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Technical 1947 dodge engine issues

Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by Louie dukes dallas, Oct 23, 2016.

  1. Hello im stuck and im almost giving up ...im in dallas tx and i got a 1947 dodge deluxe long story short i blew my engine ..so i bought another and rebuilt it only thing is my bearings keep goin out i put standard but im thinking i might need a little bigger size ..the car starts up good but as soon as i go in freeway number 6 and 3 go out any help would be great thanks
     
  2. that's a little hard to follow , they way i read it you rebuilt a motor with standard size bearings and you now think you need a different size....is that correct?

    and you didn't measure your crankshaft accurately before selecting the bearings ?
     
    Louie dukes dallas likes this.
  3. Yes thats what i meant and no didnt measure this is my first time ever rebuilding a flathead since i couldnt find no one that does flatheads around here ..i just had to do it i have the book and did it to the best i could ...how would i mesure crank
     
  4. with a micrometer
     
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  5. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,217

    F&J
    Member

    You need to borrow a micrometer. Then measure each journal all the way around, because the journals are probably egg shaped, no longer round.

    and " highway"...these cars were not meant to be run at todays speeds on highway, unless you get an overdrive, or better gears in the rear end

    .
     
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  6. Flat Six Fix
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 987

    Flat Six Fix
    Member

    A healthy Chrysler flathead 6 cylinder engine, can cruise on a highway at 3000 rpm all day long, unlike the other 2 big manufacturers of the day, this engine had a steel crank and balanced well, bearing inserts ( not babbit poured) full oil pressure to engine, not dipper splash, aluminum alloy pistons, water distribution tube, hardened valve seats.
    This car, had IFS, and they handle and ride well, if all in good shape, Lockheeed dual wheel cyl front brakes, very good again in good condition and adjusted correctly.
    No wonder they were used in equipment well into the 70s.
    If this car has 3.73 gears, or even 3.90s, 60-65 mph all day long, maybe not 70-75 mph, withut an R10 overdrive.
    Go here for a lot of specific info on your car and this engine.....
    My 55 Fargo truck and souped up flathead 6, my old 47 Chrysler Coupe

    www.p15-d24.com
     

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    Last edited: Oct 23, 2016
  7. Glenn Thoreson
    Joined: Aug 13, 2010
    Posts: 78

    Glenn Thoreson
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    These engines had a problem with the no. 3 rod bearing. It has to do with the way the oil is distributed. No. 6 ? I don't know but I would recommend making sure the oil passages are clean and unobstructed. You need to check the crank journals with a micrometer and check your bearing clearances with Plastigage when assembling. Look on the back of the old bearing shells to see what size was in it before you started. They will be marked if they are undersize, i.e. .010, .020, etc. Standard bearings are not usually marked. Crank must be smooth with no taper and round within .oo1". These were good reliable engines but didn't stand up well to sustained high RPMs.
     
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  8. hitek
    Joined: Dec 30, 2012
    Posts: 41

    hitek
    Member

    Well I hate to get into a fight here, but where in the world did you get the idea that there was a problem with number 3 rod bearing or that these engines didn't stand up to high RPMs? Are you talking the fords with Babbitt bearings and cast cranks maybe? Glenn I cant disagree with making sure oil passages are clean and unobstructed as the biggest single issue for all of the older engines, no matter of the breed was the quality of oil.

    But to suggest there was a design flaw with oiling of rod #3 in a mopar or that cant stand up to high RPM, that just isn't correct, it really isn't.

    I would be happy to show you many vehicles with flathead mopars that spin well north of 5000 rpm and have what would be considered to be substantial miles on them and I own two vehicles, 1 with a flathead Chrysler in a dragster that spins over 7200 rpm and 1 in my 1949 Plymouth that spins north of 6000 pm and there are no modifications and in literally dozens and dozens of Mopar rebuilds from rebuilding to stock specs to performance builds I have never seen evidence of a #3 rod issue or and I know you didn't say this, but I hear this all the time as well, of a weak crank.

    Louie - in 1947 your flathead mopar engine had a steel crank, balanced at the factory with bearing inserts as you
    have discovered. The fact is Mopar had steel cranks balanced long before yours was made when Ford and GM were casting cranks an using Babbitt for bearings. Others have already touched on this including Glenn and that is you need to start with having the crank checked with a micrometer, but if you have spun and that is what I am guessing you mean by they went out, #3 and #6 you need to get the crank machined. If its too far under when prepared you could have it spray welded and reground to standard.

    My first thought when I read your post, and this is a bit of a guess is that someone worked on the crank and did not have all of the journals machined to the same specs. If that is the case its never ideal. I don't have any good recommendations of machine shops in Dallas although I am sure there are others can, but if you like I would be happy to give you a call and talk over your problem.

    Tim
     
  9. Goodmorning guys well lots of good information ...and yes i run my car 60 65 on hiway or else it will scream rear end needs to be changed ...anyways ima mic. The crank and go from there ....i love the mopar and the flatheads peaple love seeing them still on cars just getting frustrating this is the only issue i got with it ..and hitek that would be great any help greatly appreciated...
     
  10. Louie..There are several good machine shops in the Dallas area...City Motors is out on Harry Hines just at 635,,Tinkers Machine is out on Irving Blvd..check your phone book
     
    Louie dukes dallas likes this.
  11. Trust me i have ...city motors dont mess with flatheads no more and tinkers i will check thank you ....
     
  12. Nice i would love to do that to my motor dual carbs ....
     
  13. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 6,243

    BJR
    Member

    Is it possible you put a bearing in backwards so the oil holes do not line up. I did this on a straight 8 once. I put one main bearing in wrong and it cut off the oil to 2 rod bearings.
     
  14. Flat Six Fix
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 987

    Flat Six Fix
    Member

    George Asche, Chrysler flathead 6 guru, rebuilds engines, manufactures dual and tri carb intakes, split exhaust manifolds, rebuilds carbs, and builds R7 and R10 B&W overdrive transmissions. Message Hitek, for further info and prices.
    Terrell Machine in Deleon Texas for flathead Mopar engine parts and machine service too...Good Luck, nice car, swamp cooler and all the Doo Dads
     
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2016
    Louie dukes dallas likes this.
  15. I believe that Flat six means the Terrell mach in Deleon,Texas
     
  16. Flat Six Fix
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 987

    Flat Six Fix
    Member

    Whoops silly ole me, just go up from night shifts...
     
  17. How can that be possible it has those groves that bearings lay in but ill check that today
     
  18. RichFox
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 9,890

    RichFox
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    If you have the inserts you took out. They usually have the undersize stamped into the back. Like .010 for ten thousands undersize and so on. Don't know about old MoPars but on a GMC six the rear main was only drilled on one insert. That one went into the block. Put the one for the cap in the block=no oil to that rod and main.
     
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  19. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 6,243

    BJR
    Member

    I think I put the top in the bottom and the bottom half in the top. Or I had the front facing the back and the oil hole was not in the center of the bearing shell. So long ago I don't remember.
     
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  20. Flat Six Fix
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 987

    Flat Six Fix
    Member

    To the OP great car, get this engine back in order, no issues cruising with it, maybe not neck snappin, but a Chrysler flathead 6 engineering stock, can handle the modern road today, can the rest say that in stock form,some yes, and lots a Big NO.....
     
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  21. Did you pull the engine and crank or was this a flat-on-the-back bearing swap? I like to pull the crank, look it over carefully, measure and decide from there. If the journals are scored (probably are by now) you will continue to eat up bearings. But you know how things snowball from there...
     
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  22. 302GMC
    Joined: Dec 15, 2005
    Posts: 6,026

    302GMC
    Member
    from Idaho

    When the crank has a bearing failure, replacing bearings without purging the entire engine of residue in both oiling & cooling systems is poor practice.
    Since the Dodge engine needs everything, consider hunting up a Chrysler 265'' from a '53-'54 Windsor.
     
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  23. Flat Six Fix
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 987

    Flat Six Fix
    Member

    I agree no replacement for displacement, a 250 or a 265.
    The only issue is its 2 inches longer, that is not a huge deal, but some mods are needed.
    A later 56-59 230, is a direct swap, and is a 132 hp stock, as per the design changes to increase compression.
     
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  24. oldwood
    Joined: Mar 13, 2010
    Posts: 901

    oldwood
    Member
    from arkansas

    I've been driving my '59 Dodge Flathead for the past 2 weeks. It hadn't been on the road since 1986. I did all the preventive maints. required to start a motor that has sat for 30 yrs. I've driven it on the freeway 60-65 for 30 minutes at a time. It gets decent mileage for a big car.
     

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  25. Los_Control
    Joined: Oct 7, 2016
    Posts: 618

    Los_Control
    Member
    from TX

    I put the carb, fuel pump, dist on today. Still more to do, but getting close to starting it up. It has sat since 1978.
    Louie, that is a beautiful car, I wish you luck getting the repairs done quickly.
     

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  26. oldwood
    Joined: Mar 13, 2010
    Posts: 901

    oldwood
    Member
    from arkansas

    Warehouse Auto Parts on East Irving Blvd. has a reputable machine shop.
     
  27. I pulled engine and tore it apart put new pistons new rings new valves and springs new oil pump electric distributor new radiator ..but didnt get the crank checked ...do you think my rods could be bad to .....ive pulled that engine a few times and its getting old maybe ima have to fork out the cash and buy another crank ....and its not that easy finding a good priced flathead 6 ...i got 2 235s chevy engines and 3 216s they giving them away practically lol ...i had to learn this car quick cause no one wanted to work it but im glad i did i get mopar guys come to me i help as much as i can get them parts ..but just cant get this bearing issue done ......
     
  28. Did the bearings spin on the crank? This will displace bearing facings and possibly shell material which goes through the whole engine. I would look at a couple of rod bearings, note any bluing on the caps which indicates a lot of heat. Remote but worth a look and will be obvious.

    Do you have all the specs for the engine? Any old Motors Manual will have them. I'd hate to see you pull the whole thing apart, but sometimes you have to. The block should be cleaned and flushed of all debris. Some shops have a crank exchange service, your crank may be in stock somewhere. I had the one done in my SBC and they used my core.
     

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