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1948 Ford F4 build thread

Discussion in 'The Antiquated' started by Hivolt5.0, Nov 8, 2011.

  1. HOTFR8
    Joined: Nov 30, 2010
    Posts: 2,082

    HOTFR8
    Member

    You are lucky to find good 1/4 vent windows as mine had become so rusty and we could not find any others to use. I had no choice but to make new ones from brass and paint them.

    As for the badges well you may have to look at some of the supply places in the US. I got some parts from LMC truck.
     
  2. alaska 53
    Joined: Sep 3, 2012
    Posts: 68

    alaska 53
    Member

    Great thread I have a f3/p35. Look forward to more.


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  3. Wow, I envy guys like you who can just "make stuff". The 1/4 windows I have aren't perfect, but they work and should restore nicely.

    Yeah, I've bought several items from LMC. I especiallly like their exploded views of assemblies. That has helped me many times as I tried to figure out what parts I was missing and how the truck went together.
     
  4. Thanks Alaska 53! Post up a pic of your F3, I'd like to see it.
     
  5. HOTFR8
    Joined: Nov 30, 2010
    Posts: 2,082

    HOTFR8
    Member

    :eek: I had to find some one to make them for me. :eek:

    Yes they do have some good parts.
     
  6. alaska 53
    Joined: Sep 3, 2012
    Posts: 68

    alaska 53
    Member

    It's a step van carrys a P35 vin #. I just love the big F series fords. ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1390520403.957502.jpg


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  7. OahuEli
    Joined: Dec 27, 2008
    Posts: 5,038

    OahuEli
    Member
    from Hawaii

    God those things are ugly! I love 'em!:D
     
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  8. It's time, time for brake lines!!
    - NiCopp brake line? Check
    - tubing bender? Check
    - brake line tool? Check
    - tubing cutter? Check
    - Rigid flaring tool? Check
    - homemade tubing straightener? Check

    Now let the fun begin!

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1390535488.705125.jpg

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1390535528.452619.jpg


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  9. LOL!! I agree Eli, that P35 is strange but oh so cool!!


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  10. So where did you find this truck and what are you going to do with it? I've never seen one before. Thank you for posting a pic of it.


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  11. alaska 53
    Joined: Sep 3, 2012
    Posts: 68

    alaska 53
    Member

    Yep they are odd but pretty cool. No ideas yet which way I will build it. Most likely lowered keep it stock other then that. Hard to find parts.


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  12. alaska 53
    Joined: Sep 3, 2012
    Posts: 68

    alaska 53
    Member

    It once belong to the FAA government ordered. I am the 3 rd owner it has 16k miles on it from what I can tell from wear on stuff and paper work that's original mileage.
    I have yet seen another one. No real ideas yet on the build yet.


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  13. alaska 53
    Joined: Sep 3, 2012
    Posts: 68

    alaska 53
    Member

    I had read that semi trucks are using single rear super duals. I think that is what they call them. Has anyone seen them used on big F series trucks.


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  14. I've seen those bigger rear wheels you're talking about but I'm not sure what they're called. I've never seen them on one of these classic F series trucks either. The biggest problem may be finding a rim to use that would match the bolt pattern of the original axle. It would interesting though.


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  15. HOTFR8
    Joined: Nov 30, 2010
    Posts: 2,082

    HOTFR8
    Member

    Called Super Singles here as they replace the dual rear wheels mostly on semi trailers and some times on trucks. Never seen them on an F Series other than the newer type 4x4's. Some 4x4 type Hino's use them here. I would not consider them on an older classic type truck as they would not look right. In many applications (Hino) I have found them to be custom made for off road sand use.
     
  16. alaska 53
    Joined: Sep 3, 2012
    Posts: 68

    alaska 53
    Member

    Would get real expense real fast.
    I like look of duals but lowering my van might be tough with duals. Not sure if it makes a different or not.


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  17. I've seen newer duallys lowered Alaska so lowering your truck is doable. I think it'd look. I do have a question for you, from the picture you posted it looks like the front and rear rims are completely different; different bolt pattern, different style. Is this true or is it just an illusion?
     
  18. alaska 53
    Joined: Sep 3, 2012
    Posts: 68

    alaska 53
    Member

    Front 8 lug rear 6 lug same tire size 17.5. That is another concern I have.
    At some point I believe the wheels were changed and the widow makers might have been changed.I have no real history on vehicle other then the logo on front fenders FAA and what people told me in the town I bought it.


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  19. HOTFR8
    Joined: Nov 30, 2010
    Posts: 2,082

    HOTFR8
    Member

    Yes, expensive and more of a bling look for some with different profile tyres (tires) and I should ad perhaps not traditional for this forum.
     
  20. alaska 53
    Joined: Sep 3, 2012
    Posts: 68

    alaska 53
    Member

    I am sorry not Traditional for this form?
     
  21. I have question on brake lines. The new master cylinder for this truck is from a '70s Chevy big truck and it has a 1 1/4 bore just like the original single chamber master cylinder. The factory brake line size is 1/4". I have some 10 lb residual valves and I have a willwood proportining valve as well.

    Here are my issues. The input/output of both the residual valves and the proportioning valve are 3/16. The master has one outlet that is 9/16 (goes to the small bowl) and one outlet that is 1/2 (goes to the larger bowl).

    Here is my question, would it be ok to have a mixture of 3/16 and 1/4 brake lines?

    My thought is to come out of the master cylinder and convert to 3/16 line - go through the residual valves - and then into the proportioning valve. From the proportioning valve I would convert to 1/4 line and run that to the wheel cylinders.

    Or should I just run 3/16 line all the way to the wheel cylinders and then convert to 1/4?

    I would imagine a 1 ton truck would need lots of fluid volumn and of course I want it to be safe.

    Your thoughts?
     
  22. OahuEli
    Joined: Dec 27, 2008
    Posts: 5,038

    OahuEli
    Member
    from Hawaii

    What size are the fittings in the residual valves and proportioning valve? You want to go from big to small. Since 3/16" is smaller than 1/4" the volume wouldn't be there. My thought is that it might be a good idea to feed the proportioning valve as big as possible, then the residual valves likewise downstream. 1/4" should be fine for the individual front lines, maybe run 3/8" to the rear tee and go 1/4" after that to the individual wheel cylinders. I've never used residuals so I may be slightly off the mark, just applied basic physics ( about all I can handle) :D
     
  23. BrerHair
    Joined: Jan 30, 2007
    Posts: 4,446

    BrerHair
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Good luck David, hope you get the hang of it better than me, have really struggled with learning how to double flare stainless. Maybe the NiCu is easier.
     
  24. gold03
    Joined: Oct 11, 2009
    Posts: 84

    gold03
    Member

    Nice build. Great thread. Thanks for posting.

    I'm about to start building my steering, followed next by brakes. Your thread has great information on both.
     
  25. xtremek
    Joined: May 1, 2011
    Posts: 73

    xtremek
    Member

    Use 3/16" for all of the lines. If you don't, you might end up having a hard time getting a hard pedal or having a long pedal travel. I'm talking from experience, really bad experience. In the case of brakes, volume in the lines is your enemy. I'm guessing the reason for the difference is port size is for error proofing at the factory.
     
  26. I know what you mean BrerHair, double flaring tubing is an art form and I'm still learning. I recently bought the Rigid flaring tool and it is SOOO much better than the part store flaring tool I was using. I wish I could afford one of those really nice flaring tools but that isn't in the cards.

    As for stainless, I've never tried that but I've read that you can't double flare stainless, you have to use the single 37 degree flare instead of the double 45 degree flare.
     
  27. Thanks gold03. If there's anyway I can help you out on your build I'd love to do so. I can at least share from my mistakes. :eek:
     
  28. You're the second person who's recommended using 3/16 lines throughout. My only question is the flex lines running to the front brakes and the one going to the rear axle. Running 3/16 to the front and adapting to the 1/4 flex lines shouldn't be a hugh deal. But what about the rear? I would run 3/16 to the rear flex line but would have to adapt up to it. Then what do I do from the T junction on the rear axle? Do I stay at 1/4 to each rear wheel or do I adapt down to 3/16 line and then back up to 1/4 going into the wheel cylinders?
     
  29. xtremek
    Joined: May 1, 2011
    Posts: 73

    xtremek
    Member

    Use 3/16" along the rear axle as well with adapters. I built a car with 1/4" lines and the pedal wouldn't make enough pressure to lock the wheels up when doing an intentional panic stop. Changed to 3/16", and stopped it stopped on a dime. As for using stainless, the few times I helped someone do it, they used a single flare with an anodized fitting that slid over the line and seated up to the flare. I'm guessing it was some kind of compression fitting.
     
  30. Thank you xtremek! I sure appreciate the advice. The last thing I want to do is have to run these lines twice and I want this truck to be safe.
     

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