Features 1949 - 1951 Mercury Parts/ Reproduction Parts List

I bought all of Mike Walser's parts. Lots of '49-'51 parts.

Will be keeping a few needed pieces, but selling the rest.

 

Definitely put up a FS thread and then link us, lots of guys looking for stuff. I'm in need of a dash of some kind, my car has the fiberglass deal.

 

http://www.body-panel.com/

Motor City Hi-Performance in the Detroit area selling 49-50 Mercury rear quarters for two doors, and 49-51 rockers for two door and four door. Also seen on ebay. I have not used them, but I found them looking for a source for rear quarters.

http://www.body-panel.com/details.asp?ID=5594
http://www.body-panel.com/details.asp?ID=5593

 

Updated.

I'm in the market for the front wing window weather seals/gaskets, any suggestions?

 

I am pretty sure Richard Carpenter has them.

 

Thanks, I'll compare them to Mercuryland.

 

Updated.

I added a section at the bottom of the first post for shops. I added Matt and Rick as the first two. Please only suggest shops that have done a ton of Mercs not just one or two.

 

I just had Tom rebuild the door hinges on my 50 Merc. Great job, service, price, and advice. He told me how the factory used to adjust the doors. Worked great. I would recommend him and use him again.

 

Can you share the door adjustment info?

 

Sent you an emai.

 

I'm subscribed! Thanks, gents!

 

Is it a secret that you can't post here for everyone?

 

Was not sure it was appropriate because this thread is a listing of suppliers. More than willing to share the info. Will take some pix today and share the text.

Thanks for asking.

 

I'm also interested in the 'door adjustment info' if ya don't mind sharin'

 

Some instructions and associated pix to adjust your Merc door hinges the way Mercury factory technicians used to do back in the day.

1. Wood Block: approx 0.750" x 5" x 5" only critical dimension is the 0.750".
2. If the door is low at the back, then you must adjust (bend) the lower door hinge.
3. Place the wood block between the "A" pillar and the lwr portion of the door.
4. Gently close the door on the block. Apply slight pressure to bend the hinge, which adjusts the door up to align with the striker on the "B" pillar.

NOTE: Apply slight pressure at the very end of the door using the outside door handle. This is trail and error, don't push hard. Check the door alignment, if necessary, do it again. Multiple slight applications of pressure and then an alignment check will produce the best results.

It does not take much to align the door by bending the hinges. If the door is high at the "B" pillar use the same technique at the upper hinge.

I found that anytime you have the door hinges rebuilt, the shop straightens the hinges to realign the hinge pins. This is why the doors don't align when using the same hinges that originally came with the car from the factory.

 

Cool, thanks

 

Link: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=685028

 

Not sure if any needs a cost effective shorter spring for their stock Merc front suspension. I came across this thread. Great tech that applies to 49--51 Mercs.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=260795

 

Good thread guys, anyone have a line on stock gauge rebuild or replacements for a 50/51

 

Having trouble removing the dash of a 1951 Merc. Any suggestions very much appreciated.

 

What kind of trouble ?

 

You have to first remove the 2 threaded bolts (one on each end of the dash) that screw into the inner metal kick side panel. Then remove the windshield garnish molding. Then remove the sheet metal screws that secure the dash to the windshield metal. Also, unscrew the speedometer cable and disconnect or remove all the E-brake cable, the vent cables and all the other little accessory cables attached to the dash. The radio can stay in, but it's heavy. Easier if you remove that first. Also, you will have to remove the steering column "U-bolt" that attaches to the bottom of the dash. It's also easier to remove the dash if you can remove the steering wheel and drop the steering column down.
The metal bracing you see in the photos WAS NOT need in order to remove the dash.

 

Cars Inc:

1949-51 Mercury Outer Rocker - Left:
http://www.carsinc.com/classic-chevy-part/314911.html

1949-51 Mercury Outer Rocker - Right:
http://www.carsinc.com/classic-chevy-part/314912.html

 

I'm adding a link to this thread, for good info on 49-51 Mercury Body Mounts, and the fasteners needed in reply #12.

1949 - 51 Mercury body mounts
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=283640

 

The metal is OK but I think they get them from the same folks that sell on flea-pay. None of the flee-pay stuff is accurate unless it is from mikestude. He hasn't been selling much over the last year or so. Most of this flea pay stuff is coated with zinc too. I'd rather it be rusty metal than zinc coated. You have to take the zinc off to get a good weld on the stuff.

The Mercury floor and trunk skins have some pretty deep V and U beads. All the repros are shallow. So much so that you have to be close to the parts to even see the beads at all. Most folks either have to round up some good parts from a salvage yard in dry desert gulch Arizona or fabricate their own rollers for a bead rolling machine and make them themselves. It takes a lot of work to lay the parts out and calculate for the shrinkage when you make stuff like that but it can be done.

It would be interesting to see if the carsinc rockers have the right compound curve to them. Mikestude rockers have the right curve on the 2-door ones but the 4-door ones he had to pinch them in several places to get it over the longer length. Other than that they look OK. The 50 dollar stuff from flea pay might as well be roofing gutters. I figure if nothing else, the carsinc ones can be used for patches to originals that aren't too rusted out. If anybody buys them LET US KNOW how they turn out.

 

Rotorwrench,
I agree, the $60 front floor sheetmetal I got from ebay has very shallow beads that looked like a single knife-edge blade made them, versus the deep factory bead in the shape of a "U".. It made it difficult to replace a piece of the floor, rather than replace the whole floor section. I had to beat the sheetmetal the old fashioned way to make a transition from the wide factory bead to the narrow, shallow bead in the replacement piece. I've never been able to find a replacement piece for under the rear seat with beads, so I had to make those with a big hammer and well placed steel to create an upper and lower die.

 

Hello H.A.M.B, I would like to install power windows in 1951 Mercury 2 door and need advice where I could find a kit for it, either online or go to the junk yard, if so which kits does everyone recommend for my Sled?

 

I dunno if Mercury Research is still around in Tennessee. They were good for 51 parts .

scrubba

 

Vlopez22, I used power window kits for my 51 Merc from thses guys.
http://www.nu-relics.com/

 

Thank you Fordy, which one do you recommend for my 51'Merc and thinking of adding power windows to the back side small windows, what do you think?