Joined: Jan 6, 2007
    Posts: 1,036

    dbradley
    Member

    I agree with squirrel, just pull the trans out the top then drop the clutch assy out the bottom. If you want to pull the flywheel, it can drop out the bottom also.
     
  15. Reverend Tex
    Joined: Jul 6, 2007
    Posts: 7

    Reverend Tex
    Member
    from Oregon

    That's right! That is what he was telling me was gonna be "easy" (such a relative term, ain't it?) whenever I needed to do clutch work.
     
  16. Psycho Deville
    Joined: Nov 9, 2005
    Posts: 443

    Psycho Deville
    Member
    from RI/MA

    So its a toss up with pulling or not pulling.. I dont have access to a lift just a couple friends and some cold beer.. well that and all the tools i need.. yea this is one of those things that the shop manual doesnt talk about as far as the 2 bolts on top of the bell.. But Ollin is right now i have an excuse to clean everything up.. This kinda sucks cause i just slapped on the fenton split headers and just got my exhaust laid in..
     
  17. brianghd1
    Joined: Jan 10, 2015
    Posts: 7

    brianghd1
    Member
    from Mankato Mn

    I know its an older thread, but I have been doing some searching for a clutch replacement in my 53"
    Did you end up pulling to the whole motor trans?
     
  18. Older thread???? yes like nine years...Hell,those guys may not even be on the HAMB anymore..
    Make yourself a new thread,and be safe that current readers see it
     
  19. 54fierro
    Joined: Jul 6, 2006
    Posts: 493

    54fierro
    Member
    from san diego

    I did mine a couple of years ago and did it from underneath. My 54 did NOT have the access hole in the floor.
    I believe the manual said that you can undo the torque tube and pull it down, mine would not clear. I had to loosen the u-bolts to the leafs and slide it back a little.
    I think the hardest part for me was removing the clutch fork linkage.
     
  20. Guys tend to dive into jobs, without a hint of a plan.
    Read the GM Service Manual, follow it step by step, pretty much a straight forward job.
    I'm betting more folks do not have a service manual for their specific car, yet they'll get info from those who may have never done the specific job.
     
  21. , page 7-5
    No need to pull engine.
    You need to read the manual FIRST, otherwise, you'll be in for a big azz ache.
    Click below, go to section 6, page 6-105, then to section 7, page 7-5.
    http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1949_53/index.htm
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2016
  22. brianghd1
    Joined: Jan 10, 2015
    Posts: 7

    brianghd1
    Member
    from Mankato Mn

    Thanks Fellas! I appreciate the feedback. I ordered a service manual the day I brought the old girl home!
    Seems pretty straight forward. Hoping to tear into it next weekend. Anyone else have anyone have any other first hand pointers ?
     

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