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1946 Huck Brakes...one thing leads to anoter...

Discussion in 'The Antiquated' started by TraditionalToolworks, Jan 28, 2019.

  1. Cosmo49
    Joined: Jan 15, 2007
    Posts: 1,148

    Cosmo49
    Member

    I have that stuff, wheel cylinders I mean. It's yours for the shipping.
     
    Unique Rustorations likes this.
  2. TraditionalToolworks
    Joined: Jan 6, 2019
    Posts: 149

    TraditionalToolworks
    Member
    from NorCal

    I'd take pistons mostly. I have 3 cylinders that don't look too bad, but I would take them if you just want to get rid of them. I need 1-1/4", so would take anything from pistons up to a pair of 1-1/4" cylinders. I have rebuild kits without the pistons.

    I'll send you a PM.
     
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2019
  3. TraditionalToolworks
    Joined: Jan 6, 2019
    Posts: 149

    TraditionalToolworks
    Member
    from NorCal

    Well, sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do...took a break from doing my taxes to turn this piston. I have a small amount of cleanup work to do, but got 'er done.;)

    I only had a square bar of cast iron, so I dialed it in on the lathe in the 4-jaw.
    IMG_0878.JPG
    Then I proceeded to turn it down to 1.2465 (approx what other piston is).
    IMG_0883.JPG
    And I ended up with this. Left one I turned, the right one is an original. I'll chamfer the edges and do a tad of cleanup and it will be good to go.
    IMG_0892.JPG

    The cylinder seems happy, so I'm not gonna tell it any different.;)
    cylinder-seems-happy.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2019
  4. TraditionalToolworks
    Joined: Jan 6, 2019
    Posts: 149

    TraditionalToolworks
    Member
    from NorCal

    Thanks so much Cosmo, you even included the rubber covers for the sprocket adjustment. I don't think I had any of those on my fronts.o_O

    I have plenty of Huck parts now, these 2 cylinders have 4 decent pistons and the cylinders look good. I'll dump these in some purple zep and let them soak.;)

    Thanks so much Cosmo!
     
  5. Cosmo49
    Joined: Jan 15, 2007
    Posts: 1,148

    Cosmo49
    Member

    Alan, sorry they were so dirty but I wanted to get them out as I was headed into town. I used that blue caliper grease at the pivot points which was a good idea at the time but over time it sets up and becomes sticky.
     
  6. TraditionalToolworks
    Joined: Jan 6, 2019
    Posts: 149

    TraditionalToolworks
    Member
    from NorCal

    No worries whatsoever! I have them soaking in purple zep as I type, and with those 2 calipers I have all the parts I need, AFAICT. I really appreciate it.

    However, I owe you some postage, so let me know how to take care of it. I sent you a PM.
     
  7. TraditionalToolworks
    Joined: Jan 6, 2019
    Posts: 149

    TraditionalToolworks
    Member
    from NorCal

    Seeking some advice, I've had the brakes apart so long and don't seem to have a good picture.

    In this pic you can see the 3 large pins, the center which pivots and one each on the shoes.

    huck-brakes-assembling.jpg
    Here's a side view with the pin in the articulating arm and shoe, but look how long it is, seems it's missing something...

    huck-brakes-side-view.jpg
    And of course now that it's dried up, look what surfaced in the yard! Nope, not a golden goose egg, but the lost piston, I guess there was 4 after all. LOL I have to use the piston I turned though, just because...:rolleyes:

    lost-piston.jpg lost-piston.jpg
     
  8. TraditionalToolworks
    Joined: Jan 6, 2019
    Posts: 149

    TraditionalToolworks
    Member
    from NorCal

    Hah! must be springs! short stubby springs! I think I see them in a pic on the web...:rolleyes: Lock washer clip goes on the rear.:)

    huck-brakes-pins.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 27, 2019
  9. DSCF3007.JPG Yes , two short springs . pic for reference . (my '37)
     
  10. TraditionalToolworks
    Joined: Jan 6, 2019
    Posts: 149

    TraditionalToolworks
    Member
    from NorCal

    Dusty, have a question for you, what are those top pins on yours? Next to the cylinder screws? Some seem to have them, and some don't...I don't think that mine does, but the holes are there in the shoes.

    Ah, wait, maybe that is used on the rears...I'm doing fronts. Do fronts not have those pins?

    Damn your truck is cool, your doors look nice. I have a guy that is going to add some distressed lettering to mine soon with my biz name on it.
     
    Last edited: May 27, 2019
  11. Yeah , sorry , that's the rears , those are the park brake bits . But the springs are the same .
     
  12. TraditionalToolworks
    Joined: Jan 6, 2019
    Posts: 149

    TraditionalToolworks
    Member
    from NorCal

    Yes, that makes sense. Thanks!

    Always good to learn these little differences...I have a lot to learn on the 'ol gal!;)
     
    Last edited: May 28, 2019
  13. TraditionalToolworks
    Joined: Jan 6, 2019
    Posts: 149

    TraditionalToolworks
    Member
    from NorCal

    Dusty,

    Getting some things cleared up and trying to get back to the brakes on my 'ol '46, only to find out that I'm short one of those short stubby springs. Sent a PM to Cosmo to see if he has one. I can't seem to find those online ANYWERE...do you have any of those?

    I can substitute a spring for it, but those are some heft little shorties...I'm pretty sure it's laying in the weeds at my yard somewhere, just like the piston was...
     
  14. Yes TT , I will have the springs , postage from New Zealand will be a bit rough , best wait for Cosmo first .
     
    TraditionalToolworks likes this.
  15. TraditionalToolworks
    Joined: Jan 6, 2019
    Posts: 149

    TraditionalToolworks
    Member
    from NorCal

    I will do, he had a bunch of Huck parts, hopefully he has one.
     
  16. TraditionalToolworks
    Joined: Jan 6, 2019
    Posts: 149

    TraditionalToolworks
    Member
    from NorCal

    Back together and hope to get the bearings and wheels back on tomorrow and hopefully get this beast rolling again!

    huck-brakes-back-together-1.jpg huck-brakes-back-together-2.jpg
     
  17. TraditionalToolworks
    Joined: Jan 6, 2019
    Posts: 149

    TraditionalToolworks
    Member
    from NorCal

    No good deed goes unpunished! :rolleyes:

    Got the brakes wrapped up finally...got them together, bled, wheels back on...lowered off stands, and went to go start it and battery was not dead, but couldn't crank it over...:(
    brakes-back-together.jpg
    So no problem, get the charger out and hook it up...that is until I broke the selector switch off, a crappy piece of plastic none the less...Luckily I was able to buy the switch from Century Tool, who sold and/or manufactured it. In my infinite wisdom I tried to take the nut holding the broken switch off and it dropped inside...:oops: I knew I would have to open it anyway though.
    (with broken switch inside) It sat like this while I waited for the new switch. Quite a ripoff at $40, but I knew it was the right replacement.
    solar-550-battery-charger.jpg
    For the new switch, I had to drill 2 holes but they provide a template. This is a much better mount, 2 screws going through the plate, screwing into the steel case of the switch, and the shaft is also steel as well, the old one was plastic and what broke. The old case was plastic also, so this is just a better switch.
    battery-charger-new-switch.jpg
    This is what I get when I have it set on 6 volts 60 amps, and this seems correct as I have heard the generator/alternator can produce up to 8 volts when charging.
    battery-charger-new-switch-6v-60a.jpg
    I need to get back down and fire the 'ol '46 up so I can give it a test drive. Most likely tomorrow.
     
  18. TraditionalToolworks
    Joined: Jan 6, 2019
    Posts: 149

    TraditionalToolworks
    Member
    from NorCal

    I think I may have found my start issue. The starter switch seems it might be intermittent. I took the starter off and hooked it up to my battery charger, when I push the button it starts, seemed pretty reliable. The strap around the starter was kind of coming off so I bent it and it's staying on now, I put the starter back, but when I was doing so the threaded bolt that holds the positive on to the top of the starter switch (floor style), it was loose inside and the spring is very old, etc...I ordered a new switch from Jim Carter and will proceed when I get it. Pretty sure the brakes are ok to drive, but still need to get it started so I can test them.o_O

    EDIT: sure enough I found this one with a bunch of old parts, this is not the bad one on it now, this is and old one in the glove box. AFAICT there is no way to tighten up the threaded post. I'm hoping this fixes the intermittent start issue.

    starter-switch-outside.jpg starter-switch-inside.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2019
  19. TraditionalToolworks
    Joined: Jan 6, 2019
    Posts: 149

    TraditionalToolworks
    Member
    from NorCal

    Finally I got my title, registration and these tags from the California DMV.

    I had to get it weighed at a certified scale and get the VIN verified at the DMV.

    The State sent me these tag plates to go on top of the license plate.

    IMG_2300.JPG

    IMG_2299.JPG

    IMG_2298.JPG

    This plate originally was issued to the Board of Equalization.

    keroppi-license-plate.jpg
     
  20. Greg Rogers
    Joined: Oct 11, 2016
    Posts: 195

    Greg Rogers
    Member

    Good work! Those are neat plates....
     
  21. TraditionalToolworks
    Joined: Jan 6, 2019
    Posts: 149

    TraditionalToolworks
    Member
    from NorCal

    I like this one, although it's kind of beat up, I like the number as it's easy to remember.

    My title uses the BB on it (i.e., BB 5157)

    I was thinking to just cut a piece of metal to put on the back, tack weld it on there, as I like the patina it has.
     

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