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Technical 1946 Ford...replacing throwout bearing

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by jamesd1502, May 3, 2014.

  1. jamesd1502
    Joined: Jul 8, 2013
    Posts: 278

    jamesd1502
    Member
    from san diego

    Hello folks. Its time that I replace the throwout bearing on my 46 Business coupe with the stock drive train. I crawled underneath to have a look and it looked like a lot of work. What is the easiest way to accomplish this task? please and thank you...
     
  2. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,213

    F&J
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Tried greasing the fitting yet? You may get lucky, maybe not.
     
  3. jamesd1502
    Joined: Jul 8, 2013
    Posts: 278

    jamesd1502
    Member
    from san diego

     
    Last edited: May 3, 2014
  4. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,213

    F&J
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I have a trans just removed,out in the shop. i will look at it in the AM, to see if the fitting feeds the bearing itself, as well as the surface that it slides on. I am pretty sure the fitting does feed the bearing too. There is a inspection plate on the rear top half of the bell, to get at it.
     
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  5. Most older bearings had a grease fitting on the bearing itself.
     
  6. 29AVEE8
    Joined: Jun 28, 2008
    Posts: 1,384

    29AVEE8
    Member

    If you are going to replace the release bearing on a torque-tube ford you have the luxury of deciding on dropping the rear end and trans or pulling the engine. I always vote for dropping the rear end and trans.
     
  7. Fortyfordguy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2002
    Posts: 644

    Fortyfordguy
    Member

    Early Fords (32-34) generally had a greaseable bearing....via a small grease cap on the inspection cover thru a short hose to the bearing. Eventually the did away with that method and went to the pre-lubricated sealed release bearing. When these finally failed you had to remove the trans to get access to the bearing for replacement. We sell the Fed-Mogul brand on this part....it's an item you don't want to have replace again due to a cheap bearing failing.
     
  8. jamesd1502
    Joined: Jul 8, 2013
    Posts: 278

    jamesd1502
    Member
    from san diego

    So, I'm leaning towards removing the engine to access the throw out bearing for replacement?!?
     
  9. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 2,055

    edwardlloyd
    Member
    from Germany

    And while it's out you may as well clean everything up, check your clutch plate for wear etc.
     
  10. 49worktruck
    Joined: Jun 23, 2010
    Posts: 28

    49worktruck
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I pulled the rad and that gave me enough room to move the motor forward and slip the bearing over the input shaft. Small block chevy to a stock '46 trans.
     
  11. Kevin Lee
    Joined: Nov 12, 2001
    Posts: 7,401

    Kevin Lee
    Super Moderator
    Staff Member

    ...which isn't going to happen with a stock drivetrain in an early Ford. Pull the engine – you could do it in an evening if you have everything lined out. No sweat.
     
  12. hotrod40coupe
    Joined: Apr 8, 2007
    Posts: 2,559

    hotrod40coupe
    Member

    Pulling the rear end isn't as bad as it sounds. You have to jack the car up enough to allow the spring to clear the cross member. You just need to move it enough to disconnect the u-joint at the transmission.
     
  13. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 6,462

    19Fordy
    Member

    First, after you jack up the car, remove the wheels if you decide to pull the rear end.
     
  14. jamesd1502
    Joined: Jul 8, 2013
    Posts: 278

    jamesd1502
    Member
    from san diego

    Yea. I'm def pulling the engine and not removing the rear end. As funny or silly as this may sound, I have one bolt that I can not fit a sockit or wrench because the bolt head is too close to the cuplar wall. I've tried everything for a few hours now and I'm over it. Haha. Thanks for the input fellas.
     
  15. Kevin Lee
    Joined: Nov 12, 2001
    Posts: 7,401

    Kevin Lee
    Super Moderator
    Staff Member

    Yes. Thinking most here in the "pull the rear end" camp just aren't familiar with your setup. For instance, how were you planning to deal with the brake line? E-brake cable? And supporting the engine once the transmission is out? (Which you won't be able to do anyway since the crossmember has it trapped)

    Drain fluids,remove hood, disconnect radiator hoses, coil wire, oil pressure and temp, etc., pull radiator, go after the bellhousing bolts, yank the engine and leave the trans hanging by the TT and mounts. Full access to the throwout bearing and all of the bits then. Remove clutch and pressure plate to replace the pilot while you have the engine out.

    Slap it all back together in reverse. Right?
     
  16. Kevin Lee
    Joined: Nov 12, 2001
    Posts: 7,401

    Kevin Lee
    Super Moderator
    Staff Member

    Also... exhaust and starter cable.
     

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