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Projects 1948 Chevrolet fleetmaster

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by gallogiro, Jun 9, 2013.

  1. gallogiro
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 911

    gallogiro
    Member

    Finally finishing up my other projects and finishing up my fleetmaster. had it for about 4 years but when I got my other cars I always threw this one in the back and left it for last. finally getting around to finishing it and its very close now. bought it back 4 years ago, went to Pomona looking for parts for my 65 one sunday to look for the rocker panels for my 65 impala. only had that car at the time. wasn't looking for another car but saw this one for only $2600. thought hey i have that to play with so i called the number on the tag but the guy never answered
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    so i said fuck it and kept on walking. then i saw this one, only $800 and was like fuck yea ill take it for that
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    so i called my dad to bring me a trailer. when i was walking out to the gate to meet up with him, saw this one for $4500
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    when i saw that one i thought no, i want a fat fender bomb like that one but not that one itself it was in bad shape. so i went home and bought an auto trader and found this one the one i bought
    these are pictures I took when I first went to go see it after I saw it in auto trader. got it for $4800 cash
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    here it is when i got it home
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    Last edited: Jun 9, 2013
  2. gallogiro
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 911

    gallogiro
    Member

    [​IMG]
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    got it a visor, was the first accessory i got for it from Pomona
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    after i started tearing down the interior it was original so looked like shit
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  3. gallogiro
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 911

    gallogiro
    Member

  4. gallogiro
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 911

    gallogiro
    Member


  5. gallogiro
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 911

    gallogiro
    Member

  6. pasadenahotrod
    Joined: Feb 13, 2007
    Posts: 11,776

    pasadenahotrod
    Member
    from Texas

    That's a much better deal than those two dogs at the swap meet.
     
    mismoloko likes this.
  7. gallogiro
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 911

    gallogiro
    Member

    the trunk, its the back panel. used the stars off this
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    and the hood emblem for 48
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    and came up with the back panel for the trunk
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    now that the interior is out, floorwork. this is from home depot, same stuff i used on my 59. you get it at lowes, works like dynamat for heat and sound but also works perfect to seal any pinholes in the metal
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  8. gallogiro
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 911

    gallogiro
    Member

    yea, ooo I would have been in over my head and made a big mistake. thank god I didn't pick those up I would have been building it just to get it to average project status
     
  9. gallogiro
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 911

    gallogiro
    Member

  10. gallogiro
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 911

    gallogiro
    Member

    now rewire. car had original 6 volt cloth wire, no good if you run a 12 volt battery it will catch fire. so put new fuse box and wiring
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    cut out the wheel well it was bad but they sell replacement tub cheap. the rest of the trunk was perfect, metal was like new. right now as it sits its the red primer and rust sealer. the only reason there is a plywood there is to keep the overspray from going into the inside of the car
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  11. gallogiro
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 911

    gallogiro
    Member

    now pull the motor and rip the front end off to get all the shit that's hiding in between the fenders and cowl then take down the car to original paint. turns out it was tan and gray, then green, then the original color the maroon red metallic
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    cleaned up the frame
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  12. gallogiro
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 911

    gallogiro
    Member

    now we start on the doors. sand, block then primer. metal is really really good on this car, i scored
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    this area is usually rusted, but I got lucky the metal is good on it
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    very little bondo, just skim coats
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  13. gallogiro
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 911

    gallogiro
    Member

    [​IMG]
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    again little bondo, thin coats not one huge layer I sculpted
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  14. gallogiro
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 911

    gallogiro
    Member

    [​IMG]
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    where it looks blotchy is because I sprayed the primer extra thick to seal up some sanding scratches
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    new carpet
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  15. gallogiro
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 911

    gallogiro
    Member

  16. gallogiro
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 911

    gallogiro
    Member

  17. gallogiro
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 911

    gallogiro
    Member

    moved it out and over to start putting it together on sunday
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  18. raidmagic
    Joined: Dec 10, 2007
    Posts: 1,438

    raidmagic
    Member

    Wow, nice work. Tell me more about what you are using in place of dynamat? How does it compare cost wise to dynamat? How about insulation wise?
     
  19. gallogiro
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 911

    gallogiro
    Member

    mocked up the visor today before I sand it and block it and respray the primer on it
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  20. gallogiro
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 911

    gallogiro
    Member

    thank you. its called peel and seal, only sold in lowes (out here) and 2 rolls, enough to do a whole car is only 14 bucks a roll. is same properties as dynamat, the aluminum top and tarry sealing layer. works excellent for heat and noise reduction. it is really intended for patching your home roof when you have water leaks (tar that makes it stick) and repelling sun heat (aluminum face on top). so imagine how good it is to seal pin holes even large ones and keeping road, engine and exhaust heat out as well as road and engine noise. I use it on all my builds, compared to dynamat its thicker and more permanent and im very happy with it. whether you have it painted or bare metal, make sure its clean because if theres dirt, dust and grime on the metal itll make a film on the tar and wont stick

    http://www.lowes.com/pd_154017-8132...Search=peel+and+seal&productId=1018733&rpp=32
     
  21. gallogiro
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 911

    gallogiro
    Member

    fenders blocked and ready to primer
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    hood was bad, and the nose was bent bad I think they used it as a step to get on the roof at some point. I thought I needed a new hood. was also worried about all the rust
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    turns out it was just surface rust and was actually pretty straight

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  22. gallogiro
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 911

    gallogiro
    Member

    polished this off finally, going to get the new plastic for it
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    was told by 2 different guys I was going to need a new hood. few hours banging it out with body hammers, is fine now
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    popped out the old rivets and used new bolts and nuts to hold it together
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    now prepping to primer all the pieces and put the car together early next week
     
  23. gallogiro
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 911

    gallogiro
    Member

    now these go on the inside of the fenders. one of them you cant even see because they go inside the door caps
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    cleaned them up and painting them tomorrow, want this car as rust free as possible
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    pieces are ready for paint tomorrow
     
  24. gallogiro
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 911

    gallogiro
    Member

    nose job
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    I know, bondo is bad. but its only skin coats, the metal is very thick on these old cars and are hard to get completely straight. if you look its only on small spots not one huge coat over the whole thing so its not that bad. blocked it out, realized, im done with body work :-o off to the side, everything ready for primering and finally put together
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    a week from now ill have 3 complete put together cars and the 48 will be ready to drop the motor in
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    I work tomorrow, and Saturday im going out so ill get on it sunday ill get the bottom done and paint it
     
  25. gallogiro
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 911

    gallogiro
    Member

    was HOT today. had to get this out again
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  26. gallogiro
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 911

    gallogiro
    Member

    got this old firestone service hat that im going to throw in the car just for a more antique feel
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  27. gallogiro
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 911

    gallogiro
    Member

    so I decided im going flat. but good paint flat that will last years not shitty paint that will flake and get ashy or dull

    BLACK AND DARK TAN
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  28. gallogiro
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 911

    gallogiro
    Member

    got home at 5am, woken up at 8am, I had a delivery. a complete running and ready to fire up chevy 216 motor for my 48. I do the brakes Monday, paint it tues/wed/thurs and drop it in next Saturday and hook it up and by sunday ill be driving it =D thanks for the help jose and the early morning wake up call, I owe you one
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    its already nice but im going to clean it up and make it really pretty
     
  29. gallogiro
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 911

    gallogiro
    Member

    this is what the top end on my new motor looks like
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    and this is what the old motor looked like, like I said only 2 or 3 sockets tears this whole motor apart. the old motor had some kind of baffle or filter pad
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    im going to have a good set of heads, block, water pump, fuel pump, generator and coil for sale if anyone needs something off it
    only other thing youd need is a cherry picker if your motor was out. what im showing is a home build not a shop build. the flat paint is in transit I get it Wednesday.
    ran into a problem today. the motor I bought if off a truck, casting number 383574
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    which is correct for 52 chevy 216. but again its off a truck so I have to take the motor mount plate off my old motor that has the dual motor mounts on the sides
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    to replace the truck one that has the motor mount in the center
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    so I guess I have to take off the timing chain cover and everything there to swap out the plate. pain in the ass but have to do it.
    second problem. the motor I bought had a bell housing for a 53 truck. so the transmission I have doesn't line up on the mounting bolts. heres mine
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    and heres the one I have on the new motor, casting number 3835201
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    the bolts are wider and farther, and has some lever on the side that my old one doesn't have
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    so it looks like I have some work to do tomorrow. the guy I got the motor from had the tranny that fits this motor for 200, does anyone know what tranny that is that goes in that bell housing? is It better and will it line up to my linkages and mounts? asking to see if I should swap it or just use that one. he paid to get the whole internal bell housing redone but will it take MY bell housing? mine is og 216 3 on tree for 48 chevy car
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    im just glad the motor itself is a 216 and the internals and side components are good and ready to go, its just the front and rear I have to work on but the motor itself is good
     
  30. gallogiro
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 911

    gallogiro
    Member

    ok so now im not worried about the front motor mounts I can just drill out new holes, but am missing the rear mounts. well one of them. I have the one for one side
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    but missing the other side that mounts with the starter
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    and now, the bell housing. have problems again. to take the bell housing off theres two bolts on the top, and 4 bolts on the inside behind the flywheel. well my old motor is seized. wont turn. I thought I was turning it but it was just the fan and water pump. I left the motor out the car a few months when it rained and the cover came off and got water into the cylinders. well its seized now. I have a new motor so I don't care, but now I cant get the motor to turn so I can get to the last 2 bolts holding on the clutch to the flywheel. and if the clutch cant come off, the flywheel cant come off, so the bell housing cant come off. and its too tight to get a wrench or socket in there
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    I sprayed this in all the holes, let it sit overnight. but don't think its going to work its too stiff
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    anyone know what I can do?
    and my other issue, doesn't seem as big but I cant get the bolts off the flywheel on the new motor I have. theyre tight! and when I try to ratchet them out the motor turns as well so I cant get them to come off
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    I got frustrated so im done for the day. ill get back in it tomorrow. more worried about how im getting the bell housing off the old motor I feel I might have to take a torch to it or try to cut out the middle of the clutch
     

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