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1948 Plymouth coupe looking for chassis ideas.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by youreviltwin, Jun 9, 2010.

  1. missysdad1
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 3,022

    missysdad1
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Anybody here actually watch Bloodyknuckles video? Absobleedin'lootly awesome! Certainly has my respect! Nice work, Bloodyknuckles!
     
  2. James Curl
    Joined: Mar 28, 2006
    Posts: 370

    James Curl
    Member

    Well I guess you could just go ahead and bit the bullet and order an Art Morrison chassi or one of the other custom chassi makers frames to fit under your Plymouth. I do not know when Cameros became sport cars as heavy as they are, SCCA has a class for almost every car ever built but does that make them a sports car? Like NASCAR is stock car racing? The only thing stock in NASCAR is the cars name. I have a 48 Plymouth with a 90 Dakota 3.55:1 rear end and disc brakes on the front with a much modified flat head six. Am getting ready to add dropped uprights and a shock relocation kit, a T-5 and a dual master cylinder. It will never be a sports car, but a good highway cruiser. I have driven the car on a 4600 mile round trip from central Texas to Cal, Bonneville and back with out any problems, but it is not a sports car and never will be even if I installed an Art Morrison frame. To call it a hot rod is an over statement, when I was young, I was once, the older 22 to 25 married men, most WWII veterans drove modified family cars much as mine because that was the only car that they owned and it had to take them to work on Monday. In the early 50's everyone used to flat tow their drag car if they a separate drag car behind the family car, no trailers or semis back then. If you used the family car you sure hoped nothing happened or you might not get home, no roll back trucks back then to haul you home. When you figure out what you want your 48 to be and do it I hope that you are very pleased and happy with the results, keep us posted on your progress so we can follow along with your build. If you care to look at www.hotrodders.com, for an article titled 37-57 Buick, Olds and Pontiac front suspension up grades using late model upper A arms and spindles with an adapter for ball joint in the lower A frame, gets you modern suspension geometry, disc brakes and newer parts, only 20 years old, still better than a Mustang II front suspension. The frames and front suspension on these cars are very similar to the 48 Plymouths and will also work on them as well.
     
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2010
  3. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,906

    need louvers ?
    Member

    Did look like a bunch of fun!! The original poster mentioned something about a formula for figuring speed for given ratios. Easy peasy! Here it is - MPH x trans ratio x final drive ratio x 336, Divided by tire height. So for my car it is as follows - 75mph x .68 fifth gear x 3.23 x 336 = 55349.28. we'll divide that by tire height 26.6" which equals 2080rpm. Not to tough. And once you commit it to memory, quite handy in certain situations. Oh, accurate too!
     
  4. youreviltwin
    Joined: Oct 21, 2008
    Posts: 69

    youreviltwin
    Member
    from fl

    awesome guys! thanks for leading me in the right direction. thiis is exactly the info i need. im not rushing into it i plan to get it in the works by oct. first things first get the body off the chassis and go from there. i"ll take it slow and steady. once again thanks everyone for the links, avice, and options.


    twin
     
  5. missysdad1
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 3,022

    missysdad1
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    If you are going to make any chassis mods, you'll want to leave the body on until they have been completed.

    The body provides points of reference to stance, fits and clearances. It also supports the frame as the mods are being made.

    Here's an idea: Before you turn the first nut on your car, visit as many well-established hot rod shops in your area as possible and get an idea of how they build cars.

    You won't be able to duplicate all of their techniques, but they should be able to help you understand the basics of the process and guide you away from the most common mistakes made by home builders.

    Just a thought...

    :)
     
  6. youreviltwin
    Joined: Oct 21, 2008
    Posts: 69

    youreviltwin
    Member
    from fl

    thanks missysdad and to the rest of you guys. ive been looking around to find some more info on this. im just curious to know if anyone knows the bolt pattern for the disk brake kits they make for the front end.
     
  7. 50dodge4x4
    Joined: Aug 7, 2004
    Posts: 3,535

    50dodge4x4
    Member

    You can get the disc brake conversion in either 5 on 4 1/2" bolt pattern, or a 5 on 4 3/4" bolt pattern. Depends on which bolt pattern you want as to which kit you buy. Pretty much, pick your bolt pattern, get the kit with the right pattern rotors. Gene
     
  8. hkestes
    Joined: May 19, 2007
    Posts: 570

    hkestes
    Member

    Olddaddy's kit uses the Volare/Aspen rotors so it is the same bolt pattern as your stock 47 Plymouth.
     
  9. youreviltwin
    Joined: Oct 21, 2008
    Posts: 69

    youreviltwin
    Member
    from fl

    nice id like to use 5x 4.75 casue ive got a diff for it and ive got two sets of wheels for it
     
  10. youreviltwin
    Joined: Oct 21, 2008
    Posts: 69

    youreviltwin
    Member
    from fl


    do you know where i can find the 5x4.75 kit?
     
  11. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,906

    need louvers ?
    Member

    I'm not aware of any body that makes a 5 x 4.75 kit out there now. There was one years ago that I believe ECI made with an aluminum hub drilled for both. It used C4 Corvette rotors and calipers, so I imagine that stopping would be very good. P.S. If you want to see my car in it's glory doing a stupid burnout up a major street in phoenix, Do a search for Rattlers/ Premier frame and body 4th of July BBQ. A friend of mine from Sweden just posted it on that thread the other day. Just click on the only picture on that thread and it'll go.
     
  12. youreviltwin
    Joined: Oct 21, 2008
    Posts: 69

    youreviltwin
    Member
    from fl

    nice... you see i wouldnt mind something like that. c4 brakes would be great for me. i wish there was a way to find a 5x4.75 bolt pattern where id be able to use that brake set up and that would also let me try to use a diff i have with that bolt pattern and the 2 sets of wheels i have for it.

    looks great that video really made me want to get to work on this asap.

    [​IMG]
     
  13. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,906

    need louvers ?
    Member

    Hoped that would help!
     
  14. youreviltwin
    Joined: Oct 21, 2008
    Posts: 69

    youreviltwin
    Member
    from fl

    indeed! i wish i could find more build threads, videos, and finished pictures of some. mine is in pieces so its nice to see complete ones ripping up the street up.
     
  15. youreviltwin
    Joined: Oct 21, 2008
    Posts: 69

    youreviltwin
    Member
    from fl

    oh and i forgot to post pics of my scrap metal i hope to form into a car someday.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  16. youreviltwin
    Joined: Oct 21, 2008
    Posts: 69

    youreviltwin
    Member
    from fl

  17. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,906

    need louvers ?
    Member

    Yours looks a bit better than what I started with! Do take an afternoon though and assemble the front clip with the inner fender panels and stuff a.s.a.p. The reason I say that is two fold - The fenders for these cars do not store well - they have a tendency to kinda' stretch out and fit weird. Best to get them shored up and secure now. The other is that these front clips are made up of a bunch of little parts that all fit together to make a completed unit. I f your missing this and that, now is the time to find out rather than when your trying to get the car completed for your first big show or cruise night. That will give you time to find what your missing.
     
  18. Just going to throw this out there because no one else has mentioned it.

    85 and back Jaguar XJ sedans have a front suspension that unbolts off the car. Disc brakes, rack & pinion, Chevy 5x4.75 bolt pattern wheels, narrower than a Camaro, wider than an S10, has been used under 49-54 Chevy cars and trucks successfully in the past. Usually you can buy a clapped out Jag pretty cheap, take what you want, part out some of the rest and scrap it and not be out too much money. They have nice leather seats in them too.

    All the parts to rebuild are priced reasonable at your parts houses, the only big expense is if you want to put a rebuilt rack on it, I think someone posted here they were around $200 or so. You don't have to cut your stock frame up to put it on, although with the Plymouth the front crossmember might have to be cut out (the Chevys they unbolt also, making it relatively simple to swap).

    And with the suspension out of that you stand a chance of getting that BMW handling you were after.
     
  19. youreviltwin
    Joined: Oct 21, 2008
    Posts: 69

    youreviltwin
    Member
    from fl

    yea i already know im missing alot of stuff but i do have the the fenders and hood and some other stuff. thats a great idea. i think that will be the first thing i do and i totally ee what you are saying about them spreading out casue when i was moving them around i saw how flimsy they were. the thing is i have no ida how to put this stuff all together and or if im missing something and what im missing so that will be.

    im going to guess i should first get me a service manual that will show me the parts i need and next would be to find some hardware for it. i dont know if they have it or not but it would be cool if someone sold like a front end hardware kit so i wouldnt have to source the bolts one at a time.

    third would be to start piecing it together and sourcing the pieces i am missing.


    thanks


    ive got a whole different outlook on the build that i originally had when i started this thread but that is coming with all the knowledge you guys are sharing with me.


    thanks again. i hope you guys dont mind i have been searching some of you guys topics you have started trying to absorb as much as i can.
     
    Last edited: Jul 2, 2010
  20. youreviltwin
    Joined: Oct 21, 2008
    Posts: 69

    youreviltwin
    Member
    from fl

    yea that sounds interesting to look into. if you know where i can find some links that shows more of one of those swaps if even its in a chevy i'd be able to get a better visualization of what it may entail.

    i guess where im at right now im trying to find something that is better than but still not a massive project. im kind of comng closer to the idea of getting it running first and then if anything once i have had more experience with the car i can start to really get a better idea of the kind of modifications that are fesable and what is more on the extreme side.

    even though i would love to see something like what you mentioned and just absorb more different possible options to then find the one that better suits me.

    thanks for the input.
     
  21. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,906

    need louvers ?
    Member

    Don't be afraid to P.M. me if you have any questions,I'm happy to help.
     
  22. youreviltwin
    Joined: Oct 21, 2008
    Posts: 69

    youreviltwin
    Member
    from fl


    great man thats real nice of you. i'll take you up on the offer. :THUMBSUP:
     
  23. Faucet
    Joined: Apr 19, 2010
    Posts: 28

    Faucet
    Member
    from Atlanta

    Just curious if you had done a search on the disc brake kits. I can't think of the name of it but there is a gentleman who makes kits for the old Mopar's that I spoke with who said he could make his kit work for a larger rotor and caliper set-up. I believe he was in Oregon.

    I have a '48 Dodge Custom Sedan and have a lot of the same ideas you do. here's my list of intended mod's

    Suspension: I'm air bagging it, and putting in the dropped uprights up front and some form of a 4 link rear with a mild frame notch. moving the shock mounting points

    Brakes: I have a disc brake kit I picked up for the front, replacing the rear with a newer rear end w/ discs.

    If you insist on a frame stub, Fatman makes one for the plymouth/dodge. Mustang II setup that has the proper dimensions for the frame.
     
  24. Frankie47
    Joined: Dec 20, 2008
    Posts: 1,877

    Frankie47
    Member
    from omaha ne.

    What you have is a very narrow car that fits next to nothing, a dakota front end is good or just get the shock realignment/ replacement kit from oldaddy along with his disc up grade..it's good stuff, chevy..ack.
     
  25. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,906

    need louvers ?
    Member

    Frankie 47 I don't normally counter peoples posts, but I have to on this one. The Dakota is too wide for these cars. It's also a truck front end, so the roll center is artificially low to compensate for the lighter rear weight of a medium sized truck. I speak from a lot of knowledge of the Dakota - I in some ways helped create the very successful kits to put these front ends under damn near every fifties truck out there. They work great under a '55 ford truck, or a '57 Chevy truck, but for this car, to drop it and end up with BMW like handling, which is what this thread is about, forget it.
     
  26. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 6,598

    73RR
    Member

    AAJ Brakes http://www.aajbrakes.bravepages.com/


    .
     
  27. Kreepea_1
    Joined: Sep 17, 2007
    Posts: 451

    Kreepea_1
    Member

    What type of after wheels? What is the off set? I have a car with a '77 TA clip that needs the wheels tucked.
     
  28. farmer12
    Joined: Aug 28, 2006
    Posts: 7,717

    farmer12
    Member

    Looks like you're getting all the information required here. Take it step by step, ask questions as you go. You know what you want. I just wouldn't be too concerned about outracing your bmw buddies. Concentrating on a proper build is far more important, using the knowledge of the guys here and at your local hot rod shop. There will always be people for/against bags, certain engines, frame mods etc. Seek info, think about it and start building. I'm also a first timer and have gained experience as I go. Nothing to be ashamed about, considering everyone has to start somewhere. Do it systematically and start building. Go for it! Good luck.
     
  29. youreviltwin
    Joined: Oct 21, 2008
    Posts: 69

    youreviltwin
    Member
    from fl

    thanks guy i appreciate all the support
     
  30. Pre-game
    Joined: May 11, 2010
    Posts: 23

    Pre-game
    Member

    any progress on this? i recently got a plym myself and am looking to do some handling things like disc swap and for cool factor only am looking to bag and channel the car, low is the way to go! what part of FL are you from?
     

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