i finally got the 46 coupe down to bare metal sanded most of it with 80 grit. it is probably going to sit a whiel befor any paint or body work. fortunately ot needs very little body work its really straight and solid. i live in colorado so its pretty drt. my question is i would like to put it in primer whiel it is sitting any recommendations on this would be helpful. it may be 6 months or longer whiel i work on the chasis.
We used to give the bare metal a light coat of zinc chromate to keep it from rusting. Don't know if it's still available. Tom
If it's dry in colorado, then I wouldn't worry about it. If you got it down to bare metal it'll still be bare in 6 months. Or you could have it sealed and do body work over that.
I'm in Colorado and just did the spray can primer route until time permitted to do final bodywork. You know how it is out here. Weather could change any minute and it's just not worth chancing it with bare metal.
i agree what rattle can primer worked for you? i was thinking dupli color black sandable primer should be easy to get back off
not sure what that is or how it works. i looked on their websitr. has anyone had experience with this product? how did you use it and what were the results?
from the website. or pay a fortune through radrides and buy their relabeled stuff. I bought a shitty HF spray gun and spray it up. every so often I spray more on. remove it with soap and water and paint.
well interesting but i am thinking a rattle can primer as temporary protection then sand it off once paint and body work begin. this car needs very little body work evven though colorado is very dry i dont want to risk rust as it was a lot of work to remove the paint and surface rust to begin with. i would probably use a spray gun and good epoxy peimer but garage is attached to house if you know what i mean
NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Rattle can primer is mostly solvent and propelent, it offers very little actual rust protection. Too, it has marginal adheasion ,and shouldn't be painted over. Today, given that epoxy primer no longer contains any heavy metals by law, I'd step up to a full urethane primer. At least you get the advanced technology of the urethane resins. Be sure to buy a good spray mask and filters " Do not reach greedily for the Kool-Aid "
The best thing you can do to protect your car is to put ppg DP epoxy primer with 401 catalist. You can do your body work over it. DP primer comes in many colors 90-black, 48-white, 60-blue, 40-red and there is a gray too. 1. Bare metal follow by metal prep. 2. DP Primer- to prevent surface rust. 3. Body work 4. urethane Primer - to fill and block sanding Just my .02 cents along with my 40 yrs in the body trade.
Go to Home Depot and pick up a gallon of Metal etch and primer (Ospho type stuff) it is acid based and will keep the metal from rusting for a long time if you don't touch it. I did a 46 Ford about 2 years ago that has a lot of bare metal on it, and I did my Son's VW about the same time, and neither has gotten a hint of rust back on it, and we live in probably the most humid State around. I use a scotchbrite pad to scrub a small section with the etcher, then wipe it immediately off with a clean cotton cloth. Use rubber gloves and eye protection. It will save you having to remove any primer when you get back on the car. Don
No, it is a one step phosphoric acid based liquid. You put it on metal and it cleans any surface rust off, then it leaves a protective coating that will keep rust from coming back. It is greenish in color. If you just put it on with a scotchbrite pad and don't wipe it back off it puts a white powdery coating on the steel, but if you don't let it dry and wipe it back off immediately with a cloth it just leaves a dull metal finish. Like I mentioned, I completely removed all the surface rust from the bare areas on a 46 Ford tudor we have at least 2 years ago and it has been sitting in our shop all that time with no rust coming back, same with the VW. Home Depot carries it in the paint dept and it is only about $ 15 a gallon. I think the formal name is something like Metal prep and prime, but I can get you the correct name off my container. BTW, you might want to DA the body with something smoother than the 80 grit, for some reason the coarser the finish the faster it rusts. I think the little "hills and peaks" that stick up cause it to do that for some reason. Don
Look on Eastwood paints they have stuff called shark hide, I did a whole truck in that .66 ford was taken down to bare metal then I wiped that stuff on and it sealed great left it outside for 8 months in ct and never rusted drove in rain and that stuff is amazing it's made for the bottom od boats that are steel or aluminum.I sold truck and the guy had no problem painting it.
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